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J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 311-321 (September/October 2005) Effect of systemic hormonal cyclicity on skin NEELAM MUIZZUDDIN, KENNETH D. MARENUS, STEVEN F. SCHNITTGER, MICHAEL SULLIVAN, and DANIEL H. MAES, Estee Lauder Companies, 125 Pinelawn Road, Melville, NY 11747. Accepted for publication May 26, 2005. Synopsis Fluctuations in estrogen and progesterone during the menstrual cycle can cause changes in body systems other than the reproductive system. We conducted several studies to determine a possible correlation between phases of the menstrual cycle and specific skin properties. Healthy Caucasian women (ages 21-48), who had a typical 26-29 day menstrual cycle, participated in the studies. Measurements of skin barrier strength, dryness, response to lactic acid stinging, skin surface lipids, and microflora were obtained every week for two to three months. Ultraviolet B susceptibility in terms of minimal erythemal dose was also studied. The skin barrier was the weakest between days 22 and 26 of the cycle. Elevated neuronal response (lactic acid sting) was not observed to vary much with the cycle. Skin was driest between day 1 and day 6, while skin surface lipid secretion appeared to be highest on days 16-20 of the hormonal cycle. The highest microbial count was around days 16-22, and there was a high UV-B susceptibility between days 20 and 28 of the menstrual cycle. INTRODUCTION Menstrual cyclicity is a major biological process for women during their reproductive years and is associated with significant changes in hormonal status and behavior. An­ drogen excess from the ovaries or adrenal overproduction from the cutaneous metabolism of precursor hormones may be responsible for acne in some women (1-3). In addition to acne, other skin changes like skin thickness and echodensity (4), changes in transepi­ dermal water loss (TEWL) and blood flow (5-6), neuronal responses like pain (7), and irritant stimulus (8) have been implicated as consequences of hormonal changes. Clinical studies were designed to study changes in skin during the course of systemic fluctuations in estrogen and progesterone in a monthly menstrual cycle. In the first study, blood levels of progesterone and estradiol were measured once a week for a month. Additionally, barrier functions, neuronal responses, skin moisturization, and skin surface lipids and their correlation with hormonal changes in blood were studied. In Address all correspondence to N eelam Muizzuddin. 311
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