210 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE presented: (a) With a new test method using the isolated Corynebacteria and their enzymatic activity, the direct malodor-controlling activity of existing cosmetic ingredients was evaluated. (b) The structure of the natural malodor precursor was modified by replacing the malodor acid with fragrance molecules. These new fragrance precursors were shown to be cleaved by the same aminoacylase. Development of hydrogel patch for controlled release of alpha-hydroxy acid contained in tamarind fruit pulp extract Jarupa Viyoch'\ Thanakom Sudedmarka, Wipawadee Srema\ Wipawan Suwongkrua• •Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok, 65000 Thailand bCosmetic and Natural Product Research Center, Health Sciences Research Institute, Naresuan University, 0.04% w/w (CuC0_5Go.M),chitosan: tapioca starch 4.5: 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.04% w/w (C4.5T0_5G0.04) or 0.05% w/w (C4.5To.5Go.o 5),and chitosan : rice starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.04% w/w (C4.5R.,uG0.04) and chitosan : rice starch 4.0 : 1.0 with glutaraldehyde 0.03% w/w (C4.0R1.0G0.03) provided the flexible and elastic patches with good bio-adhesive property. The tensile strength values ranged from 5 to15 N mm·2 and the elasticity ranged from 30-60%. The addition of the extract in these formulations significantly increased the tensile strength values of the obtained patches. The patch of C4_oR1.oGo.oo formulation containing the extract showed relatively highest porosity, corresponding to its highest amount (12.02±0.33 mg) and rate (0.452±0.012 mg mm· 2 min- 112 ) of tartaric acid released The amounts of tartaric acid released from the developed hydrogel patches were proportional to a square root of time (Higuchi's model), particularly the release from C4.oR1.oGo.oo (R.2, 0.9978±0.0020) and C4.5Ro.5Go.04 (R.2, 0.9961±0.0024) patches. Phitsanulok, 65000 Thailand Comparative study of the physiological properties of collagen, gelatin and collagen hydrolysate as cosmetic The aim of this study was to develop hydrogel patch using materials crosslinked chitosan-starch as polymeric matrix for controlling the release of the natural alpha-hydroxy acid G. Li, S. Fukanaga, K. Takenouchi and F. Nakamura contained in the extract of tamarind's fruit pulp. The chitosan (MW 100,000) was blended with com, tapioca or Hokkaido University, Sapporo, Japan rice starch in various ratios and then crosslinked with glutaraldehyde. The physical characteristics, mechanical resistance, bio-adhesion property and surface morphology of the prepared hydrogel patches with and without the extract were investigated. The release patterns of the hydrogel patches containing the extract were investigated by measuring the amount of tartaric acid, a major AHA present in the tamarind's fruit pulp extract, accumulated in the receptor medium of the vertical diffusion cell at various time intervals over a period of 6 hours. The results indicated that the formulations of chitosan : com starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.02% w/w (C4_5Co,5Go.02 ) or The cell biological properties of collagen, gelatin and collagen hydrolysate (15 000 Da) were studied using murine keratinocytes. Keratinocyte culture experiments demonstrated that only collagen had significant effects on cell attachment and proliferation, but the results of cells cultured on gelatin and collagen hydrolysate showed the rates of adhesion and proliferation were similar to those of cells cultured on plastic as a control. It is concluded that collagen has better physiological effects that those of gelatin and colagen hydrolystae as skin-care cosmetic materials.
]. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 211-212 (May/June 2005) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 8, No. 1, 2005* Tracking Intersensory Properties of Cosmetic Products via Psycho-Physiological Assessment Wolf Eisfeld1, Florian Schaefer2, Wolfram Boucsein2 and Carolin Stolz2 l Co gn is Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG, HenkelstraBe 67, D-40589 Diisseldorf, Germany 2 Institute for Physiological Psychology, University of Wuppertal, Max-Horkheimer- StraBe 2 0, D-42119 Wuppertal, Germany IFSCC Magazine, 8 (2005)(1)25-30 Intersensory phenomena frequently occur during the subjective assessment of consumer products and are very difficult to measure properly in an objective way. In earlier studies, the objective emotional assessment (OEA) technique based on the evaluation of psycho-physiological reactions and parameters had proven to be highly suitable for determining emotional consumer response. The aim of the present study was to assess the intersensory effects of color and scent via OEA The experiment was designed in a way that matched combinations of color and fragrance were compared with apparently mismatched combinations in transparent gels. A special apparatus was constructed for presentation of the various stimuli to the volunteers. Furthermore, the order of stimuli presentation was varied according to a prime-probe conc ep t Data analysis was carried out with multivariate statistics, which allowed identification of characteristic discriminant functions for the various experimental conditions and interpretation of their practical meaning in a straightforward way. In summary, we found that OEA could be successfully applied to such weak stimuli as color and scent and there was a good differentiation of matched and mismatched combinations with respect to their activation and emotional effect on volunteers. A very subtle separation of stimuli was achieved, which allows de ep insight into the mutual interdependency of color and scent Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non- Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta- Glucan Ravi Pillai 1 , Mark Redrnond2, Joachim Roding3 1 Symrise Inc., 1 0 Gordon Drive, Totowa, New Jersey, USA 2 Ceapro Inc. 1 008 RTF University of Alberta, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada 3 S ym rise GmbH & Co KG., Bleichenbriicke 1 0, 2 0354 Hamburg, Germany IFSCC Magazine,-8 (2005)(1) 17-21 Oat beta-glucan is a water soluble, linear polymer of glucose consisting of 1 ,4 (70%) and 1 ,3 (30%) linkages with an average molecular weight of lxl06 Da. Scientific r ep orts indicate beta-glucan is a film-forming moisturizer, a biological response modifier, and a promoter of wound healing. Our objective was to study the penetration of oat (1,4:1,3) beta-glucan in human skin models and to evaluate clinically its efficacy for reducing fine-lines and wrinkles. Penetration studies performed on human abdominal skin used a single application of0.5% beta-glucan solution at a dose of 5mg per cm2. The results showed that beta-glucan, despite its large molecular size, d eep ly penetrated the skin into the ep idermis and dermis. A clinical study of 2 7 subjects was performed to evaluate the effects of beta-glucan on facial fine-lines and wrinkles. After 8 weeks of treatment, digital image analysis of silicone r ep licas indicated a si gn ificant reduction of wrinkle depth and height, and overall roughness. This work is the first ex vivo and in vivo demonstration of the physiological effects of beta-glucan in the penetration and restructuring of human tissue. The study supports the use of oat beta-glucan in the care and maintenance of healthy skin and the cosmetic treatment of the si gn s of aging. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 211
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