60 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
physiopathology of the adipose organ -which acts not only Testing Anticellulite Products
as a control device which regulates the systematic
equilibrium of energy and modulates the food intake and c. Rona•, M. Carrerat and E. Berardescat
the metabolism of other tissue substrate through a multiple
glandular secretion of hormones and parahormones.
Cellulite Histopathology and Related Mechanobiology.
P. Quatresooz, E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, C. Pierard-
Franchimont and G. E. Pierard
Cellulite, sometimes called gynoid lipodystrophy, is much
more prevalent in women than in men. There are glaring
discrepancies regarding the microanatomical descriptions
of this condition in the literature. A lumpy aspect of the
dermo-hypodermal interface is often cited, but it appears to
represent a gender-linked characteristic of the thighs and
buttocks without being a specific sign of cellulite. Incipient
cellulite recognized by a discrete padded look or 'orange
peel' aspect appears correlated with the presence of a
network of focally enlarged fibrosclerotic strands
partitioning the hypodermis and serving as a physiological
buttress limiting the outpouching of fat lobules on pinching
the skin. These connective tissue structures might represent
a hormonal-dependent reactive process to sustained
mechanical tensions caused by the adipocyte lobules. Full
blown cellulite is recognized by a lumpy-bumpy and
dimpled skin surface. It likely represents subjugation of the
hypertrophic response of the hypodermal connective tissue
strands when their resistance is overcome by progressive
fat accumulation. In these cases, histological aspects
reminiscent of striae distensae are identified within the
hypodermal connective tissue strands. The mechanical
properties of skin involved by cellulite process are altered,
but may tend to resume to normal under treatment. These
functional changes influence the mechanobiology of
connective tissue cells, in particular the Factor Xllla-
po sitive dermal dendrocytes.
Determination of Optimal Cream Formulation from Long-
Term Stability Investigation Using a Surface Response
Modelling.
N. Moutai Mostefa•·t, A Hadj Sadokt, N. Sabrit and A.
Hadjit
The aim of this work was to apply an experimental design
to formulate a stable depilatory cream at ambient
temperature. A preliminary study was performed to
optimize the most accurate operating parameteni, which are
then used for the determination of the rheological
properties. Long-term stability of the emulsion
formulations was investigated to obtain the optimal region
of each factor. An experimental design using response
surface modelling was then applied and emulsion stability
was estimated by introducing new characteristic parameters
correlated with the experimental results. An optimal region
characterized with high stability was found and further
explored to verify the effectiveness and tolerance of
depilation. As part of the optimized process, the main
effects of the formulation ingredients were also
investigated.
Cellulite represents the most common lipodystrophic
disease. It affects more likely women than men and it
usually develops in particular anatomic sites such as lateral
thighs and buttocks. In these areas skin resembles 'orange
peel' surface. The pathophysiological aspects of cellulite
are still not clear. Many predisposing factors seem to
influence cellulite onset, including gender, heredity, race,
body weight and age. Hormones and impairment of both
microvascular and lymphatic circulation are considered the
most important etiological factors. The evaluation of
cellulite is based principally on clinical observation, thigh
circumference measurements, body mass index and
thermography but for testing anticellulite products, more
objective and non-invasive methods of evaluation are
requested.
Efficacy of a Multifunctional Plant Complex in the
Treatment of the So-Called 'Cellulite': Clinical and
Instrumental Evaluation.
F. Distante•, P. A Baccit and M. Carrerat
'Cellulite' or more correctly oedemateous fibrosclerotic
panniculopathy, or local lipodystrophy, is a common
aesthetic problem for many women, visually characterized
by the orange peel or dimpled look of the skin, mainly on
the buttocks and thighs. The cause of cellulite is still a
matter of debate. It is currently considered an endocrine-
metabolic microcircu]atory disorder that causes interstitial
matrix alterations and structural changes in subcutaneous
adipose tissue. The first step in cellulite treatment is
stimulation of microcirculation and the removal of
accumulated fluids and toxic elements. This can improve
the intenititial matrix basal regulation, fibroblast activity
and decrease intenititial oedema, with subsequent increase
in lipolysis and a better oxygen and nutrition of the adipose
tissue. In this paper are reported two trials aimed at
evaluating clinically and instrumentally the effects of
different orally administered multifunctional plant extracts-
based formulations in the treatment of cellulite compared
with a placebo.
Cellulite and its Treatment
A. V. Rawlings
The presence of cellulite is an aesthetically unacceptable
cosmetic problem for most post-adolescent women. It is
largely observed in the gluteal-fennoral regions with its
'orange-peel' or 'cottage cheese' appearance. It is not
specific to overweight women although increased
adipogenicity will exacerbate the condition. It is a complex
problem involving the microcirculatory system and

ABSTRACTS 61
lymphatics, the extracellular matrix and the presence of
excess subcutaneous fat that bulges into the dermis. It has
been described as a normal condition that maximizes
subcutaneous fat retention to ensure adequate caloric
availability for pregnancy and lactation. Differences in the
fibrous septae architecture that compartmentalize the
adi
po se tissue have recently been reported in women with
cellulite compared with men. Weight loss has been reported
to improve the cellulite severity by surface topography
measures although in obese subject's skin dimpling does
not seem to change appreciably. However, histological
anal
ys is suggests that fat globules retract out of the dermis
with weight loss. Cellulite has been treated with massage
which decreases tissue oedema but it is also likely to have
its effects at the cellular level by stimulating fibroblast (and
keratinocyte) activity while decreasing adipocyte activity.
