Society of Cosmetic Chemists Great Britain of 1965 DIPLOMA EXAMINATION Brunel College PAPER I (Monday, 21st June 1965.) Candidates should answer FIVE questions from not less than FOUR sections. SECTION A 1. W•ly do molecules absorb light of various wavelengths ? Define and give examples of chromophoric and auxochromic groups. Describe the effect of increasing the number of chromophoric and auxochromic groups in an organic molecule. 2. Write notes on •hree of the following: (a) Reactions between thioglycolate and human hair. (b) Extensometer tests on human hair. (c) Solvent assisted dye mechanisms. (d) Brushless shaving creams. SECTION B 3. Give a brief account of the colouring materials used in eye make-up. Describe the various types of eye-shadow currently available, illus- trating with formulae. Discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each type of eye-shadow. 4. Discuss the formulation of a modern lipstick. In particular, define the desirable characteristics which you would attempt to achieve and difficulties which you might expect to encounter in your development programme. Indicate how a basic formula can be modified to give it (a) improved application 648

SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF GREAT BRITAIN 649 (b) increased creaminess (c) increased gloss on the lips (d) greater suitability for tropical sale. SECTION C o Indicate what factors you would consider in choosing a polythene squeeze pack for an alcoholic hair spray. Describe how you would assess these factors in order to make sure that the pack would function well, and that an adequate shelf life would be obtained. , Describe what you would look for in developing a pack for an aerosol deodorant. Discuss briefly, both those factors which influence the performance, and those which affect its shelf life. S•CT•ON D 7. Give a general account of the anatomy of the bacterial cell and explain fully the importance of the wall and cytoplasmic membrane. 8. What are the important bacteria found on the skin? Describe the part played by these organisms in the production of body odour and discuss the problems involved in the selection of a germicide for incorporation in a body deodorant. S•CT•ON E 9. Describe the principal types of contact dermatitis and distinguish carefully between them. 10. What general procedure would you follow in formulating skin creams ? Illustrate your answer with reference to the following products: Hand creams. Cleansing creams. Foundation creams. Sunscreen creams.