ADVANCED CARRIER SYSTEMS 557 the activity of metalloproteinase, which is a kind of proteolytic enzyme contributing to skin photoaging and skin carcinoma. A w/o microemulsion containing quercetin sig- nifi cantly prevented the depletion of GSH and also the increase in the level of metallo- proteinase (67). Ceramides, though enhancing the water content and smoothness of human skin, are applied limitedly because of their low solubility. This was overcome by using a positively charged nanoemulsion that successfully accommodates suffi cient ceramides (68). Microemulsions and nanoemulsions are highly convenient and acceptable formulations in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Their transparent and clear properties make them more appealing than other formulations with opaque or cloudy appearances. The cosmetic use of microemulsions has drawn substantial interest, and there are many in vitro and in vivo studies on microemulsion application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. However, due to the fact that a large amount of surfactant is required for microemulsion formation, it is important to select the surfactants judiciously. More research is paramount to developing safe and effi cient products (69). The shelf life of emulsions is another problem that needs to be addressed since even nanoemulsions, which are relatively thermodynamically stable, undergo phase separation and droplet aggregation. How to enhance the stability of mi- croemulsions and nanoemulsions needs to be addressed. ON-MARKET PRODUCTS WITH CARRIER TECHNOLOGY Cosmetics manufacturers have turned some outcomes of experimental research into prac- tical production. The fi rst liposomal cosmetic product to appear on the market was Cap- ture®, an anti-aging cream launched by Christian Dior® in 1986. The Capture® line utilizes liposomes in gel and is claimed to be revolutionary in the prevention of wrinkles (70). The liposome delivery system in Advanced Night Repair Protective Recovery Com- plex Serum®, by Estee Lauder targets free radicals in the skin and promotes the skin’s own natural repair rate (8). According to the Urban Sense® eye gel advertisement, “the lipo- some-enriched hydrating treatment gel will deeply penetrate and nourish the delicate skin around the eyes and soften fi ne lines around the face.” Vitamins and botanical ex- tracts are incorporated into this liposomal gel and delivered into skin to nourish skin cells and soften fi ne lines (71). Liposomes are applied in Kara vita’s Clean It® products (mist, lotion, spot treatment) for deep penetration and controlled release of botanical actives, including tea tree oil, to fulfi ll an all-day detoxifying effect (72). Currently niosomes have also been applied in some products. Lancome brought the fi rst cosmetic product contain- ing niosome vesicles, called Niosomes®, into the market in 1987. The product also had its successors like Niosome Plus® anti-aging cream by Lancome, which reached the market in the early 1990s (73). Microparticles and nanoparticles are probably the most widely used carrier systems in cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. Shisheido fi rst launched its nanoparticles product, Elixir Skin Up®, in Japan in 2001, including titanium oxide nanoparticles (8). L’ Oreal, the world’s biggest cosmetics company, is also the biggest nanotechnology patent holder in the United States and the champion of nanotechnology use in beauty products (74). L’Oreal’s anti-wrinke products, Revitalift® Double Lifting Serum and Intense Lift® Treatment Mask, contain nanosomes of Pro-Retinol to “lift and tighten skin.” Lancome also uses a nanoparticles system in its anti-aging products. The anti-aging moisturizer Renergie

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 558 Microlift® incorporates nanoparticles of silica and proteins to help lift and tighten the skin’s surface. Other Lancome products, Primordiale Nanolotion® cream and Hydrazen® cream both use vitamin A-containing nanocapsules to moisturize the skin (75). Helena Ruberstein another top cosmetics brand, develops colloidal gold in its Gold Future® cream, and it is claimed by the manufacturer that particles of gold are able to enhance the bioavailability of epidermis cells. Currently there are many products containing SLN or NLC on the market. German cos- metics manufacturer Dr. Rimpler GmbH introduced Cutanova Cream NanoRepair Q10® into the market in 2005. It is the fi rst lipid nanoparticle-based cosmetic product. This NLC-containing cream is superior to conventional o/w emulsion creams with regard to skin hydration (50). Chanel’s Allure® perfume is incorporated into SLN and nano- emulsions. SLN yields a prolonged release of the perfume (76). It is also found in a pro- longed release of Kenzo® perfume from NLC (77). Products involving an emulsion as a carrier system include an oil-in-water emulsion pat- ented by L’ Oreal. It contains fi llers such as Radiesse® and Restylane® that can be used in numerous cosmetic and dermatological applications and that are suitable for all skin types (8). Korres’s Red Vine Hair® sunscreen utilizes a microemulsion with water-resis- tant UV fi lters to protect hair from UV radiation (78). L’ Oreal owns several patents based on nanoemulsions. Coco Mademoiselle Fresh Moisture Mist® from Chanel has a nano- emulsion that prolongs the fragrance (79). Certain products in the market using carrier systems are tabulated below (Table I also see ref. 80). Table I Summary of the Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical Products That Use Carrier Systems to Improve Performance Trade name Ingredient Use Name of brand Type of carrier system used Capture® Anti-aging Dior Liposome (70) Advanced Night Repair Protective Recovery Complex Serum® Anti-aging Estee Lauder Liposome (82) Clean It® Complexion Mist Acne-controlling Kara vita Liposome Royal Jelly Lift Concentrate Anti-wrinkle Royal Jelly Liposome Niosome Plus® Daily Treatment Lancome Niosome Rénergie® line roducts (Flash Lifting Serum, Microlift Serum, Microlift Cream, Microlift Eye Cream Nanoparticles of silica and proteins Skin-tightening, anti-wrinkles Lancome Nanoparticles (83) Nano Gold® Energizing Cream 24-karat gold, a natural protein Anti-aging, anti-infl ammation Neiman Marcus Nanoparticles NanoramaTM—Nano Gold® Mask Pack Nano-gold, amino acid, collagen, coenzyme Q10, Skin-tightening, anti-wrinkles Lexon Nanotech, IncTM. Nanoparticles Oleogel® Coenzyme Q10, primrose, Vitamin A,E Antioxidation, anti-aging Dermaviduals Nanoparticles