ABSTRACTS 195 useful or better in 52 (83.9%) out of 62 subjects. Accordingly, we concluded that BRcan be used in the clinical treatment of liver spot. Quantitative Method of Wrinkle Depth Using Standard Scale Koichim Tanaura, Yuri Okano, Haruyuki Okarnura, Hitoshi Masaki Kobe Research Lab., NOEVIR Co., Ltd. Generally, women recognize aging with the appearance of wrinkles at the comer of the eyes or around the mouth. Thus one of the essential aims of cosmetics is the development of substances for wrinkle repair In the process of developing cosmetics for this purpose, it is essential to establish a highly reproducible method for determining wrinkle depth. Several methods exist for this purpose, which include 3 dimensional analysis by laser light, image analysis, and conventional scoring. All of these methods use image analysis to determine wrinkle depth. However, each of these methods produce different results depending upon the way the image is obtained and the type of analysis used. We thus tried to establish a new evaluation method which uses image analysis in combination with a standard scale. This study shows that our method is highly reproducible and was very suitable on evaluation of the wrinkle depth. Properties of the Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate (FA) Copolymers and Their Applications for Cosmetics II --Preventing Effect against Makeup Deterioration in Case of Applying to Foundations-- Koji Nagashima, Tatsuhiko Watanabe, Masamichi Morita, Kazuo Shimamoto, Yasuo Sugawara RD Department No.2, Chemical Division, Daikin Industries, Ltd., Yao R&D Laboratories, Nihon Kolmar Co. Ltd. We have created a"long lasting" makeup foundation by applying two types ofperfluoroalkylethyl acrylate (FA) copolymers. The two FA copolymers are a hybrid polymer which includes hydrophobiccomonomers and a SR polymer which includes hydmphilic comonomers. The properties of these FA copolymers have already been discussed in our first report. In this report, FA copolymers were applied to the surface of cosmetic powders. Makeup foundation containing these powders was tested for surface deterioration. Test results showed that the foundation containing hybrid polymer treated powders had a higher tolerance against makeup deterioration than the one containing silicone treated powders. Moreover, the foundation containing powders treated by both hybrid and SR polymers demonstrated an even higher tolerance. These results indicated that applying both types of FA copolymer treatment at the same time prevents makeup deterioration when both sweat and sebum are present on the skin. The Effect of Fragrance on Protease Activation in Stratum Comeurn Toyomasa Ishitoya, Masanori Okada Products R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. Subjects were given a sleep deprivation as a stress to check the differences between activation of protease (trypsin) in stratum corneum with and without fragrance in sleeping time. Stratum comeum were collected from the inner upper arm by the tape stripping method. PeptidyI-MCA was added to them and incubated for 2h at 37øC to measure the fluorescent light of produced MCA. This result showed that the pratease activation with fragrance was significantly higher than one without. We thought it would be possible that the stress alleviation effect and refreshing sleep caused by this pleasant fragrance gave good influences on the homeostatic mechanisms. Volume 35, No. 2, 2001 Ductility and Adhesion Properties of Base Make-Up Products Depend on the Character of Powder Bed Hajime Hotta Skin Care Products Research Laboratories., Kao Corporation The body pigments that construct the framework of powder make-up cosmetics like foundation play a very important role for designing the characteristic of the product. The goodness of the characteristic for use and use feelings, e.g. attaching to smoother on the skin, good adhesion properties, and a moist feelingis a basic and important element for the pleasantness of the powder make-up cosmetics. The characteristic obtained to the body pigments greatly exerts the influence on use and use feelings. The malleability, the ductility, and the adhesion properties that are the main factor for use are greatly according to the bulk characteristic of powder bed. As for powder, the shape, the size, and the character are different as an individual particle. On the other hand the malleability, the adhesion, the ductility, and the filling, etc. are shown as powder bed to which particles gathered. The use of the powder make-up cosmetics was caught from the point of the powder characteristic. Therefore it was an appearing case according to the combination of powder that the size and shape are different as for the peculiar use and function. At first the flowability and the friction characteristic of the inorganic boards powder spherical fine powder composite systems were introduced. And next the adhesion and the optical function of the mono dispersed fine powder / spherical powder composite systems were introduced including the evaluation technique.

