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j. Cosmet. sci., 49, 13-22 (January/February 1998) Analysis of the damaged components of permed hair using biochemical technique R. KON, A. NAKAMURA, N. HIRABAYASHI, and K. TAKEUCHI, Analytical Research Center, Lion Corp., Hirai 7-13-12, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo 132, Japan. Accepted for publication September 30, •997. Presented at the 38th Scientific Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan, Osaka, June 18, 1996. Synopsis We have developed a new method of fractionating hair components in order to analyze the damaged components and the degree of damage due to perming. We found that the amount of constituent proteins extracted by an anionic surfactant with reductant was influenced by the concentration of the reductant. Using this method, the matrix and the microfibril protein could be easily separated and quantified. Applying this method to the analysis of individual hairs, we found a significant decrease in the "intact" microfibril protein on the tip end of permed hair. INTRODUCTION Many cosmetic investigators are studying ways to evaluate the degree of hair damage or to develop anti-damaging products, but hair is a complex organization and the damage can first be seen at the hair's tip, which may have been on the head 2-3 years and damaged by cumulative cosmetic behavior. Therefore, efforts to confirm the correlation between damage and cause are very difficult. It has been reported that hair is damaged by various causes such as sunlight (1), grooming (shampooing, drying, brushing, and combing) (2), and cosmetic treatments (perming, dyeing, and bleaching) (3). Robbins concluded that the cause of hair damage is the sum of all grooming practices (rubbing, stretching, and washing), while sunlight or chemical processing treatments make the hair more susceptible to such damaging actions (4). However, these studies mainly dealt with mechanical properties or morphological changes such as decreasing cuticle layers, scale lift, and split ends, examined by electron microscopy. A few investigators have studied the alteration of the total amino acids or lipid compositions (5,6). The proteins of hair constitute 80% or more of the total mass, but studying these proteins is difficult because of their insolubility due to the disulfide-bonded polymeric structure. Consequently, a few investigations were reported (7,8), but it is still unknown 13