ABSTRACTS 61
lymphatics, the extracellular matrix and the presence of
excess subcutaneous fat that bulges into the dermis. It has
been described as a normal condition that maximizes
subcutaneous fat retention to ensure adequate caloric
availability for pregnancy and lactation. Differences in the
fibrous septae architecture that compartmentalize the
adi
po se tissue have recently been reported in women with
cellulite compared with men. Weight loss has been reported
to improve the cellulite severity by surface topography
measures although in obese subject's skin dimpling does
not seem to change appreciably. However, histological
anal
ys is suggests that fat globules retract out of the dermis
with weight loss. Cellulite has been treated with massage
which decreases tissue oedema but it is also likely to have
its effects at the cellular level by stimulating fibroblast (and
keratinocyte) activity while decreasing adipocyte activity.
In addition to massage, effective topical creams with a
variety of agents were used to ameliorate the condition.
Nevertheless, only a few studies are reported in the
scientific literature. Xanthines, botanicals, fragrances and
ligands for the retinoid and peroxisomal proliferator-
activated receptors appear to be giving some benefit.
Reducing adi
po genesis and increasing thermogenesis
appear to be primary routes and also improving the
microcirculation and collagen synthesis. Many agents are
being investigated for weight management in the
supplement industry [hydroxycitrate, epigallocatechin
gallate, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), etc.] and some of
these agents seem to be beneficial for the treatment of
cellulite. In fact, CLA was proven to ameliorate the signs of
cellulite. One product, Cellasene, containing a variety of
botanicals and
po lyunsaturated fatty acids also appears to
provide some relief from these symptoms. Although more
work is needed, clearly these treatments do improve the
appearance of skin in subjects with cellulite. It is quite
po ssible, however, that synergies between both oral and
topical routes may be the best intervention to ameliorate the
signs and symptoms of cellulite.
Vol. 28, No. 4, 2006*
Expression and Function of Neurotrophins and Their
Receptors in Human Melanocytes
A. Marconi•, M. C. Part7.a•, M. Bonnet-Duquennoyt,
K.Lazou•, R Kurfurstt, F. Truzzi•, R. Lotti•, G. De
Santis•, M. Dumast, F. Bontet and C. Pincelli•
Melanocytes and cells of the nervous system arc of
common ectodermal origin and neurotrophins (NT) have
been shown to be released by human keratinocytes. We
investigated the expression and function of NT [nerve
growth factor (NGF), brain-derived neurotrophic factor
(BDNF), Nf-3, NT-4/-S] and their receptors in human
melanocytes. Human melanocytes produce all Nf in
different amounts, whereas they only release NT-4. Nf-4
release is downregulated, whereas Nf-3 is upregulated by
ultraviolet (UVB) irradiation. Melanocytes treated with
phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) express TrlcA and
TrkB, but not TrkC. Nf fai) to stimulate melanocyte
proliferation, whereas they stimulate the synthesis of
tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-I (TRP-1).
Finally, NT-3, NT-4 and NGF increase melanin production.
Taken together, these results demonstrate an intriguing
interaction between melanocytes and the nervous system.
We speculate that NT could be considered the target of
therapy for disorders of skin pigmentation.
Whitening Effect of a Dermocosmetic Formulation: A
Randomized Double-Blind Controlled Study on Melasma
L. Thirion, C. Pierard-Franchimont and G.E. Pierard
Melasma is an endocrine-mediated facial h
yperm elanosis
with epidermal and occasionally dmnal components. We
tested in a randomized double-blind desism the effect of a
whitening formulation (Thiospot intensi�� on this skin
disorder. The product containing ethyl linoleate, thioctic
acid, octadecenedioic acid, lactic acid and ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate was applied twice daily for 3 months by
20 young women. Another control group of seven women
received a non-skin lightening formulation. Clinical
assessments were made at I-month intervals. In addition,
objective measurements of the hypermelanosis were
performed using narrow-band reflectance
spectrophotometry, image anal
ys is of video-recorded
ultraviolet light reflection (ULEV method) and
photodensitometry of the comeomelametty test A
significant lightening effect was evidenced beginning the
second month of treatment with the whitening formulation.
No significant effect was observed with the control
product.
Protective Effects of Taurine on Human Hair Follicle
Grown in Vitro1
C. Collin•, B. Gautier•, 0. Gailtard•, P. Haltegott, S.
Chabane•, P. Bastient, M Peyront, M Bouleaut, S.
Thibaut•, F. Pruche•, A Duranton• and B. A Bernard•
Taurine is a naturally occurring (3-amino acid produced by
methionine and cysteine metabolism. It is involved in a
variety of ph
ys iological fimctions, including
immunomodulatoty and antifibrotic. Taking advantage of
the ability of human hair follicle grown in vitro to
recapitulate most of the characteristic features of normal
hair follicle in vivo, we studied (i) taurine uptake by
isolated human hair follicles (ii) its effects on hair growth
and survival rate and (iii) its protective potential against
transforming growth factor (TGF)-Pl, an inhibitor of in
vitro hair growth and a master switch of fibrotic program.
We showed that taurine was taken up by the connective
tissue sheath_ oroximal outer root sheath and hair bulb.
promoted hair· survival in vitro and prevented TGF-PI�
induced deleterious effects on hair follicle.
