66 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
This system was characterized by the presence of hydrophilic- environmental conditions at a Q-Lab weathering station in
hydrophobic modified polysaccharide, and the state of the Arizona. The appearance of hair fibers changed dramatically
emulsion could be controlled by the ratio of due to thinning and fusion of scales as well as fusion of
hydrophobic/hydrophilic moieties introduced into the individual hair fibers with each other (inter-fiber fusion) to
pol
ys accharide. form rod-like structures stuck together by solubilized, oozed
out, gelled and finally hardened proteins. The hair became
extremely rigid and brittle with radial cracks forming mostly
Compatibility Testing In Vitro: A Comparison with Jn Vivo smooth radial fractures and occasionally step fractures. There
Patch Test Data was also internal fusion of the cellular structure of the fiber.
Hair fibers were characterized by scanning electron
Thomas Welss1, Wolfgang Matthies2, Klaus Rudolf microscopy (SEM) and IN-visible microspectrophotometry.
Schroeder1 IN-visible spectra showed that natural hair color (melanin)
plays an important role in protecting hair proteins, mostly by
1 VfB Skin Hair Phyiology, Henkel KGaA, Building z33, a sacrificial mechanism. Indian and Chinese black hair,
Henkelstra 67, 40191 Dusseldorf: Germany 2 VTD which are rich in melanin, resist photochemical degradation
BioServices, Henkel KGaA, 40191 Dusseldor( Germany
3 Phenion GmbH& Co. KG, 60439 Frankfurt am Main,
Germany
much better than hair of European origin with moderate, low
or no melanin content
For safety reasons cosmetic formulations have to be assessed
How Cosmetic Science Can Contribute to the Improvement
for putative side effects like skin irritation. The human patch
of Society
test is an appropriate method for this type of assessment, but
it cannot be used for the higher throughput needed for Megan Jones
screening innovative formulations and a distinct assessment is
often difficult. The aim of this study was therefore to Sales Professional Health and Personal Care, Uniquema,
investigate the feasibility of using an in vitro approach for South Africa
compatibility testing to determine the irritancy of surfactants.
Test samples were provided by the German Society of The only constant in life is change and living in South Africa
Cosmetic Chemists (DGK), which conducted a human patch I certainly have witnessed major change during my life,
test study with the same set of samples in parallel. This gave
us the unique opportunity to correlate in vitro with in vivo
data. To assess irritant effects in vitro, reconstructed human
epidermis was exposed to seven coded test samples consisting
of individual anionic surfactants, blends of surfactants, and
controls. A multiple endpoint anal
ys is was established
comprising the viability, cytotoxicity, histology, cytokine
release and differential gene expression. Using this test
strategy, a very good correlation was determined for our in
vitro assessment of compatibility with a theoretical ranking
and the human patch test data.
particularly as our country was transformed from being
governed by the Apartheid regime to a democratically elected
government In order to share my ideas of how cosmetic
science can contribute to the improvement of society, I would
like to address three issues. The first part of my essay will
discuss some of the recent changes in the society we live in
and how these changes have affected our need for cosmetics.
Secondly I will discuss the development'! in cosmetic science
that will be necessary to cope with these changes and finally,
the kind of developments in cosmetic science will be
necessa
ry in order for them to improve our society. Of course,
not all people in our world share the same norms and values
and I will therefore consider a global acceptance of and
Photodegradation of Hair of Different Ethnicity after 1 Year adherence to the Declaration of Human Rights as the ultimate
of Exposure to Natural Weathering in Arizona
Yash K Karnath and Sigrid B. Ruetsch
TRI/Princeton, 601 Prospect Ave., Princeton, NJ 08542,
USA
Natural weathering of hair in a relatively dry hot climate was
carried out by exposing hair of different ethnicity to natural
improvement. On such a level, it should be realized from the
beginning that the influence cosmetic science can have on
society is very limited compared to that of, for instance,
political leaders of our world. Cosmetic science, however,
does make a contribution, although it is only a small step in
the process of improving the world we live i
n, but according
to Confucius the longest journey begins with the first step.
Therefore, let the journey begin ...

ABSTRACTS 67
Influencing the Equilibrium of the Cutaneous Ecosystem to and indirect antimicrobial activity (cathelicidins, □-
Improve the Properties of Skin Prone to Acne
Catherine Lenaers, David Brunet, Katia Ladegaillerie,
Magalie Pinet, Brigitte Closs R&D Department, SILAB,
BP213, 19108 Brive Cedex, France
defensins). These natural antimicrobial peptides limit the
proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and fungi such as
Staphylococcus aureus or Candida albicans and can also
induce an indirect immune response. They are indispensable
for the homeostasis of the cutaneous ecosystem and are over-
expressed by keratinocytes in response to an inflammatory
stimulus or an infection. When these natural defenses are
The skin is colonized by a variety of microorganisms such as disturbed or overwhelmed, they must be stimulated to limit
Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and the inflammatory reactions that result in the appearance of
Malassezia furfur that are in a stable balance and form the skin imperfections such as acne. To this end, we have
resident skin flora. The homeostasis of this ecosystem is of developed an extract purified from Filipendula ulmaria
fundamental importance since it plays a barrier role by (meadowsweet) that is rich in phenolic acids. Tested at 1 %on
limiting the invasion and growth of pathogenic bacteria on
the skin surface. An internal or external change in the skin
environment, a transitory lack of hygiene, a change in
hormone status or hyperseborrhea can upset this balance at
any time and enable the proliferation of saprophytic skin
microorganisms or contamination by pathogens.
Hyperseborrhea causes retention lesions such as open
comedos and closed microcysts that can be transformed into
papulae, pustules or nodules in the case of an inflammatory
reaction caused by abnormal bacterial proliferation. These
skin disorders are particularly pronounced between the ages
of 12 and 25 but nonetheless affect all ages and cause oily
skin accompanied by unsightly imperfections that are difficult
to camouflage and live with. The skin combats microbial
infections with its natural defense system. Keratinocytes
produce and secrete a large number of peptides with direct
human keratinocytes, the F. ulmaria extract stimulated the
natural defense functions of the skin by boosting the synthesis
of cathelicidins by 130%. In addition, when tested in vivo at
4%, the F. ulmaria extract significantly reduced the lipid
index by 12% in 71 %of volunteers after 28 days of twice-
daily treatment The F. ulmaria extract stimulates the natural
defense functions of the skin, preventing the proliferation of
bacteria on the skin surface and thereby limiting
complications from acne: The number of spots and their total
occupied surface were significantly reduced by -10% and -
12%, respectively. Finally, dermatological evaluation after
28 days of twice-daily use showed the capacity of the F.
ulmaria extract to significantly improve the quality of skin
prone to acne: The homogeneity of skin grain was improved
(+21%), the number of inflammatory lesions reduced (-20%)
and the infiltration oflesions decreased (-22%).