196 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Controlling Surfactant - Layer Curvature and Its pigmentation of human skin through activation of Application to Cubic - Phase - Based Emulsion melanogenesis and the inhibition of the inflammation- Noriko Kanei*, HironobuKunieda** related reactions such as production of superoxide Fragrance Laboratory, Soda Aromatic Co. Ltd.*, anion and lipid peroxide. These data indicated that Division of Artificial Environmental and Systems, RKG had lasting effects for the inhibition of Graduate School of Engineering, melanogenesis and various melanogenic factors aRer Yokohama National University** the degradation in the skin. Emulsion type is highly related to the phase behavior of surfactant in water and oil. When suffactant forms an aqueous micelie, O/W emulsion is formed. In case that suffactant forms a reverse micelie, W/O emulsion is produced. The O/W emulsion changes to W/O emulsion at HLB temperature or PIT in awater / polyoxyethylene nonionic suffactant /oil system at which the suffactant - layer curvature is zero and a bicontinuous micro - emulsion coexists with excess water and oil. The effect of type of added oil on the HLB temperature is highly related to the oil influence on the surfactant - layer curvature. We discuss about the penetration or swelling effect of oil or perfume on the suffactant - layer curvature when oil is solubilized in the surfactinet aggregates. The correlation between the I-ILB temperature and the oil effect on the surfactant - layer curvature is also described. When hydrocarbon oil, especially, high - molecular - weight oil is used, the surfactant - layer curvature changes to be more positive. Hence, in the presence of the oil, a discontinuous micellar cubic phase is produced. When excess oil is dispersed in the cubic phase, a highly viscous and gel - like cubic - phase - based emulsion is produced. Lasting Effect of Raspberry Ketone Glucoside on Whitening Tomohiro Yokota*, Tsuyoshi Ikemoto*, Minoru Sasaki**, Toshio Horikoshi** Cosmetics Laboratory*, Basic Research Laboratory**, Kanebo Ltd. Tyrosinase is well known as a key enzyme responsible for the production of melanin in melanocytes. It is also known that inflammatory reactions such as active oxygen species and melanogenic factors in the skin are induced by UV irradiation. The keys to suppress melanin synthesis are considered to be not only the inhibition of tyrosinase activity but also that of inflammatory reactions. Raspberry ketone glucoside (RKG) in raspberry fruit (Rubus ideaeus) had the inhibitory effect on the melanin synthesis. As a result of an investigation with the glycosides that have similar structure of RKG at its glycoside moieties and alkyl chain, the structure of RKG was found to be suitable as an inhibitory factor on melanogenesis. RKG released raspberry ketone (RK) gradually at•er the reaction with both homogenated and desquarnated cells of the stratum comeum. In addition to the inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis, RK also showed remarkable functions such as the scavenge of nitric oxide (NO) which was considered to induce Effect of Odors on Creative Thinking Sakura Inoue, Norihiro Araki, Satoshi Kimura Fundamental Technology Laboratories, Chemical Industries, Inc. POLA In this study, we investigated the effects of odors on creation of new ideas by utilizing the Alternate Uses Test. The subjects were asked to write down as many possible uses of empty tin cans as they could conceive in 20 min. The purpose was to evaluate the subject's ability to think of new and unconventional ways to use the empty cans. Twelve minutes into the experiment, three test groups were exposed to one of three essential oil odors:rosemary, peppermint or orange. For the control group, odor-free air was introduced. The ideas devised by the subjects were classified into two categories according to the standard TCT test method. "T-type" represents ideas having higher similarity to the original usage of the can. "I-I- type" represents ideas having lower similarity and higher originality. The effect of odors on idea creation was evaluated by the difference in the number of ideas presented before and aRer the odor introduction. The test scores of the three test groups were statistically compared with that of the control group. The results demonstrated no differences in the number off'T-type" ideas. On the other hand, subjects exposed to rosemary or peppermint, but not to orange, showed a significantly increased number of"H-type" ideas. This suggests that rosemary and peppermint have some effect on the creation of original ideas. Furthermore, rosemary and peppermint seemed to have greater effect on subjects who had scored low in creative aptitude. Effect of Free Fatty Acids in Sebum on Epidermal Barrier Function Katsuhiro Maruyama*, Yuri Okano*, Hitoshi Masaki*, Hiromu Sakurai** Kobe Research Laboratory, NOEVIR Co., Ltd.