SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPY 521 • .•% ::..:•-•:4:.• :•'•: •',•':• ß :..':. • ß ' 4 • i ..:'... •.:' •:• •:•"" '•'::'::•' '"':•'•" / •. '•.-'St:. (.' :[-: .• ... •'.' • •: "% ß ,:.. E'?:? ........ :" ..... '%....: .:.,,::..:. . .... :.:L• •j .'.- : :.•::.•? . .:'.•. ...'_ .. :... '•':•'*i'""' .'."'%.. ?: ' "::::•)'" [• ::,?? :: ß . :: ... . ..-:•.::.:: ..,.....:': •4•..:'• .......: %....'.'.:. • (a) (b) Figure 5. SEM montages of dry facial (female subject, upper 40's): (a) before and (b) after cleansing with abradent facial cleanser. Uplifting layers present originally (arrow A) are removed during treatment. To lower right is small comedon that has been partially cleaned during process (arrow B). Fiber appearing material is facial hair (arrow C). Scale bars represent 50/•m Maybe it is and maybe it is not depending on how one defines moisturization, but clearly the total effect is far beyond what water alone will do. In any case, we can define a definite improvcment as measured by the reduction of the uplifting layers of stratum corneum, even if their absence is due to their being covered up. During the time of the experiment, the subject certainly experienced a beneficial clinical effect, the skin felt softer, and in general, the subject would have perceived the skin was moisturized. D. Active Ingredients: (soluble collagen, protein, and special cellulosic-type polymers) In the last several years, much attention has been focused on the efficacy of certain active raw ingredients when incorporated into skin care products. We have examined many of them, and some do seem to have an effect, and we can follow the changes brought about by these materials through replica studies. One such study was performed in collaboration with Kurt Neulinger (14) utilizing the following protocol on a chapped skin subject. 1. The back of the hand was soaked for 10 min. in 5 per cent sodium lauryl sulfate solution to further roughen the skin. After waiting 20 min, the BE- FORE replica was made (Figure 7(a)).

59.9. JOUBNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS