54 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ß o o o ß _ _ Fig. I Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 This supports a similar conclusion made by Laufer & Dikstein (1). The levels of sebum on the other hand, although they were similar between the dry and normal groups, showed a considerably higher level in the oily group. The sebum level of the combination skin group was intermediate between the drylnormal and oily groups. In a further study, 20 women selected at random, wexe asked to apply a light moisturizcr to just one side of the face following baseline measurements of sebum and moisture from both sides of the face. Two and six hours later (i.e. 4 and 8 hours after cleansing) panelists returned to the laboratory and following equilibration, sebum and moisture measurements were repeated. On the side of the face without moisturizcr, the skin moisture level stayed relatively constant. On the other hand, the skin surface sebum level increased somewhat during the day (fig. 5-7) at all sites measured. The t-zone pattern remained throughout the study with the forehead and chin levels being higher than those for the cheek and jawline. It was also noted, on an individual basis, that the t•rception of oiliness or dryness was not related to the actual level of sebum detected instrumentally. Indeed some subjects in the oily groups had sebum levels no higher than some subjects claiming to have dry skin. Apparently a high oil level for one l•rson would not be excessive for someone else. This might explain a certain degree of incorrect selection by consumers, when faced with an unfamiliar product. 2 Houm aftir deen-tng loo.oo Ioo.oo 14o.oo , ,,. o.oo 4 Hours eliir clelnMno 8 Hour• eftiT cleanling Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Application of a light moisturizer in the morning increased the average moisture level 2 hours later by 31% (fig.'s 8-9). Some of this increase in moisturization occurred at all facial sites. After a further 4 hours this moisture level had decreased somewhat, but was still 14% above the baseline levels (fig. 10). However, as with the untreated side, the sebum levels continued to increase throughout the day. These dala suggest that the moisturizcr effect is indei•ndent of the level of sebum. Bae•llne 2 Hounl • Hounl before rniX•lJdZer aftlr molMudzlng IMr molMudzlng lOO.oo Ioo.oo IOO.OO 1,1o.oo .... i!iil : • .... ::-i :'ii: !:i• 1: •.• .... : ß .•, 20.OO -.• mOO • [: 20.(]0 O.OO '"' O.OO O.OO Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10

PREPRINTS OF THE 1997 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 55 It is concluded that the perception of skin type is due more to variation in surface oil than a variation in moisture level. In addition, the lack of correlation between moisture and sebum levels suggest that sebum may not be serving as a defense against skin dehydration and a high level of sebum does not influence the effect of a light moisturizer. These results also suggest that individual perception of skin type may not always result in correct product usage. 1. Laufer A. & Dikstein, $., Cosmetics & Toiletries, 111, 91-98, 1996 MODULATION OF INFLAMMATORY REACTION IN THE SKIN: A NEW APPROACH IN THE TREATMENT OF PREMATURE AGING T. Mammone, K. Marenus, E. Pelle, D. Maes Esteb Lauder Laboratories, Melville, NY 11747 Abstract: The human skin is permanently challenged by prooxidative events generated exogeneously by the environment (UV light, smoke), and endogenously by the reaction of the skin's own immune reaction: inflammatory reactions. A significant amount of research has been done over the past years, showing the interest of an anti-oxidant therapy to control the pace of the premature aging process. However, very little work has been done so far to evaluate the activity a topical treatment containing anti-inflammatory compounds in protecting the skin from the damages resulting from the over reaction of the immune system. We propose to review the role played by the inflammatory reactions in the development of the premature aging process, and then to present the available technologies which allows to reduce significantly the progress of inflammatory reactions in the skin. Introduction: The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental insults that challenge it's integrity and function. These insults are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also precipitate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction that also if in excess will degrade and atrophy the tissue. Contributing to this wasting induced by the insult is the poor repair function observed in chronically aged skin that limits the replacement of extracellular matrix and cells. We theorize that the struggle between anabolic and catabolic forces will shift with increasing age and result in a more catabolic nature. Therefore the tissue will degrade both from external and internal drives. The cosmetic appearance of aging skin is due to these forces. Methods: Antioxidant ability was measured using a liposome oxidation method. Liposomes composed of phosphatidylcholine are irradiated with UVB or UVA light from Philips FS40 bulbs. In vitro Assays: Arachidonic acid release was monitored by prelabeling for 24 hours followed washing free unincorporated label. After UV irradiation samples of media are counted in scintillation counter. Interleukin-lalpha and TNF-alpha release are measured using commercial available ELISA kits on supernatants from culture media. Collagenase activity was measured using N-2,4 dinitrophenyl-pro-leu- gly-leu-trp-ala-D-ard-amide. This substrate is converted to a fluorescent product which is measured at 360 nm after excitation with 280 nm (1). Elastase activity was measured using the fluorescent substrate N- methyoxysuccinyl-ala-ala-pro-val-amido-4-methyl coumarin (2). Human leukocyte elastase (Sigma Co.) was used in reaction. Enzyme reaction was monitor using fluorescent excitation at 370 nm and emission at 470 nm. Results: UV irradiation of both human skin and artificial skin grown in the lab demonstrated increased levels of lipid peroxidized. Figure 1 shows that 100 mJ/cm2 of UVB increased the amounts of TBA reactive material (lipid peroxides) over time in human skin models. This increased lipid peroxidation was o reduced if skin models were pre- and post- UVB treated with antioxidant mixture of 1 'A vitamin E and 1% vitamin C.