*, Department of Analytical and Bioinorganic Chemistry, Kyoto Pharmaceutical University** We have previously reported that the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) increased with increasing free fatty acids content in sebum. Therefore, in the present study, we have investigated the influence of free fatty acids on epidermal barrier function from the aspect of interaction between free fatty acids and intercellular lipids membrane structure. Effects of free fatty acids on the epidermal barrier function and the lipids membrane structure were assessed with TEWL of

ABSTRACTS 197 hairless mouse skin and calsein release from ceramides liposomes respectively. The TEWL value of hairless mouse skin immediately increased of the treatment with unsaturated fatty acid such as oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, and linoleic acid. Furthermore, unsaturated fatty acids marked induced caNein release from ceramides liposomes. It was assumed that disruption of epidermal barrier function due to the unsaturated fatty acids in sebum related with the alteration of stratum comeum. To reduce the damage induced by an unsaturated fatty acid, oleic acid, we examined cholesterol derivatives on the disrupted skin barrier. In this examination, it was found that the long- chain ct-hydroxy acid cholesteryl ester reduced barrier disruption induced by unsaturated fatty acids. Regional Difference in Morphological Changes in Facial Skin Surface with Aging Takafumi Nishijima, Hiroyuki Ohsu, Takashi Kitahara, Yoshinori Takema Biological Science Laboratories, Kao Corporation The morphological changes of facial skin surface with aging were investigated with special reference to an alteration of the pore. Replica of the skin at upper cheek, middle cheek, lower cheek and chin were obtained from a total of 98 Japanese females ranging in age 18 to 78 years old. The image of replica was classified into two elements, 1) large and hollow pore and 2) skin furrows, and then size and length of which were measured by using image analysis software. Lower cheek and chin showed a continuous increase in mean pore size and number of the pore along with aging. While at upper and •niddle cheek pore discontinuously augmented mean size having a peak around 40 years old and grew in length with aging. The morphological changes of the pore with aging revealed regional difference in the facial skin. Taken together these results, it was suggested that the age related structural changes surrounding pore was developed and resulted in an appearance of large and hollow pore, but skin elongation by sagging had possible influence on the morphological changes of the pore at upper and middle cheek. Molecular Design of a Novel Antioxidant for Suppression of Photoaging Manabu Kitazawa*, Keiji Iwasaki*, Yukiko Ishitsuka**, Misako Kobayashi**, Kumi Arakane** AminoScience Laboratories, Ajinomoto Co., Inc.*, Fundamental Research Laboratories, KOSE Corporation** We designed a novel antioxidant with iron sequestering capacity to suppress ultraviolet (UV) induced skin photoaging. The principle for the molecular design is to mimic the structures and functions of iron sequestering proteins, such as transferrin, by conjugating a vitamin with an amino acid. Thus, N-(4~ pyridoxylmethylene)-L-serine (PYSer), a stabilized conjugate molecule ofpyridoxal (vitamin B6 aidehyde form) and L-serine, was prepared. PYSer formed a 2:1 complex with iron ions (Fe'(PYSer)2. The antioxidative ability of PYSer, mediated by suppressing iron-induced hydroxyl radical generation, was found by means of salicylate hydroxylation assays. The redox potential of PYSer-Fe3+/PYSer- Fe2+ showed superior stabilization of the Fe3+ active catalytic species for hydroxyl radical generation, rather than the Fe2+ species. In the hairless mice photoaging study, PYSer suppressed UVB-induced wrinkle formation, striation reduction, and derreal hypertrophy. These results indicate that the conjugation of vitamin B6 with an amino acid is a promising approach for the molecular design of antioxidants with iron sequestering capacity.