SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPY 519 cations of the SEM results are correct, the efforts expended to quantify the presence, absence or subtle changes in water content in the stratum corneum may be lessons in experimental eloquence, but from a scientific standpoint, they may not be measuring the really important variable. We believe we have found strong evidence that the effect of water alone, if it does do something, is miniscule compared to the overall covering and lubricating effects of the oils and other materials present in the typical product. A BEFORE and AF- TER 1-h warm water bathtub soak set of replicas show almost no change in the replicas, although, clinically there is a huge change. The inescapable con- clusion is that this type of moisturization produces demonstrable clinical ef- fects, but the changes are not within (or on) the stratum corneum but are, in fact, underneath it! To better communicate the basis for our conclusions, a few additional examples are in order. A. Moisturizing Soap Figure 4 shows the same identical area of clinically chapped skin from a female (mid-thirties) subject, before and after washing with a "moisturizing" (a) (b) Figure 4. SEM montages of chapped skin (back of hand): (a) beiore, and (b) after treat- ment with "moisturizing" soap. Note dramatic reduction in prevalence of uplifting layers of stratum corneum. Location of air bubbles artifact in after was most unfortunate. Scale bar represents 300/zm

520 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS soap. We do not know what exactly would have been considered the "active" ingredient. Our protocol was to do the following (1) make BEFORE replica (2) wash with experimental soap (3) rinse off soapy water (4) wait 30 min. (for maximum chapping effects to occur) and (5) make AFTER replica. In the BEFORE, we can see all of the manifestations of "bad" skin name- ly the uplifting layers, (see arrows) which are general and cover the area. After one washing, the subject felt better, the original chapped appearance xvas nowhere near as prevalent, but most important, there was a dramatic reduction in the number of uplifting layers. Whenever we run this particular protocol, we generally run Ivory soap* as a control on the other hand, and we have never seen an improvement of this type •vith Ivory soap. Hence, we can be confident the effect is due to the soap used and is not caused by some other parameter. Furthermore, the Ivory soap control acts as proof that any smoothing effects cannot be explained in ternas of a cleansing effect of the replicating material. B. Abradent Cleanser It is well accepted that the skin clinically feels smoother after the applica- tion of an abradent facial cleanser. Figure 5 shows the uplifting layers present in the BEFORE, but, which are removed in the AFTER. Hence, again we see a process which results in a beneficial clinical effect once the uplifting layers are removed. Surely no one would call this "Moisturization," but we have "improved" the skin by removing the uplifting material. For a control, on the opposite side, we apply soap and water only. Soap and water does have an effect, but certainly nowhere even approaching the effect of the abradent cleanser. Hence, in this instance, not only can we demon- strate the efficacy of an abradent product, but we can demonstrate superiority. C. Moisturizing Hand Lotion Certainly, it is recognized that the application of many of the common lotions and creams presently available will improve and bring relief to suffer- ers of dry or chapped skin. Are these "moisturizing" products really adding moisture to the stratum corncure? Or are their beneficial effects obtained by some other mechanism? Figure 6 gives an excellent insight into the mecha- nism of what really happens. Initially, there is a complete coverage and, even though the product is rubbed in, at these magnifications, we very clearly see the covering. Water alone will not cause this effect and as previously pointed out, water alone shows virtually no change whatsoever. Is this moisturization? *Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH.