JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 132 REFE R ENCES (1) E. G. McDonough, The development of machineless permanent waving, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 1(3), 183–189 (1948). (2) C. R. Robbins, “Chemical composition of different hair types,” in Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 5th Ed. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 2012). (3) J. A. Swift, “The structure and chemistry of human hair,” in Practical Modern Hair Science (Allured Books, Carol Stream, IL, 2012). (4) C. R. Robbins, “Morphological, macromolecular structure and hair growth,” in Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 5th Ed. (Springer, 2012). (5) P. R. Brady, Diffusion of dyes into natural fi bers, Rev. Progr. Color., 22, 58–78, 1992. (6) J. D. Leeder, Comments on “pathways for aqueous diffusion in keratin fi bers”, Tex. Res. J., 69, 229 (1999). (7) F. J. Wortmann, G. Wortmann, and H. Zahn, Pathways for dye diffusion in wool fi bers, Tex. Res. J., 67, 720–724 (1997). (8) J. A. Swift, Further comments on “pathways for aqueous diffusion in keratin fi bers”, Tex. Res. J., 70, 277–278 (2000). (9) C. Gummer, Elucidating penetration pathways into the hair fi ber using novel microscopic techniques, J. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 265–280 (2001). (10 ) L. Salce, J. J. Cincotta, S. Barlow, A. Rubinstein, and E. J. Klemm, Reduction of hair in the presence of exogenous disulfi de, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 38, 99–107 (1987). (11 ) J. B. Speakman, The reactivity of the sulphur linkage in animal fi bers part 1. The chemical mecha- nism of permanent set, J. Soc. Dyers Col., 52, 335–346 (1936). (12 ) J. P. E. Human and H. Lindley, The reactivity of the disulfi de bonds of stretched wool fi bers, Tex. Res. J., 27, 917 (1957). (13 ) L. J. Wolfram, Reactivity of disulphide bonds in strained keratin, Nature, 206, 304–305 (1965). (14 ) C. E. Reese and H. Eyring, Mechanical properties and the structure of hair, Tex. Res. J., 20, 743–750 (1950). (15 ) E. T. Kubu, The stress relaxation of fi brous materials. I. instrumentation and preliminary results, Tex. Res. J., 22, 765–777 (1952). (16 ) E. T. Kubu and D. J. Montgomery, II Kinetics of the reduction of wool keratin by cysteine, Tex. Res. J., 22, 778–782 (1952). (17 ) R. R. Wickett, Kinetic studies of hair reduction using a single fi ber techniques, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 34, 301–316 (1983). (18 ) R. R. Wickett and B. G. Barman, Factors affecting the kinetics of disulphide reduction in hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 36, 75–86 (1985). (19 ) R. R. Wickett and R. Mermelstein, Single fi ber stress decay studies of hair reduction and depilation, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 461–473 (1986). (20 ) R. R. Wickett, Disulfi de bond reduction in permanent waving, Cosmet. Toilet., 106, 37–47 (1991). (21 ) M. A. Manuszak, E. T. Borish, and R. R. Wickett, The kinetics of disulfi de bond reduction in hair by ammonium thioglycolate and dithioglycolic acid, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 49–58 (1996). (22 ) M. A. Manuszak, E. T. Borish, and R. R. Wickett, Reduction of human hair by cysteamine and am- monium thioglycolate: a correlation of amino acid analysis and single fi ber tensile kinetic data, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 213–227 (1996). (23 ) E. G. Bendit, There is no Hookean region in the stress-strain curve of keratin, J. Macromol. Sci. Phys., B17(1), 129–140 (1980). (24 ) T. A. Evans, T. N. Ventura, and A. B. Wayne, The kinetics of hair reduction, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 45, 279–298 (1994). (25 ) C. M. Bamford and C. F. H. Tipper. Eds., Comprehensive Chemical Kinetics, Vol. 22 (Elsevier, Amster- dam, Oxford, New York, NY, 1980). (26 ) M. J. Suter, Chemistry in permanent waving past, present and future, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 1(2), 103–108 (1948). (27 ) T. Toy’oka and I. Kazuhiro, New fl uorgenic reagent having halogenbenzofurazan structure for thiols: 4-(aminosulfonyl)-7-fl uoro-2,1,3-benzoxadiazole, Anal. Chem., 56, 2461–2464 (1984). (28 ) D. J. Evans, A method for determining the penetration of reducing agents into wool using fl uorescent microscopy, Tex. Res. J., 59, 569–576 (1989). (29 ) J. H. Sharp, C. W. Brindley, and B. N. N. Achar, Numerical data for some commonly used solid state reaction equations, J. Am. Ceram. Soc., 49, 379–382 (1966).
PERMANENT WAVING AND PERM CHEMISTRY 133 (30 ) T. A. Evans, “Adsorption properties of hair,” in Practical Modern Hair Science, T. A. Evans and R. R. Wickett. Eds. (Allured Books, Carol Stream, IL, 2012). (31 ) F. J. Wortmann and I. Souren, Extensional properties of human hair and permanent waving, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 38, 125–140 (1987). (32 ) E. I. Valko and G. Barnett, A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 3, 108–117 (1952). (33 ) D. H. Powers and G. Barnett, A study of the swelling of hair in thioglycolate solutions and its reswell- ing, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 4, 92–100 (1953). (34 ) M. E. Eckstrom, Swelling studies of single hair fi bers, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 2, 4 (1951). (35 ) A. Shansky, The osmotic behaviour of hair during the permanent waving process as explained by swell- ing experiments, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 14, 427–432 (1963). (36 ) F. J. Wortmann, A. Hullmann, and C. Popescu, Water management of human hair, IFSCC Mag., 10(4), 317–320 (2007). (37 ) J. C. Brown, The determination of damage to wool fi bers, J. Soc. Dyers. Col., 75, 11–21 (1959). (38 ) E. J. Klemm, J. W. Haefele, and A. R. Thomas, The swelling behavior of hair fi bers in lithium bromide, Toilet Goods Assoc., 43, 7–13 (1965). (39 ) A. Nandagiri, B. Solka, and J. Kocis, Method of Reducing Malodor in Permanent Waving, US Patent #5,554,363. (4 0) D. H. Kirby, The waving effi ciency of cold permanent wave lotion, Drug Cosmet. Indus., 80(3), 314–400 (1957). (41 ) F. J. Wortmann and N. Kure, Effects of the cuticle of the permanent wave set of human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 45, 149–158 (1994). (42 ) R. D. B. Fraser and G. E. Rodgers, The bilateral structure of wool cortex and its relation to crimp, Aust. J. Biol. Sci., 8, 288–299 (1955). (43 ) J. A. Swift, “The histology of keratin fi bers,” in The Chemistry of Natural Protein Fibers, R. S. Asquith. Ed. (Plenum Press, New York, NY, 1977), pp. 81–146. (44 ) S. Thibaut, P. Barbarat, F. Leroy, and B. A. Bernard, Human hair keratin network and curvature, Int. J. Dermatol., 46(Suppl. 1), 7–10 (2007). (45 ) W. G. Bryson, D. P. Harland, J. P. Caldwell, J. A. Vernon, R. J. Walls, J. L. Woods, S. Nagase, T. Itou, and K. Koike, Cortical cell types and intermediate fi lament arrangements correlate with fi ber curvature in Japanese human hair, J. Struct. Biol., 166, 46–58 (2009).
Previous Page Next Page