J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 19-33 Qanuary/February 2007)
Inhibitory effects of natural plants of Jeju Island on
elastase and MMP-1 expression
YOUNG HEUI KIM, KI SOO KIM, CHANG SUNG HAN,
HONG CHUL YANG, SUN HEE PARK, KANG II KO,
SOO HEE LEE, KI HO KIM, NAM HO LEE, JUNG MI KIM,
and KYUNG-HUN SON, R&D Center, Bioland Ltd., Byongchon,
Chonan, Chungnam, 330-860 (Y.H.K., K.S.K., C.S.H., H.C. Y.,
S.H.P., K.I.K., S.H.L., K.H.K.), Department of Chemistry, College of
Natural Science, Cheju National University, Ara I-Dong, jeju,
690-756 (N.H.L., J.M.K.), and Department of Pharmacology, College
of Pharmacy, Kangwon National University, Chunchon, Kangwon
200-701 (K.-H.S.), Republic of Korea.
Accepted for publication September 28, 2006.
Synopsis
In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants
collected from J eju Island, which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea. We
investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1
mRNA expression for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials for use in cosmetics. In
the free radical scavenging capacity assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Torreya nucifera
(leaf), showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC50 30 µg/ml). Among these extracts,
Nymphaea tetragona (rhizome) extract showed the highest free radical scavenging activity (SC50 =4.7 µg/ml).
In the anti-elastase inhibition assay, seven extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Persicaria hydropiper
(whole plant), showed high inhibitory activity (50% at 100 µg/ml). Among these extracts, Persicaria
hydropiper (whole plant) extract showed the highest elastase inhibition activity (IC50 =46.7 µg/ml). In the
MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, Typha orientalis (seed), Pyrrosia hastata (root), and Capsicum annum
(whole plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG, which was used as a control. Further-
more, four extracts, including Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root), Nymphaea
tetragona (root), and Camellia japonica (leaf), completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human
fibroblast cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts may hold potential for use as natural
active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics.
INTRODUCTION
The skin consists of two distinct layers, epidermis and dermis. The dermis is the thicker,
deeper layer of the skin underlying the epidermis, and is mainly composed of connective
Address all correspondence to Ki Ho Kim.
19

20 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
tissues, such as collagen and elastic fibers it also contains proteins, nerves, blood vessels,
lymph, and muscles. Among these, collagen fiber is the main component of the extra-
cellular matrix (ECM) as the representative connective tissue and comprises about 90%
of the dermis collagen has a direct influence on skin tension. The maintenance of the
collagen structure relates to the intrinsic aging and photo-aging of the skin (1,2).
Therefore, a variety of investigations has been focused on protection against skin aging
by the inhibition of collagenase activity, which disintegrates the ECM proteins (3).
It in generally known that, among the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), the enzymes
related to collagenase mRNA include MMP-1, MMP-8, MMP-13, and MMP-18 (4).
MMPs also play crucial roles in the degradation of basal membranes and ECM for tumor
metastasis and permeation in situations such as tumor invasion, migration, and host
immune escape, as well as in the destruction of connective tissue due to inflammatory
diseases like rheumatoid arthritis, periodontal disease, osteoarthritis, gastric ulcer, and
arteriosclerosis in pathological conditions (5,6). MMPs can be divided into four catego-
ries according to the preferred substrate: collagenase (MMP-1,8,13,18), gelatinase
(MMP-2,9), stromelysin (MMP-3,10), and membrane-type MMPs (MMP-14,15,16,17)
(7 ,8). Since the enzymatic activity of interstitial collagenase in degrading the collagen
triple helix was reported by Gross and Lapiere in 1962 (9), a considerable amount of
research has been focused on the MMP-1 of these matrix metalloproteinases. Therefore,
it is suggested that the evaluation of the inhibition efficacy of materials on MMP-1 gene
expression could be used as a screening method to find promising candidates that inhibit
the degradation of collagens (10-12).
Elastin is another fibrous protein of the skin. Even though the distribution of elastin is
much lower than that of collagen, elastin has an influence on skin elasticity (13).Because
this elastic fiber is easily decomposed by elastase secretion and activation due to UV or
ROS (reactive oxygen species), an approach that inhibits elastase activity could also be
used as a useful method in protecting against skin aging (14).
Moreover, free radical species and ROS have been of interest to pharmacologists, bio-
chemists, and other health professionals because they cause oxidative damage, and be-
cause substances generated from oxidative stress are believed to cause melanin and
wrinkle formation (15 ).These species are formed by the body, sometimes resulting from
exposure to sunlight, chemicals, and microbes (16). Evidence shows that polymeric
substrates that play roles in retaining the elasticity of the skin, such as collagen, hyal-
uronic acid, and elastin, break down when exposed to active oxygen species (17, 18). In
this study, 60 plants, collected from Jeju Island, were extracted, and their efficacies for
activities, such as scavenging of free radicals that cause photo-aging, inhibition of elastin
degradation by elastase, and inhibition of the expression of MMP-1 to induce wrinkles
on the skin, were evaluated. Because of the regional and climatic diversity, we chose
natural plants living on Jeju Island for this screening.
J eju Island is located south of the Korean Peninsula, and is the largest volcanic island
in the country. The nature of the volcanic island remains well-preserved in its prehistoric
state. Because Mt. Halla rises 1950 meters above sea level in the center of Jeju Island,
the island has the diversity of a plant community at a variety of altitudes and latitudes.
It is generally known that about 1800 plant species exist on this island (19).