JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 594 cationic cassia polymers, 161, 434 chromosomal effects, 70 cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, 237 cyclopeptide-5, 345 diguanoside tetraphosphate, 469 dimethiconol, 101 essential oils, 393 eugenol, 393 ferulic acid, 483 guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, 101 jojoba oil, 101 lipoic acid, 405 maltodextrin/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer, 430 meadowfoam seed oil, 101 Opuntia humifusa powder, 505 oxothiazolidine, 59, 66 ozonized Oryza sativa callus culture extract, 436 panthenol, 361 peppermint oil, 525 phospholipids, 417 phosphoric acid esters, 60 polyacrylate crosspolymer-3, 418 polyquaternium-7, 101 polyquaternium-10, 101 polyquaternium-55, 265 polyquaternium-67, 101 retinyl palmitate, 405 retinol, 337 stevioside, 448 sweet orange oil, 59 Tamarindus indica polysaccharides, 448 thymol, 393 titanium dioxide, 535 urea, 336 VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, 265 yoghurt, 505 Cosmetic luxury factors to provide feeling of, 331 Cosmetics and behavioral effects, 283 in treatment of cellulite blemishes, 305 Cosmetic thickeners phosphoric acid esters, 60 p-Coumaric acid and melanin synthesis effects, 515 Darutoside and skin aging, 442 Deodorants use by teenagers, 339 Depigmentation by Artocarpus incisus extract, 1 Devices for skin cleansing, 356 Diguanoside tetraphosphate in hair growth, 469 Dimethiconol in conditioning shampoo, 101 DNA repair role of clock genes in, 438 Elastin production role of retinol in, 337 Emollients psychological effects of, 59 Emulsion stabilization review of, 57 role of crosslinked polymers in, 350 Emulsions nanoemulsions, 1 O/W/O type, 331 pediatric sunscreens, 371 peppermint oil creams, 525 retinoids, 405 Epidermal stem cells protected against stress, 450 in skin protection, 346 Escin in cellulite treatment, 305 Essential oils antioxidants, 393 Ethnic hair care overview of, 149 Eugenol antioxidant properties of, 393 Facial cleansing device effi cacy in, 356 Facial masks effi cacy of, 505 Ferulic acid stability of, 483 Fluorotreated zinc oxide in sunscreens, 418 Formulations anionic/cationic complexes, 209 clear gels, 60 composite powder technology in, 64 emulsion stability of, 57, 350 hair penetration and substantivity of, 80 and light diffusion, 452 nanoemulsions, 1 O/W/O emulsions, 331 pediatric sunscreens, 371 peppermint emulsions, 525 phospholipids, 417 phosphoric acid ester thickeners, 60 retinoid emulsions, 405 Fractionated melanin photo-toxic effects of, 445 Fragrance psychological effects of, 57

SUBJECT INDEX 595 Genes in cosmetogenomics, 342 Genomic studies clock genes, 438 computational modeling, 344 cosmetic chromosomal effects, 70 cosmetogenomics, 342 DNA microarrays, 76 DNA repair, 438 epidermal stem cells, 346 fractionated melanin, 445 genotoxic potential testing, 29 human genomic microarrays, 436 methodology review, 72 oridonine/darutoside responses, 442 skin moisture regulation, 348 Ginkgo biloba in cellulite treatment, 305 Graying hair mechanism of, 121 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride in conditioning shampoo, 101 Hair breaking index of, 203 bulk properties of, 428 feel, 336 health, 82 metal uptake by, 383 proteomic analysis of, 229 thermal setting of, 432 tryptophan fl uorescence in, 291 Hair breaking index in damage assessment, 203 Hair care and anionic/cationic complexes, 209 ethnic considerations in, 149 Hair color vibrance factor of, 78 Hair conditioners reduced buildup of, 419 role of cationic Cassia polymers in, 434 statistical modeling in, 161 testing of, 127 Hair damage ceramide treatment of, 565 effect of cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, 237 from setting with hot irons,109 and use of heat protection sprays, 15 X-ray microtomography imaging of, 58 Hair graying mechanism of, 121 Hair growth diguanoside tetraphosphate in, 469 Hair health with diameter, density, age, 82 Hair loss and adenosine treatment, 332 Hair orientation method, 85 Hair penetration by cosmetic materials, 80 Hair protein photomodifi cation of, 418 Hair removal and skin damage, 58 Hair setting with heat activation, 432 Hair shine methods, 453 Hair straightening hair damage from, 109 Hair stress and spectrofl uorescent measurement of hair, 191 Hair styling clear gels in, 60 damage from, 15 innovation in, 83 maltodextrin polymers in, 430 polyacrylate crosspolymer-3 in, 418 thermal effects of, 139 Hair surface aging and cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, 237 Hair surface energy method of study, 127 Heat styling ethnic considerations in, 149 hair damage from, 15, 109 Hybrid polymers overview of, 251 Hydrolyzed silk PG-propyl methylsilanediol crosspolymer in hair conditioning, 419 3-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid melanin synthesis effects of, 515 3-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)propionic acid melanin synthesis effects of, 515 Image quantifi cation in skin evaluation, 426 Infant skin physiology of, 336 Jojoba oil in conditioning shampoo, 101 Lipids in stratum corneum, 68 Liposomes in carrier systems, 549 in damaged hair, 565 overview of, 251