62 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
New Antiaxillary Odour Deodorant Made With
Antimicrobial Ag-zeolite (Silver-Exchanged Zeolite)
T. Nakane•, H. Gomyot, I. Sasakil, Y. Kimoto§, N.
Hanz.awa,i, Y. Teshima§ and T. Namba§
The causative substances for axillary osmidrosis, which are
often found in apocrine sweat, are the
decomposed/denatured products of short-chain fatty acid
and other biological metabolite compounds produced by
axillary-resident bacteria. Conventional underarm
deodorants suppress the process of odour production
mostly by the following mechanism: (1) suppression of
perspiration, (2) reduction in numbers of resident bacteria,
(3) deodorization and (4) masking. The most important and
effective method to reduce odour is to suppress the growth
of resident bacteria with antimicrobials, which have several
drawbacks, especially in their safety aspect To solve these
problems, we focused on Ag-zeolite (silver-exchanged
zeolite) that hold stable Ag, an inorganic bactericidal agent,
in its structure, and therefore, poses less risk in safety. Its
bactericidal effect on skin-resident bacteria was found to be
excellent and comparable with that of triclosan, a most
frequently used organic antimicrobial in this product
category. The dose-response study of Ag-zeolite powder
spray (0--40 w/w%) using 39 volunteers revealed that 5-
40 w/w% Ag-zeolite could show a sufficient antimicrobial
effect against skin-resident bacteria. The comparison study
u. ing 0.2 w/w% triclosan as the control and IO w/w°/4 Ag-
zeolite indicated that: (1) one application of the powder
spray containing IO w/w°/4 Ag-zeolite could show a
sufficient antimicrobial effect against the resident bacteria
and its effect continued for 24 h, (2) a powder spray
containing 0.2 w/w% triclosan was unable to show a
sufficient antimicrobial effect, and (3) no adverse event
was observed. These studies show that Ag-zeolite has a
superior antimicrobial ability that is rarely found in
conventional antimicrobials used in deodorant products and
a strong antiaxillary odour deodorant ability because of its
long-lasting effect. During clinical study, patch tests with
humans and other clinical studies of this product showed no
adverse events related to the treatment with the Ag-zeolite
product.
Induction of The Skin Edogenous Potective Mitochondrial
MnSOD by Vitreoscilla Filiformis Extract
Y. F. Mahe•, R Martint, L. Aubertl, N. Billoni •, C.
Collin•, F. Pruche•, P. Bastien•, S. S. Drost§, A. T. Lane§
and A Meybeck•
Vitreoscilla filiformis (Vf), a filamentous bacteria living in
fresh water is thought to contribute to the observed
beneficial effects of Spa water on skin. An active fraction
obtained from a Vf biomass was evaluated for its ability to
modulate mRNA expression in cultured skin cells. cDNA
amy analysis was conducted first using a customized
membrane including 1176 selected and fully identified
genes involved in skin physiology and homeostasis then the
newly developed full genome Ul33 plus 2.0 GeneChip
from Affymetrix. The mitochondrial protective manganese
superoxide dismutase (MnSOD/SOD-2) was identified as a
preferentially induced mRNA target in both normal human
dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Induction at the
transcriptional level in both cell types was confirmed using
quantitative real time/polymerase chain reaction and a
kinetic analysis revealed a maximal increase in mRNA
expression 20 h after stimulation with Vf extract (Vfe).
Using immunofluorescent (fluorescent cell sorter) anal
ys is,
an induction of MnSOD protein in both normal human
dermal skin fibroblasts (xl.6 P 0.01) and epidermal
keratinocytes (xl.4 P 0.01) was confirmed. As MnSOD
is a major inducible free-radical scavenger in skin, these
results suggest that the Vfe could induce skin cells to
produce their own endogenous protective defences in vivo
against both exogenous environmental stressors such as UV
irradiation or microflora as well as to combat endogenous
sources of deleterious free radicals involved in skin ageing.
Finally, in order to confirm the in vivo potential of this
original extract in human, we evaluated its protective
activity vs. placebo on the generation of sunburn cells in
epidermis under UVB stress. As expected from in vitro
profiJing, Vfe was indeed fmmd to significantly inhibit the
appearance of sunburn cells in UVB-exposed areas, a
signature of skin alteration which has been suggested to be
linked to a defect in MnSOD protective activity.
Altogether, those data suggest that the combination of a
suitable protective UV filter together with this bioactive
Vfe might improve skin protection through complementary
pathways.
Stress and The Skin
J. Hosoi
'The skin is the mirror which reflects the state of the
mind."The skin is the window of the mind.' These have
been proverbs since ancient times. It is the topic of this
article. Our life became convenient with the information
technology these days but too much information often
drives us on. We suffer from mental stress rather than
physical stress. Since Selye advocated stress reaction,
various reactions in the body have been described. Skin is
also a target organ of the stress reaction. What the effects of
stress are and how stress affects the skin are summarized in
this review. Possible use of fragrance for the regulation of
the stress reaction is also introduced.
Artocarpus Lakoocha Heartwood Extract As a Novel
Cosmetic Ingredient Evaluation of The In Vitro Anti-
Tyrosinase and In Vivo Skin Whitening Activities
P. Tengamnua�, K Pengrungruangwong•, I. Pheansri•
and K Likhitwitayawuidt
The heartwood extract of Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. was
evaluated for the in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity and
the in vivo melanin-reducing efficacy in human volunteers.
The IC,0 of the extract and oxyresveratrol, its major active
ingredient, against mushroom tyrosinase was determined to
be 0.76 and 0.83 J,lg mL .,.,_.',respectively. The extract
dissolved in propylene glycol was subsequently tested in
female volunteeB using a parallel clinical trial with self-
control (n =20 per group). The first group received the
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