J. Cosmet. Sci., 63, 119–131 (March/April 2012) 119 Development of photochemoprotective herbs containing cosmetic formulations for improving skin properties SWARNLATA SARAF, SUMIT KOUR CHHABRA, CHANCHAL DEEP KAUR, and SHAILENDRA SARAF, University Institute of Pharmacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur (C.G.), India 492010. Accepted for publication October 6, 2011. Synopsis Botanical photochemoprotectives are used because they act on various stages to prevent skin cancer and pho- toaging. The aim of this study was to prepare herbal creams from various photochemoprotective herbs and to perform effi cacy studies on them by using physicochemical, microbiological, safety, psychometric, biophysi- cal, and sun protection factor measurements. Herbal creams were prepared by incorporating hydroalcoholic extracts of Curcuma caesia (rhizome), Areca catechu (seeds), Centella asiatica (leaves) Cinnamon zeylanicum (dried bark), and Tamarindus indica (fruit pulp) in varied concentrations (1–5% w/w) in a base cream. The effi cacy of all formulations was checked out for four weeks on 60 normal subjects on the volar forearm for evaluation of biophysical properties, and for psychometric evaluations (fragrance, lathery feel, softness, irritation, sticki- ness, smoothness, and aftereffect on the skin) and safety measurements. In the biophysical characterization, a cutometer for viscoelasticity, a mexameter for melanin content, a corneometer for hydration, and a sebumeter for sebum determination were used. All the cream formulations with 1% and 3% w/w extracts showed posi- tive results and passed physicochemical, microbiological, and safety tests. The SPF values increased as the concentration of extract was increased up to a limit in the formulations. The SPF values were signifi cantly higher (p 0.01) in formulations with 3% herbal extract than with 1% herbal extract. Increased skin hydra- tion, sebum levels, viscoelasticity, and decreased melanin values were obtained. The Cinnamon, Centella, and Tamarindus formulations were found more effective as photoprotectives than the Areca and Curcuma formulations. INTRODUCTION Photochemoprotective agents are capable of preventing the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, which are caused by excessive generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The induction of oxidative stress and imbalance of the antioxidant defense system leads to infl ammation, photoaging, systemic immunosuppression, and skin cancer (1). Botanical agents may work in various ways: by stimulating the immune response, by inducing or suppressing gene action, by detoxifying carcinogens, by blocking oxidative damage to DNA, and by initiating selected signaling pathways and other mechanisms Address all correspondence to Swarnlata Saraf at swarnlata—saraf@rediffmail.com.