398 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Cosolvent 369 Coupling 369 Cumulative surfactant treatments 351 Cuticle damage, 59 Cytological analyses, 249 Decrement function 199 Deodorant 159 Depigmenting 361 Dermatitis 45 Design, Protocol 167 Desorption 351 Desquamation 249 Detergent synthetic preparations, 147 Dielectic constant 385 1,4 Dioxane determination of, 97 present in shampoos, 97 gas chromatographic determination, 97 Diperisophtahalic acid 59 Di-peptides 35 Direct injection 97 Double-blind trial 159 Dyes enhancement of, 19 Elasticity modulous 19 Electrical impedance 249 Enzymatic coloring, 273 oxidation, 273 hair waving, 273 nutralization, 273 Emulsions o/w emulsions, 285 characterization of, 285 Erythema 249 Ethanol 159 Exercise 199 Experimental design 235 Extraction of surfactants, 1 Fatigue Yoshitake symptoms of fatigue scale, 199 FDA guidelines, 167 Flora changes in resident flora, 147 bacterial, 147, 159 Fluorescamine labeling, 35 F!uorescamine-reactive peptides 35 Fluorescent 351 Forest-plus fragrance, alertness/relaxation, 199 Friction 249 Gas chromatography 1,4 dioxane analysis, 97 Gels formation of, 19 structural changes, 19 rheological characterization of, 19 non-theological test result, 19 methods to liquify sP, 19 aqueous, formation of, 19 Gel filtration of peptides, 35 Gelling compositions, polymer/surfactant pair structures, polymer/surfactant systems, 19 G-inovou testing 385 I•-glucuronidase 133 Hair 59, 351 bleach treatment of, 87 cationic polymer, adsorption of, 87 polyquaternium-10, adsorption of, 87 color, evaluation of, 45 conditioning treatments, 351 damage, 59 fibers, 59 lightness, 273 waving, enzymatic, 273 volume, 341 texture, 341 body assessment, 341 cuticle damage, 59 human, 59 bending relaxation, properties of, 105 keratin, 35 Itair Coloring 273 permanent, 45 semi-permanent, 45 temporary, 45 shampoo stability, 45 Hair Tresses: 35 treatments of, with surfactants, 1 with dyes, 1 adsorption and removal of protein/peptides, 35 Handwashing 283 Humidity absolute, 69 relative, 69 Itydration 379 Hydrogen peroxide 45,273 Hydroxyproline assay 35 Itydroxyproline-containing acids 35 Image analysis 249, 385 Infrared spectroscopic studies, 327 Inhibition 133 Instrument 283 Instrumental techniques 249 Interaction polymer-surfactant, 19 In vitro iritancy test, 71 absorption of butylated hydroxyanisole, 00 In-vivo 159 irritancy methods, 71 assessment of skin elasticity, 211 skin testing methods, 385 Irritancy index development of, 71 Irritation skin, predictors of, 71 Isobutanol internal standard 97 Isothiuronium groups in making cosmetic treatments more durable, 1 Isothiuronium moity in dyes and surfactants, 1 Keratin fibers chemical modification of, 1 Kojic acid 361 Linoleic acid 235

SUBJECT INDEX 399 Linoleic acid kinetics of oxidation, 285 in o/w emulsions, 285 in microemulsions, 285 Lipid measurement of deposition on skin, 299 deposition from bath oils, 299 Liposomes unilamellar, 71 Lipstick 369 Malodor 133, 159 Measurement lipid deposition on skin, 299 use of baseline, 1 of solids by volume, 223 Medulla 59 Melanocyte 361 Metal zeolites, 45 Methylene blue absorption 385 Miceliar solutions preparation, 285 characterization of, 285 Microemulsion 235 preparation of, 285 characterization of, 285 Midbrain reticular area 199 Muguet 000 Multitreatment studies 167 MW characterization of peptides, 35 NASA TLX 199 Nutralization enzymatic, 273 Odor 133, 159 body, 159 Oils comparison of bath oils, 299 Olfaction 199 Organic phosphate determination of, 71 Oxidases 273 Oxidation 59 enzymatic, 273 linoleic acid in emulsions and micellar solutions, 285 dyes, hair colorants, 45 Oxidative catalyst development of safety hair colorants, 45 silver zeolite, as, 45 Oxygen uptake measurements of, 285 Packed column 1,4 dioxanne analysis, 97 Parameter 369 Particle beds solid, 223 vibrated, mixing & segregation process, 223 Particle size 235 Peppermint 199 Peptides fluorescent derivatization of, 35 Percent sweat reduction 167 Perfume 159 Permanent waving 273 Ph effects on skin, 147 determination, 147 changes in skin pH, 147 skin surface, 159 skin, 327 Phenolic compounds as coupler in oxidative dyes, 000 Phospholipid liposomes 71 Photoaging 379 Placebo 159 Plant extracts as coupler source, 45 Polarity 369 Polymers gelling efficiency, 1 tendencies of, 19 cationic celluosic, 19 surfactant systems, gelling structures, 19 Polyquaternium-10 (UCARE Polymer JR 4OO) 87 adsorption of, 87 colloid titration of, 87 determination of, 87 equivalent weight, 87 hair adsorbency, 87 Profilometry 249 Propilometric 385 Purification procedures 351 Rapid, simple 97 Rheology 19 Sandiewood 199 Scale Thackray Mood Scale, 199 Stanford Sleepiness Scale, 199 Segregation of solids by vibration, 223 Self oxidation of linoleic acid, 285 $ilver-zeolite as oxidative catalyst, 45 in hair coloring, 45 Silver-ions 45 Skin visual grading, 283 color, 283 brightness, 283 erythema, 283 dryness, 283 irritation, predictors, 71 damage, 105 capacitance studies, 327 physical properties, measurement, 211 in vitro absorption of BHA, 335 elasticity, in vivo, 211 viscoelastic properties, 211 changes, 249 during aging process, 211 damage, surfact induced, 105 erythema index, 105 properties, characterization, 385 roughness, 385 measurement by image analysis, 385 flora, determination of the bacterial skin flora, 147 surface pH, 159 Soap 249 mildness, 283 Sodium Laureth 3 sulfate-as test surfactant, 105