176 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 9 8 7 6 rr ,5 o k,") •o 1'-.- co co • o I0 od !, o o © o o LL LL • I• LL i • • • LL LL • • C• oY 0 - © - o o @ - _ o(D¸ ¸ ¸(D - I x I xlxl xlxlx I x i x Ix Ix Ix Ix lx
RISK-BEARING SUBSTANCES IN COSMETICS 177 FAT FRACTION DMF-FRACTION DCM-FRACTION LAKE-FRACTION PIGMENT FRACTION Fraction c is the FAT FRACTION. To fraction d an equal volume of water is added. It contains colours. Purify by adsorbing the colours on Polyamid powder 1 g (MN-SC6, Machery and Nagel). Wash with 2 x 10 ml water and 2 x 10 ml methanol in a microcolumn. Elute colours with 25 ml of (methanol-conc. ammonia, 95/5 vol./vol.) This is the DMF-FRACTION, which is the main fraction of the colours in the lipstick. Concentrate and use the extract for tlc. In some instances the Polyamid powder might still be coloured. Elute with 25 ml dichloromethane. Concentrate. This is the DCM-FRACTION, which contains unsulphonated colours. The residue b contains residual lakes and pigments. Heat with 25 ml of (methanolammonia conc., 95/5 vol). Filter. Concentrate the flitrate. This is the LAKE-FRAC- TION. The residue still contains a part of the lakes and also the inorganic pigments. The residue is ashed to remove organic matter. The PIGMENT FRACTION is then obtained. Analytical scheme for the extracted fractions FAT FRACTION: Discard. DMF-FRACTION: Apply tlc with the systems of Figs 1 and 2(a). The xanthene colours 45370 and 45380 are well identified. The yellow colour 19140 and the blue 42090 should be confirmed by the system of Fig. 2(c). The difficult separation of 15980 and 15985 (Orange GGN and Sunset yellow) can only be done by the system in Fig. 2(d). The other orange colours are well identified by the systems of Fig. 2(a) and (b). DCM FRACTION: These unsulphonated colours are identified with the tlc system of Fig. 2(e). LAKE FRACTION: As under DMF FRACTION. PIGMENT FRACTION: In most instances TiO2, titanated micas and iron oxides will be present. Identify as described under the eye make-up colours earlier.
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)



























































