86 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table VI % Reduction in SFL's by Full Half-Face Average of 3 Days Moisturizers Time after No Application 0 ML MF L Water Treatment 3hr 22 13 7 5 5 2 6 hr 20 11 6 4 4 2 10 hr 5 3 1 0 1 1 Figure 3 shows that overall, as with individual areas, each comparison agent displayed a similar progression through time, even though the extent of any one agent's results dif- fered from those of other treatments. DISCUSSION Our goal was to develop direct visual assessment of moisturizer effect on superficial facial lines into a quantitative and methodologically objective technique. The present study with its five series, six comparison treatments, annd four component areas of the face to be evaluated was necessarily a somewhat complex one. However, this com- plexity permitted the comprehensive test of reproducibility and sensitivity required for a new method of evaluation. A satisfactory level of reproducibility was ascertained through three kinds of tests in the usual static situation of baseline values (by facial area and full half-face, by series, by observer), and through the more rigorous test of seeking comparable patterns in a dy- namic situation (i.e., comparability of the changes produced by the same agent in four separate series). 10 2O 30 0 NO TREATMENT LOTION N!01 LM MF ,TION •L M I I .... I 3 6 10 HOURS AFTER APPLICATION Figure 3. Per cent reduction in superficial facial lines for the full half-face. Average values for three days of application, 20 subjects

TOPICAL MOISTURIZERS 87 This confirmation of reproducibility has several implications for practical investiga- tional work. It means that the visual appraisals of trained observers can be reliably quantified that SFL's can be measured and their distribution by facial area determined that the values for SFL's can remain relatively stable in the absence of treatment or of climatic change and that these values change consistently in response to a particular treatment. Sensitivity of the method was examined through comparison of the effects of different treatments. The blinded judges were able to discriminate among the six treatments, and to define their effects by facial area. As a particular test of sensitivity, a coherent pattern could be discerned even among the lesser results from no treatment, water, and the two moisturizers less effective in this study. Starting with the lowest percentage of reductions (i.e., improvement) in SFL's after no treatment, there was then slightly more improvement fbr water and one moisturizer, followed by somewhat more improve- 0 •, z 20 z• •o ,"•o = u. 30 WATER 40 I I I I 0 1/2 I 11/2 2 HOURS AFTER APPLICATION Figure 4. Determination of the time of onset of action. Per cent reduction in superficial facial lines for the eye and cheek areas. Average values for ten subjects