196 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Controlling Surfactant - Layer Curvature and Its pigmentation of human skin through activation of Application to Cubic - Phase - Based Emulsion melanogenesis and the inhibition of the inflammation- Noriko Kanei*, HironobuKunieda** related reactions such as production of superoxide Fragrance Laboratory, Soda Aromatic Co. Ltd.*, anion and lipid peroxide. These data indicated that Division of Artificial Environmental and Systems, RKG had lasting effects for the inhibition of Graduate School of Engineering, melanogenesis and various melanogenic factors aRer Yokohama National University** the degradation in the skin. Emulsion type is highly related to the phase behavior of surfactant in water and oil. When suffactant forms an aqueous micelie, O/W emulsion is formed. In case that suffactant forms a reverse micelie, W/O emulsion is produced. The O/W emulsion changes to W/O emulsion at HLB temperature or PIT in awater / polyoxyethylene nonionic suffactant /oil system at which the suffactant - layer curvature is zero and a bicontinuous micro - emulsion coexists with excess water and oil. The effect of type of added oil on the HLB temperature is highly related to the oil influence on the surfactant - layer curvature. We discuss about the penetration or swelling effect of oil or perfume on the suffactant - layer curvature when oil is solubilized in the surfactinet aggregates. The correlation between the I-ILB temperature and the oil effect on the surfactant - layer curvature is also described. When hydrocarbon oil, especially, high - molecular - weight oil is used, the surfactant - layer curvature changes to be more positive. Hence, in the presence of the oil, a discontinuous micellar cubic phase is produced. When excess oil is dispersed in the cubic phase, a highly viscous and gel - like cubic - phase - based emulsion is produced. Lasting Effect of Raspberry Ketone Glucoside on Whitening Tomohiro Yokota*, Tsuyoshi Ikemoto*, Minoru Sasaki**, Toshio Horikoshi** Cosmetics Laboratory*, Basic Research Laboratory**, Kanebo Ltd. Tyrosinase is well known as a key enzyme responsible for the production of melanin in melanocytes. It is also known that inflammatory reactions such as active oxygen species and melanogenic factors in the skin are induced by UV irradiation. The keys to suppress melanin synthesis are considered to be not only the inhibition of tyrosinase activity but also that of inflammatory reactions. Raspberry ketone glucoside (RKG) in raspberry fruit (Rubus ideaeus) had the inhibitory effect on the melanin synthesis. As a result of an investigation with the glycosides that have similar structure of RKG at its glycoside moieties and alkyl chain, the structure of RKG was found to be suitable as an inhibitory factor on melanogenesis. RKG released raspberry ketone (RK) gradually at•er the reaction with both homogenated and desquarnated cells of the stratum comeum. In addition to the inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis, RK also showed remarkable functions such as the scavenge of nitric oxide (NO) which was considered to induce Effect of Odors on Creative Thinking Sakura Inoue, Norihiro Araki, Satoshi Kimura Fundamental Technology Laboratories, Chemical Industries, Inc. POLA In this study, we investigated the effects of odors on creation of new ideas by utilizing the Alternate Uses Test. The subjects were asked to write down as many possible uses of empty tin cans as they could conceive in 20 min. The purpose was to evaluate the subject's ability to think of new and unconventional ways to use the empty cans. Twelve minutes into the experiment, three test groups were exposed to one of three essential oil odors:rosemary, peppermint or orange. For the control group, odor-free air was introduced. The ideas devised by the subjects were classified into two categories according to the standard TCT test method. "T-type" represents ideas having higher similarity to the original usage of the can. "I-I- type" represents ideas having lower similarity and higher originality. The effect of odors on idea creation was evaluated by the difference in the number of ideas presented before and aRer the odor introduction. The test scores of the three test groups were statistically compared with that of the control group. The results demonstrated no differences in the number off'T-type" ideas. On the other hand, subjects exposed to rosemary or peppermint, but not to orange, showed a significantly increased number of"H-type" ideas. This suggests that rosemary and peppermint have some effect on the creation of original ideas. Furthermore, rosemary and peppermint seemed to have greater effect on subjects who had scored low in creative aptitude. Effect of Free Fatty Acids in Sebum on Epidermal Barrier Function Katsuhiro Maruyama*, Yuri Okano*, Hitoshi Masaki*, Hiromu Sakurai** Kobe Research Laboratory, NOEVIR Co., Ltd.*, Department of Analytical and Bioinorganic Chemistry, Kyoto Pharmaceutical University** We have previously reported that the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) increased with increasing free fatty acids content in sebum. Therefore, in the present study, we have investigated the influence of free fatty acids on epidermal barrier function from the aspect of interaction between free fatty acids and intercellular lipids membrane structure. Effects of free fatty acids on the epidermal barrier function and the lipids membrane structure were assessed with TEWL of