194 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE light to an subject in various directions at a fixed distance and then make an impression of the subject, ready to be processed. By the image processing through the average values and the variance values calculated previously, it became possible to reproduce the subject traits of the light and shade on a image. Then by standardizing the analyzed results of the subjects, the conventional facial traits which are usually known were successfully reproduced. Meanwhile the difference in the effect brought by applying the foundations became obvious. It was discovered by analyzing the subject with two kinds of foundations which differed in the optical traits. Consequently this series of methods is considered greatly efficient in evaluating the facial stereoscopy, objectively and universally. Evaluation of Pigmentation by Multispectral Image Analysis (Third Report) Visualization of Melanin Pigmentation in the Epidermis Osamu Kaneko, Yukiko Kawaguchi Institute of Beauty Sciences, Shiseido Co., Ltd. A method is proposed for visualizing melanin masses in pigmented regions of the epidermis. Amultispectral image of the pigmentation is obtained at dominant wavelengths of 400, 550 and 700rim and the luminanee of each pixel is converted to a spectral reflectance. Since the spectral reflectance can be expressed linearly, spectral reflectance was then determined in 10nm steps (41 different wavelengths) in the visible region (380-780 nm). The spectral reflectance of pixels at each wavelength was reconverted to luminanee to reconstruct a single multispectral image. Then, the multispectral image at each of the 41 wavelengths was converted to a binary image, and the binary images were laminated into a single composite image to provide visualization of the melanin masses that cause pigmentation in the epidermis. Using this method, it is possible to obtain three dimensional visualization of melanin masses that cause pigmentation in freckles, chloasmas, dark circles and moles, and to visualize changes in melanin distribution in the epidermis following suntan induced pigmentation. Microbial Flora of the Normal Human Skin Kanarne Ishisaka, Keiji [shikawa, Makoto lnagaki, Wataru Sugiura Sankodo Co., Ltd., Osaka Prefectural Institute of Public Health Skin microbial flora was collected from the skin surface of the cheek and the former forehead of healthy men and women, and quantification and identification of the bacilli were performed. When the number of aerobic bacteria was compared between the sampling regions, the higher numbers of aerobic bacteria were detected in the cheek than the forehead in men. On the contrary, the higher numbers of aerobic bacteria were detected in the forehead compared to the cheek in women. Isolation and identification of the aerobic bacteria showed that Staphylococcus epidennidis was dominant in these samples. S. epidermidis was detected from all 48 subjects, and the detection rate was 100%. When the number of anaerobic bacteria was compared between the sampling regions, the higher numbers of anaerobic bacteria were detected in the forehead than the cheek both in men and women. Isolates from men contained higher numbers of anaerobic bacteria than those from women in both sampling regions. Propionibacterium acnes was a dominant species in these samples. P. acnes was detected from all 48 subjects, and the detection rate was 100. Staphylococcus capitis, which belongs to aerobic bacteria. was detected in 17 men among 19 men, while it was detected in only one woman among 29 women. Thus, the differences of species types in the aerobic bacteria were observed between men and women. Study of the enzyme activity of S. epidermidis, the dominant species of the aerobic bacteria, showed that these activities were differed for samples from every subject, and were differed also for the bacteria collected from the same subject. The rate of subjects which had S. epidermidis with acetoin production ability was decreased along with aging. On the contrary, the rate of subjects which had S. epidermidis with urease activated ability was increased along with aging. Inhibitory Action of 4nButyiresorcinol (Rucinol) on Melanogenesis and Its Skin Whitening Effects Takayuki Katagiri, Tadashi Okubo, MidoriOyobikawa, Kiyoko Futaki, Masao Shaku, Mitsuo Kawai, Masaki Takenouchi POLA Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. We have reasoned that by either enhancing inhibition effectiveness oftyrosinase activity or by inhibiting the activities of both tyrosinase and TRPI, we should be able to develop more effective whitening cosmetics. We found 4- n - butylresorcinol (BR) to have strong inhibitory effect against melanogenic enzymes which are responsible for hyperpigmentation. BR reversibly inhibited melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells without any effects on cell growth, and its potency was stronger than that ofarbutin or kojic acid which are widely used in whitening cosmetics. Topical application of 0.3% BR lotion prior or posterior to UVB irradiation effectively suppressed UVB induced hyperpigmentation in human. In our extensive consumer usage test involving 449 healthy females, a large proportion of subjects felt there were improvements in conditions of pigmentation, skin darkness, and freckles increased in as little as I month. These experimental data indicated that BR is an effective skin whitening agent which can be safely used in cosmetics. Furthermore, a trial to evaluate clinical effects of 0.3 BR lotion in patients with liver spot was made. BR lotion was evaluated as slightly

