528 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (a) (b) (o) Figure 9. SEM montages showing: (a) before, (b) after i h, and (c) after 5 h applying typical connnercial h,'md lotion. Scale bars represent 330 t•m market, although water may be involved, the primary effect is due to the oils and additives other than water. CONCLUSION SEM on in vivo skin replicas made as BEFORE and AFTER pairs from the same identical area of stratum corneum demonstrate that beneficial clinical

SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPY 529 (a) (b) (c) Figure 10. Same as Fig. 9, but all uplifting Bayers have been blackened on transparent overlay effects seen with the application of a cosmetic product correlate with a re- duction in the size and numbers of uplifting layers of skin. Water alone seems to have little effect on the stratum corneum and the primary mecha- nism of action of most 'typical commercial moisturizers seems to be one of plas- ticizing, lubricating, aaad even covering the brittle uplifting layers that are re- sponsible for the undesirable clinical effects. In any ease, the term "moisturi-

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