J. Cosmet. Sci., 71, 53–64 (March/April 2020) 53 Antiaging Potential of Fucoxanthin Concentrate Derived from Phaeodactylum tricornutum SO YOUNG KANG, HUIJI KANG, JI EUN LEE, CHAN SONG JO, CHANG BAE MOON, JAEHYOUN HA, JAE SUNG HWANG, and JONGKEUN CHOI , Department of Chemical Engineering, Chungwoon University, Incheon 22110, Korea (S.Y.K., H.K., J.C.), Graduate School of Biotechnology, Kyung Hee University, Yongin 17104, Korea (J.E.L., C.S.J., J.S.H.), R&D Center, Outin Futures Co. Ltd., Seoul 06178, Korea (C.B.M.), Skin Research Center, IEC Korea, Suwon 16690, Korea (J.H.) Accepted for publication September 13, 2019. Synopsis The aim of the study was to investigate the potential of a fucoxanthin concentrate prepared from Phaeodactylum tricornutum as a wrinkle care cosmetic agent. The concentrate (up to 25 μg/ml) did not affect the proliferation of human fi broblasts. In addition, the concentrate signifi cantly increased procollagen synthesis in the fi broblasts at 12.5 and 25 μg/ml however, it signifi cantly decreased the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 at 25 μg/ml. In a follow-up study, a wrinkle care cream containing 0.03% of fucoxanthin concentrate was prepared and tested in women (aged 35–50 years, n = 21) for 8 weeks. The cream was applied twice daily. Safety assessment of the cream was carried out visually. In addition, interviews were conducted to investigate if adverse events such as erythema, edema, scaling, itching, stinging, burning, tightness, or prickling had occurred. No symptoms that threaten skin safety were reported. Evaluation of wrinkles around the eyes using the replica method showed a statistically signifi cant decrease in wrinkles at week 8. Moreover, skin moisture and elasticity increased signifi cantly from week 4. These results suggest that the fucoxanthin concentrate has no adverse effects on the skin and can be used as an active ingredient in wrinkle care cosmetics. INT RODUCTION The skin is directly exposed to the external environment therefore, it plays an important role in maintaining homeostasis of the human body by protecting it from external factors such as temperature, humidity, pathogens, and ultraviolet (UV) rays (1). However, skin cells are damaged by various harmful factors, such as pollutants, strong UV rays, stress, and malnutrition (2–5). As aging progresses and damages caused by the aforementioned factors accumulate, changes in the biochemical activities of the skin occur, which lead to Address all correspondence to Jongkeun Choi at jkchoi@chungwoon.ac.kr.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 54 an imbalance in metabolism (6). The imbalance results in changes in skin appearance. Skin aging is affected by genetic factors and the external environment (1). Factors such as UV light, hormonal abnormality, environmental pollutants, and smoking cause an in- crease in the expression of dermal enzymes that degrade major components of the extra- cellular matrix, such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. This results in alteration of the physical structure of the skin (7). The most prominent features of aging-induced changes in the skin are loss of skin elasticity and wrinkles. Reactive oxygen species such as singlet oxygen, superoxide radical, and hydroxyl radical, which are generated by in- trinsic and extrinsic factors, mediate the skin aging process by promoting the expression of several matrix-degrading enzymes (8,9). A signifi cant amount of superoxide is pro- duced during normal mitochondrial cellular respiration (10,11). UV light is the most important external factor that accelerates aging via the generation of reactive oxygen species. Exposure to UV rays can be avoided by using a cover cloth or applying sunscreen on exposed skin. Endogenous reductases and antioxidants prevent oxidative damage to proteins, lipids, and DNA by reducing toxic active oxygen species to harmless chemical species. Several studies have been carried out to investigate how to prevent aging and treat wrinkles. Weiss et al. (12) reported that retinoic acid (RA) is effective in alleviating rough and wrinkled skin. In addition, other clinically active substances such as retinol, vitamin C, vitamin E, and adenosine are used as raw materials in formulating cosmetics (13–15). However, the need for raw materials with excellent effi cacy is high in the cos- metic industry. Research is ongoing to fi nd such substances from natural sources this is because natural products with excellent antioxidant activity are important sources of substances with antiaging and antiwrinkle effects. Mor e than 600 carotenoids have been identifi ed. They include beta-carotene, alpha- carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, lycopene, astaxanthin, and fucoxanthin. Carotenoids are very benefi cial to human health because they have high antioxidant activity (16). However, because it is diffi cult to synthesize carotenoids in large amounts, they must be obtained from natural sources. Fucoxanthin is a common carotenoid that is mostly found in the marine environment, especially in brown algae and diatoms. Fucoxanthin makes up more than 10% of the carotenoids that are produced in nature (17,18). Fucoxanthin (molecular formula, C42H58O6 Figure 1) is a xanthophyll with a unique polyisoprenic structure, which includes an allene bond a 5,6-monoepoxide and a ketone group conjugated with the polyenic system. It has a brown or olive-green color and signifi cantly absorbs visible light at 400–500 nm (λmax = 449 nm) within the UV–visible absorption spectrum (19,20). Fucoxanthin is commonly found in photosynthetic microalgae and is responsible for absorbing light. Microalgae are exposed to strong light and oxygen conditions there- fore, many reactive oxygen species, such as superoxide radical, singlet oxygen, and nitric oxide, are produced in them (21,22). Extracts that are prepared from microalgae and contain high amounts of carotenoids, especially fucoxanthin, show strong antioxidant and Figure 1. Chemical structure of fucoxanthin.