64 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Another paradigm involves damaging the barrier or activating the immune system and then applying the test agent under a variety of conditions including a semi-occlusive patch. In one approach, barrier damage is achieved by creating a scratch with a needle or tape stripping to a pre- determined degree of T.EW.L.. In the latter case, both reduction in the rate of barrier repair as well the degree of erythema generated are direct indications of the potential for irritation by the test agent. In both cases, resolution of lower level irritants is easily achieved due to the ability of the agent or entire formula to enter into the viable epidermis. In another approach, immune system activation is achieved by pre-treafing with a defined minor irritant. Results: In the results presented below a traditional oil in water emulsion is compared with saline in three different measures. With traditional test methods, the oil in water emulsion is indistinguishable from saline. In the more sensitive tests, these two materials are resolved. Scadfication • Sal•ne O. i •o'w emu sion ß -•--•', - 0.2 24 Figure I illustrates the results of application of the test material to lightly searifled skin. In this procedure a small gauge needle is drawn across the Conclusion: This more rigorous approach to testing for product comfort has proven to be highly effective and necessary for identifying consumer products that may not be satisfactory by today's extremely stringent level of acceptance. It is a reliable way to help assure consumer satisfaction with greater certainty. skin surface to break the barrier. the surface is then treated with the test material in a semi-occluded patch and evaluated every 24 hours for a total of 72 hours.

PREPRINTS OF THE 1997 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 65 o8 0.2 Strip and Patch 24 hours 48 hours 72 hours Time (hours) Barrier Functions ,,,. 40 ,m "' 20 • ,o •. o -lO -2o -3o Saline o/w emulsion Figures 2 and 3 demonstrate the effect of the same two materials when applied to skin that was tape stripped until the rate of transepidermal water loss reached approximately 18gtmsq/hr. In this case the degree of redness is slightly increased and the rate of barrier repair is decreased due to the presence of the emulsion. SUBSTANTIATION OF CONDITIONING CLAIMS Martha Tate, A! Gabbiane!!i, and Michael Prendergast Detergents and Personal Care, Rh•ne-Poulenc, Inc., Prospect Plains Road, Cranbury, NJ 08512 Conditioning claims are made for a variety of hair products, including shampoos, conditioners, hair color products, and penns and relaxers. Claims can concern many hair attributes, and may include statements of conditioning, combing feel, softness, shine, or resistance to damage and reduction of split ends. Substantiation of claims is specific to the claim and the product. The purpose of this paper is to review types of claims, and to provide specific examples of claims and appropriate substantiation methods. Claims substantiation is done by finished goods companies to satisfy the legal requirement that all claims must be true and accurate. The practical purpose of substantiation is two-fold: 1) substantiation supports the products, when questioned, and 2) the outcomes of testing can assist in product development. Substantiation may be demanded by several sources, including television networks,