].Cosmet. Sci., 58, 55-57 Qanuary/February 2007)
Abstracts
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan
Vol. 40, No. 4, 2006*
Developing Beauty-Enhancing Makeup by Controlling came to develop a red powdered fiber with a #-shaped
Light Reflected from Skin (I) ---A Makeup Foundation cross-section. This material, with its unique cross section,
Incorporating an Optical Effect of Red Light-- demonstrated an effect of enhancing only the reflectance of
Yukari Sakazaki*, Yuka Suzuki*, Kazuhiro Nishikata**,
Kunihiko Mohri*
*R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1,
Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan
**Product Planning Division, POLA Cosmetics, Inc., 2-2-
3, Nishi-gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-8523, Japan
long wavelength light, without lowering lightness or
chroma. We verified that when this powder was formulated
into a sample foundation and applied to the skin, the skin
appeared more even in tone and looked more attractive
compared to skin to which conventional foundation was
applied
Developing Beauty-Enhancing Makeup by Controlling
Lighting can change the appearance of the skin in a major Light Reflected from Skin (IT) ---A Makeup Foundation
way. Taking notice of the fact that illumination with Producing an Optimal Reflectance Dip on Skin--
enhanced red content is often used to make skin look more
attractive, we evaluated the effect of long wavelength light Yukari Sakazaki*, Yuka Suzuki*, Kazuhiro Nishikata••,
on the appearance of the skin. We developed a light source Kunihiko Mohri"'
that could emit light in any combination of wavelengths,
and used a variety of lights against the skin to conduct a *R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1,
visual evaluation. As a result, we found that skin that was Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan
illuminated with light containing a large percentage of long **Product Planning Division, POLA Cosmetics, Inc., 2-2-
wavelength light of at least 600nm appeared even in tone, 3, Nishi-gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-8523, Japan
with skin faults such as spots and fine wrinkles rendered
less visible. Next, we evaluated the light reflected from the Spectral reflection curves of human skin generally show a
skin. As a result of an evaluation of spectral reflectance and characteristic dip in the 500 to 600 nm range. This "dip" is
skin appearance, we found that as little as a 10% increase in unique for each person, and is believed to be caused by the
the reflectance of long wavelength light contributed to the spectral absorption of blood. We investigated the spectral
enhancement of an even appearance of the skin. We reflectance of human skin and discovered a very interesting
therefore considered methods for incorporating this correlation between the area of the reflectance dip and L*
"flattering effect" to make the skin appear better than it value (lightness of the skin). The Standard Area of
actually is into the development of cosmetic products. We Reflectance Dip (Ads) is defined and calculated from the
engaged in the development of powdered material that correlation we discovered. The Actual Area of Reflectance
would generate the same kind of reflectance as would be Dip (ADa) is calculated from the spectral reflection curve.
generated by illumination with red light. As a result, we The ratio of ADa and ADs was found to be a very useful
*These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of
Cosmetic Science.
55

56 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
optical parameter for skin complexion perception. By framework among the said lipids, is one of new bio-lipids
artificially creating different optical environments and which have begun to be studied in terms of
varying ADa/ ADs from 10% to 200%, we found that skin physicochemical/biological properties and applicabilities.
appeared more beautiful when ADa/ ADs was in the 100- Sphingomyelin is known as a representative
125% range. We therefore considered methods for applying sphingophospholipid. In this study, we tried to use this
these results into the development of cosmetic products.
Investigation and testing of many different pigments
resulted in the development of specially-desi
gn ed
po wdered fiber with a #-shaped cross section dyed
magenta. An experimental foundation with this
po wdered
fiber produced a clear reflectance dip by raising reflectance
in the short and long wavelength ranges. ADa/ ADs
increased from 49% to 107% without reducing lightness
when this makeup foundation was applied on sallow skin.
Evaluation of a Novel Hybrid Polymer in Hair Treatment
Sakiko Uchida, Natsuko Hayashi, Nobuyuki Goto, Sueko
Daikai, Ayako Koyanagi, Masato Yoshioka
sphingomyelin as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly for a
li
po somal formula consisting of the sphingomyelin As a
result, it was found that its barrier (occlu ive) ability
against water eva
po ration was superior to that oflecithin as
a representative glycerophospholipid, due to a higher
rigidity in the bilayer membrane of the li
po some.
Therefore, it is expected that sphingomyelin will show a
complementary effect for damaged intercellular lipid
structures of the stratum corneum when it is applied to skin
care products. In addition, it was demonstrated that a skin
care product with sphingomyelin had a high
moisturizing/emollient ability and an improvement effect
on existing wrinkles.
SEIWA KASEI Co., Ltd., 1-2-14, Nunoichi-cho, Trend on Alternative to Animal Testing
Higashiosaka 579-8004, Japan
Hajime Kojima
Hydrolyzed proteins and silicones have been widely used
and played an important role in hair treatment. Effects on Japanese Center for the Validation of Alternative Methods
hair, of a newly developed hybrid
po lymer consisting of (JaCVAM), Division of Pharmacology, Biological Safety
hydrolyzed protein, alkyl chain and silicone was Research Center, National Institute of Health Sciences 1-
investigated. It was clear that the polymer was effective in 18-1, Kamiyouga, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-8501, Japan
preventing dyed hair from discoloring and in i
mp roving the
moisture feel of hair. It was confirmed that the
po lymer had
good substantivity contributing to hair luster,
manageability, moisture feel, smoothness and good
combability. The above effects were remarkably displayed
especially on damaged hair. Furthermore, a sensory test in
practical use of shampoo even with the polymer highly
diluted supported the above results.
For the promotion of 3R's (Reduction, Refinement,
Replacement) principles of animal tests, the EU and US
established the European Center for the Validation of
Alternative Methods (ECVAM) and the Interagency
Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative
Methods (ICCVAM), respectively. The purpose of these
centers is to detect reliability and relevance of alternative
methods, which should be determined by intra- and inter-
laboratory validation and peer review for their regulatory
Stabilization and Application of Li
po somal Structures acceptance. A similar institute was established in Japan, the
Containing Sphingomyelin Japanese Center for the Validation of Alternative Methods
(JaCVAM) in the National Institute of Health Sciences
Chihiro Kaise, Teruhisa Kaneko (NIHS). However, there are not enough resources in Japan.
It is necessary to cooperate with a Japanese science society
R&D Control Department, SHU UEMURA Inc., 5-7-17, like the Japanese Society of Alternatives to Animal
Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062, Japan Experiments (JSAAE) and a Japanese industry group like
the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA). We are
Cosmetic products with high affinity to the skin have been expecting JaCVAM to contribute to the validation and peer
recently studied, applying liposome and nano-sized review of new alternative methods with supporters and
capsules formed by amphiphiles such as lecithin and other international cooperation for the evaluation of the safety of
lipids to them. Sphingolipid, based on the sphingosine cosmetic ingredients and products.