2O 3O 4O 5O 6O 7O 8O 9O RISK-BEARING SUBSTANCES IN COSMETICS Recorded Integrated retention peak areas times in seconds 119 235055 3 II 82022 486 478216 881 10675 1097 142462 1204 61066 1508 14721 From the recorded retention times the following compounds are identified: PI2 PII Aceton Dichl. meth. CYCL. HEX. Ethonol i Propan ol The correction factors for that day were,. PI2 = I. 53 PII = 1.55 Act: 0-82 DCM: I' I0 EtOH: 0-78 i PrOH = O- 87 205 • ecorded retentio times in seconds , 4.8E 881 1097 1204 1508 Figure 13. Example of the glc analysis of a hairspray aerosol sample no. 34. The weight per cent were calculated with the formula % = (Ax. Fx/As). (s/m). 100 % in which Ax = integrated peak area of compound 1 Fx --= correction factor of compound 1 A s = integrated peak area of Cyclohexane s = weight in grams of Cyclohexane m = weight in grams of the sampled mixture. The following data were obtained: Propellant 12 .... 35.5 % Propellant 11 .... 12.7 % Acetone .... 39.3 % Dichloromethane .. 1.2 % Ethanol .... 4.9 % isoPropanol .... 1.3 % For the purpose of analytical control, we determined the non- volatile residue by gravimetric analysis and found--Residue .. 1.9 % Total found ................ 96.8 % This sum of per cent differs less than 5% from the 100•o, so the analysis is acceptable.

206 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Propellant 11 (Trichlorofluoromethane) has a boiling 75% point of 23.8øC. The histogram profile shows clearly that this compound is the most important propellant/solvent in hairspray aerosols. Average 50% % between 30 and 60% in 4 samples more than 80%! 25% 12 is an important propellant in hairspray aerosols. Propellant 75% Found in 80% of the samples average 20-25%. (Dichlor Dimeth. ylether: Two samples contain dimethylether -•50% which is only recently introduced as a prope!lant. Et OH --.- 75% --- 50% --- 25% I1 .•75% ,•l,11111111111•,1111111111 I,,,lll•,•11! •111 DCM + MChl I max. 25% Ethanol is an important solvent. Almost all samples contain ethanol at a level of 10%. Some samples contain 25%, but higher levels do not OCCUr. Methanol. Small amounts (less than 0.5%) are found in 45% of the samples, probably as a denaturant of ethanol or isopropanol. Dichloromethane + methylchloroform (DCM+MChl): These chlorinated solvents are used instead of ethanol to lower the price of the hairspray aerosol. The Dutch Cosmetic Bill states a maximum of 25%. Two samples contain more, namely 42.8% and 34.2%. A quarter of our samples do not contain chlorinated solvents. Hydrocarbons (Propane+nButane+iButane) are used • prop• in 25% of the samples. In one sample even more than 40%, but the average % is 20%. Inflammable compounos (Sum of hydrocarbons- dimethylether-aceton-methanol-ethanol-isopropanol). Only four samples exceed the 45% inflammable compound which is accepted by aerosol technologists as an upper limit for the fire safety of aerosols. Pro + iBu + nBu .• Inflammable compound 75% ( Branbare Staffen) , • Figure 14. Histograms of the results: total analysis of propellants and solvents of hairspray aerosols (60 samples). 75% 50% 25%