104 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS WHAT PROPERTIES SHOULD BE TESTED IN A HAND LOTION? It is a real challenge to all cosmetic chemists to set up accurate yard- sticks a, nd to find out what properties and qualities make successful, accept- able cosmetics. There is no question that any clear evaluation of cosmetic products depends first on the cosmetic chemist finding just what these prop- erties are. The evaluation of a simple hand lotion offers a real challenge to the cosmetic chemist. What do you measure in a good hand lotion? What does it do? Why is it preferred? What does the customer think she wants from a hand lotion? What does she actually get? How much skin penetration does a lotion give? How does it change the skin? These are only a few of the questions that must arise in attempting to evaluate a single, simple hand lotion. Then the chemist must work out such tests as are reproducible, which can be accurately completed in the laboratory and rechecked in another laboratory. Is ADVERTISING MORE IMPORTANT? Perhaps the most discouraging part of product evaluation is that a competitor with a more colorful, more strongly worded or more daring adver- tising claim can and does outsell your excellent product with his inferior unstable merchandise. The question is frequently raised as to whether performance really counts. It is suggested that until the chemists do have accurate methods for product performance that new cosmetics will continue to be promoted by strong advertising puffery because there is no other means of evaluating them. STILL A NEED TO WORK ANONYMOUSLY For the past year members of this Committee have been wrestling with many of the questions just discussed. It is my belief that they have made tremendous progress and you will hear from them individually. One of their major problems is still the need for active interest and support from more cosmetic chemists. They still encounter a great many cases where the chemist feels that he is divulging special secrets when he is actually reviewing problems widely known and recognized by all technical members of the industry. In recognizing the need for keeping suggestions confiden- tial, they are planning to indicate the criticisms and comments of many chemists without disclosing their names. NEED VOR MORE TEST METHODS While we are discussing five or six test methods today, we should be working on ten or twelve. We need the help, suggestions and support of all of the members. Your suggestions and indications of willingness to cooperate would be greatly appreciated.

JOURNAL OF I'HE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 105 T•rx^x•v• Ev^i•u^x•o• M•'•or•s xs•'o Orr•c•^• PP, oc•:rmP,•:s We are planning to offer several tentative evaluation methods this fall. These tentative methods will be made available to all members of the SocxET¾ and those in charge of these test methods would like your criticisms --both constructive and destructive. After these tentative evaluation methods have been open to review by the SomET¾ for one year, we propose to offer them as "Official S.C.C. Methods" for evaluating cosmetic products. It is hoped that "Official Methods" will develop as tremendously improved, accurate methods that have been checked and rechecked in many separate laboratories. The Subcommittee has the initial problem of selecting properties that are important and that can be accurately measured. Initially we are working with established methods but we expect to develop new and special methods before long. Usually, coded samples are sent to all members of the Subcommittee to see what agreement (if any) is obtained among the com- mittee members using the suggested techniques. At least one committee has been working for nearly a year to develop a test method which will give the same values in the hands of several different investigators, and you will learn today of their experience. We have started with six important cosmetic products and five subcom- mittees to study them: Shampoos, Waving Lotions, Aerosols, Creams and Lotions, Deodorants and Antiperspirants. Each committee has considered what test methods show the most promise and are reporting to you. We are particularly encouraged by the assurance that several tentative test methods will be offered for general SocI•,¾ study this fall. What addi- tional products shall we tackle ? COMMENTS BY MORRIS J. ROOT M•,HoDs ^sD techniques have been developed for analyzing the spray characteristics of aerosol products. The characteristics of the spray which can be measured include these: I. Pressure II. Delivery Rate III. Spray Pattern (Particle Size) IV. Spray Angle. I. Pressure. The pressure in the container determines the forcefulhess of the spray and, therefore, is an important consideration in analyzing the spray. Furthermore, certain government regulations make it imperative that the pressure be measured by a standard technique. A tentative method for internal pressure determination of aerosol prod- ucts in lightweight metal containers has now been adopted by the Aerosol Division of the Chemical Specialties Manufacturers Association. This