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CUTANEOUS REACTIONS FROM COSMETICS By ADOLPH ROSTENBERG, JR.* Based on paper presented September 23-2¾, 7959, Seminar, New York City** T•. v^•t•otss •4•.^•s by which cosmetics may produce cutaneous reactions will be considered first. T•BLE 1 Irritant Allergic Pigmentary Photodynamic Accumulative These are outlined in Table 1. By an irritant reaction is meant a cutaneous inflammation that is brought about without the interven- tion of an antibody system. This is usually labelled as a primary irritant reaction and develops in most peo- ple upon first exposure to the substance in question as, for example, if one spills sulfuric acid on the skin. It is possible, however, to have a primary irritant reaction develop as a consequence of cumulative insults. The cutaneous application of a soap with the ultimate development of irrita- tion would be an illustration of this. Such reactions have been called skin fatigue. The mechanisms by which primary irritant reactions are brought about are by and large not understood (1). Presumably, primary irritants produce cutaneous inflammation because they interfere with an enzyme system essential for the integrity of normal skin. In the case of strong vesicants, as mustard gas, there is experimental evidence to show that this material interferes with various enzyme systems, such as hexokinase and pyruvate oxidase, but for lesser irritants explicit knowledge is not available. It has been suggested that certain substances produce irrita- tion because of their defatting properties. This sounds reasonable and may well be true but still there is no adequate explanation as to why, if it is true, it should be true. The morphologic expressions of a primary irritant reaction is a dermatitis which is characterized by erythema and scaling in its mildest forms and by erythema plus vesiculation and crusting if the irritation is more severe. To these essential morphologic ingredients may be added a variety of secondary changes. In a consideration of the various reactions brought about by cosmetics, those developed by primary irritants are, for obvious reasons, not as important as reactions brought * University of Illinois College of Medicine, Department of Dermatology, Chicago 12, I11. ** Kodachromes depicting the reactions discussed were used when the paper was given at the Seminar. 170