ABSTRACTS 195 useful or better in 52 (83.9%) out of 62 subjects. Accordingly, we concluded that BRcan be used in the clinical treatment of liver spot. Quantitative Method of Wrinkle Depth Using Standard Scale Koichim Tanaura, Yuri Okano, Haruyuki Okarnura, Hitoshi Masaki Kobe Research Lab., NOEVIR Co., Ltd. Generally, women recognize aging with the appearance of wrinkles at the comer of the eyes or around the mouth. Thus one of the essential aims of cosmetics is the development of substances for wrinkle repair In the process of developing cosmetics for this purpose, it is essential to establish a highly reproducible method for determining wrinkle depth. Several methods exist for this purpose, which include 3 dimensional analysis by laser light, image analysis, and conventional scoring. All of these methods use image analysis to determine wrinkle depth. However, each of these methods produce different results depending upon the way the image is obtained and the type of analysis used. We thus tried to establish a new evaluation method which uses image analysis in combination with a standard scale. This study shows that our method is highly reproducible and was very suitable on evaluation of the wrinkle depth. Properties of the Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate (FA) Copolymers and Their Applications for Cosmetics II --Preventing Effect against Makeup Deterioration in Case of Applying to Foundations-- Koji Nagashima, Tatsuhiko Watanabe, Masamichi Morita, Kazuo Shimamoto, Yasuo Sugawara RD Department No.2, Chemical Division, Daikin Industries, Ltd., Yao R&D Laboratories, Nihon Kolmar Co. Ltd. We have created a"long lasting" makeup foundation by applying two types ofperfluoroalkylethyl acrylate (FA) copolymers. The two FA copolymers are a hybrid polymer which includes hydrophobiccomonomers and a SR polymer which includes hydmphilic comonomers. The properties of these FA copolymers have already been discussed in our first report. In this report, FA copolymers were applied to the surface of cosmetic powders. Makeup foundation containing these powders was tested for surface deterioration. Test results showed that the foundation containing hybrid polymer treated powders had a higher tolerance against makeup deterioration than the one containing silicone treated powders. Moreover, the foundation containing powders treated by both hybrid and SR polymers demonstrated an even higher tolerance. These results indicated that applying both types of FA copolymer treatment at the same time prevents makeup deterioration when both sweat and sebum are present on the skin. The Effect of Fragrance on Protease Activation in Stratum Comeurn Toyomasa Ishitoya, Masanori Okada Products R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. Subjects were given a sleep deprivation as a stress to check the differences between activation of protease (trypsin) in stratum corneum with and without fragrance in sleeping time. Stratum comeum were collected from the inner upper arm by the tape stripping method. PeptidyI-MCA was added to them and incubated for 2h at 37øC to measure the fluorescent light of produced MCA. This result showed that the pratease activation with fragrance was significantly higher than one without. We thought it would be possible that the stress alleviation effect and refreshing sleep caused by this pleasant fragrance gave good influences on the homeostatic mechanisms. Volume 35, No. 2, 2001 Ductility and Adhesion Properties of Base Make-Up Products Depend on the Character of Powder Bed Hajime Hotta Skin Care Products Research Laboratories., Kao Corporation The body pigments that construct the framework of powder make-up cosmetics like foundation play a very important role for designing the characteristic of the product. The goodness of the characteristic for use and use feelings, e.g. attaching to smoother on the skin, good adhesion properties, and a moist feelingis a basic and important element for the pleasantness of the powder make-up cosmetics. The characteristic obtained to the body pigments greatly exerts the influence on use and use feelings. The malleability, the ductility, and the adhesion properties that are the main factor for use are greatly according to the bulk characteristic of powder bed. As for powder, the shape, the size, and the character are different as an individual particle. On the other hand the malleability, the adhesion, the ductility, and the filling, etc. are shown as powder bed to which particles gathered. The use of the powder make-up cosmetics was caught from the point of the powder characteristic. Therefore it was an appearing case according to the combination of powder that the size and shape are different as for the peculiar use and function. At first the flowability and the friction characteristic of the inorganic boards powder spherical fine powder composite systems were introduced. And next the adhesion and the optical function of the mono dispersed fine powder / spherical powder composite systems were introduced including the evaluation technique.