In addition to massage, effective topical creams with a
variety of agents were used to ameliorate the condition.
Nevertheless, only a few studies are reported in the
scientific literature. Xanthines, botanicals, fragrances and
ligands for the retinoid and peroxisomal proliferator-
activated receptors appear to be giving some benefit.
Reducing adi
po genesis and increasing thermogenesis
appear to be primary routes and also improving the
microcirculation and collagen synthesis. Many agents are
being investigated for weight management in the
supplement industry [hydroxycitrate, epigallocatechin
gallate, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), etc.] and some of
these agents seem to be beneficial for the treatment of
cellulite. In fact, CLA was proven to ameliorate the signs of
cellulite. One product, Cellasene, containing a variety of
botanicals and
po lyunsaturated fatty acids also appears to
provide some relief from these symptoms. Although more
work is needed, clearly these treatments do improve the
appearance of skin in subjects with cellulite. It is quite
po ssible, however, that synergies between both oral and
topical routes may be the best intervention to ameliorate the
signs and symptoms of cellulite.
Vol. 28, No. 4, 2006*
Expression and Function of Neurotrophins and Their
Receptors in Human Melanocytes
A. Marconi•, M. C. Part7.a•, M. Bonnet-Duquennoyt,
K.Lazou•, R Kurfurstt, F. Truzzi•, R. Lotti•, G. De
Santis•, M. Dumast, F. Bontet and C. Pincelli•
Melanocytes and cells of the nervous system arc of
common ectodermal origin and neurotrophins (NT) have
been shown to be released by human keratinocytes. We
investigated the expression and function of NT [nerve
growth factor (NGF), brain-derived neurotrophic factor
(BDNF), Nf-3, NT-4/-S] and their receptors in human
melanocytes. Human melanocytes produce all Nf in
different amounts, whereas they only release NT-4. Nf-4
release is downregulated, whereas Nf-3 is upregulated by
ultraviolet (UVB) irradiation. Melanocytes treated with
phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) express TrlcA and
TrkB, but not TrkC. Nf fai) to stimulate melanocyte
proliferation, whereas they stimulate the synthesis of
tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-I (TRP-1).
Finally, NT-3, NT-4 and NGF increase melanin production.
Taken together, these results demonstrate an intriguing
interaction between melanocytes and the nervous system.
We speculate that NT could be considered the target of
therapy for disorders of skin pigmentation.
Whitening Effect of a Dermocosmetic Formulation: A
Randomized Double-Blind Controlled Study on Melasma
L. Thirion, C. Pierard-Franchimont and G.E. Pierard
Melasma is an endocrine-mediated facial h
yperm elanosis
with epidermal and occasionally dmnal components. We
tested in a randomized double-blind desism the effect of a
whitening formulation (Thiospot intensi�� on this skin
disorder. The product containing ethyl linoleate, thioctic
acid, octadecenedioic acid, lactic acid and ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate was applied twice daily for 3 months by
20 young women. Another control group of seven women
received a non-skin lightening formulation. Clinical
assessments were made at I-month intervals. In addition,
objective measurements of the hypermelanosis were
performed using narrow-band reflectance
spectrophotometry, image anal
ys is of video-recorded
ultraviolet light reflection (ULEV method) and
photodensitometry of the comeomelametty test A
significant lightening effect was evidenced beginning the
second month of treatment with the whitening formulation.
No significant effect was observed with the control
product.
Protective Effects of Taurine on Human Hair Follicle
Grown in Vitro1
C. Collin•, B. Gautier•, 0. Gailtard•, P. Haltegott, S.
Chabane•, P. Bastient, M Peyront, M Bouleaut, S.
Thibaut•, F. Pruche•, A Duranton• and B. A Bernard•
Taurine is a naturally occurring (3-amino acid produced by
methionine and cysteine metabolism. It is involved in a
variety of ph
ys iological fimctions, including
immunomodulatoty and antifibrotic. Taking advantage of
the ability of human hair follicle grown in vitro to
recapitulate most of the characteristic features of normal
hair follicle in vivo, we studied (i) taurine uptake by
isolated human hair follicles (ii) its effects on hair growth
and survival rate and (iii) its protective potential against
transforming growth factor (TGF)-Pl, an inhibitor of in
vitro hair growth and a master switch of fibrotic program.
We showed that taurine was taken up by the connective
tissue sheath_ oroximal outer root sheath and hair bulb.
promoted hair· survival in vitro and prevented TGF-PI�
induced deleterious effects on hair follicle.