ANTHOCYANINS AS NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO SYNTHETIC COLORS FOR LIPSTICK 239 lipstick formulations using traditional colorants: D&C Red #7 lakes, mica red, and car- mine at identical concentrations. The commercial brands chosen were shades of orange/red (Sample 1 and 2), red (Sample 3 and 4), dark red (Samples 5 and 6), and varying shades of pink-red to purple-red (Brand 7–9). The hue angle for the red radish formulation was the most similar to the commer- cial brands, especially for Samples 4–6. The hue angle of red radish was closest to those observed with the D&C #7 sample (Sample 2, hue angle: 20.05°) and nearly identical to the mica red sample (Sample 6, hue angle: 14.43°). The hue angles for purple carrot (initial hue: 354.44°) and purple corn (initial hue: 350.45°) were very similar to those observed with the carmine lipstick (Sample 9, hue angle: 352.03°). The hue angles for the red grape (1.42°) and purple sweet potato (1.61°) fell slightly above those seen with the carmine lipstick however, all three were a reddish- pink hue similar to Samples 7–9. The elderberry formulation was more purple than the commercial samples but was still deemed visually acceptable for use in a lip product. COLOR CHANGES DURING AN ACCELERATED ENVIRONMENTAL TESTING Accelerated environmental testing conditions were implemented to help predict the shelf stability of the ACN-based lipstick formulations. Color measurements, as well as visual inspections, were used to assess the samples at each condition. An accelerated environ- mental testing is commonly used in the cosmetic industry to predict shelf life of new products (24). Although each company will have their own set of testing parameters, it is commonly assumed that a product showing stability after 10 weeks at 45°C will have an estimated shelf life of 2 year at room temperature (26). Moreover, it is generally recommended that lipsticks should be discarded after 2 year and “natural” lip products be discarded Table III Color and Hue Angle of Preliminary ACN-Colored Lipsticks Compared with Commercial Lipstick Samples and Samples Colored with Non-ACN Pigments Reference samplesa ACN-colored lipsticks Hue Color Hue Color ΔE* Sample 1 21.4 Orange/Red Strawberry 18.2 Orange/Red 15.1 Sample 2a 20.1 Orange/Red Red radish 14.9 Red 0.7 Sample 3 15.8 Red Purple sweet potato 1.6 Pink/Red 0.2 Sample 4 15.4 Red Red grape 1.4 Pink/Red 0.3 Sample 5 14.5 Dark Red Purple carrot 354.4 Pink 0.4 Sample 6† 14.4 Dark Red Purple corn 350.5 Purple/Pink 0.6 Sample 7 8.0 Berry Red Hibiscus 349.1 Purple/Pink 12.8 Sample 8 6.8 Pink/Red Elderberry 318.3 Purple 0.4 Sample 9‡ 352.0 Pink/Purple Red cabbage 298.3 Purple/Blue — ΔE* represents the color change over 6-weeks storage at room temperature as compared to their original color for ACN-lipsticks as part of a preliminary selection process. a Reference samples were commercial brands or lipstick formulations prepared with nonanthocyanin pigments formulated with D&C Red #7. b Reference samples were commercial brands or lipstick formulations prepared with nonanthocyanin pig- ments formulated with Mica Red.cReference samples were commercial brands or lipstick formulations pre- pared with nonanthocyanin pigments formulated with Carmine.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 240 within 12 mo of opening, known as the period after opening (27). These recommenda- tions were used as a guideline for interpreting the results of the stability testing. Initial and fi nal measurements for L*, a*, c*, h°, and dE* all formulas can be seen in Table IV. Although individual variations occurred within groups and between formulations, some gen- eralizations can be observed. Overall, increased stability was shown with formulations con- taining cyanidin (elderberry) and acylated cyanidin (purple corn and purple sweet potato). Changes in lightness (L*) were minute for all formulas across all treatments (2.5). All samples were slightly darker at the conclusion of the 12 weeks at 45°C. Changes in red- ness (a*) of the samples were not statistically signifi cant (p value  0.01) for all treat- ments, with the exception of the red radish formula at 37° and 45°C. The elderberry and purple corn formulations showed the smallest changes in a* across treatments, and the red grape and red radish showed the greatest changes. Changes in chroma (c*), followed a similar pattern with changes in a*, with the smallest changes observed with the elder- berry and purple corn lipsticks. Interestingly, both elderberry and purple corn formulas showed increased color intensity at 20°C after 12 weeks. T able IV Initial and Final CIELab Color of ACN-Lipstick Formulations at Accelerated Environmental Testing Conditions Elderberry Purple sweet potato Temperature L* a* c* h° ΔE* Temperature L* a* c* h° ΔE* Initial 29.09 1.80 2.41 318.64 0.00 Initial 29.98 6.43 6.45 361.61 0.00 -20°/20°C 29.33 2.39 2.92 325.40 0.73 -20°/20°C 31.98 6.14 6.16 355.90 0.66 20°/37°C 29.18 1.94 2.47 321.98 0.26 20°/37°C 30.22 5.53 5.54 359.36 1.09 20°C 28.78 3.07 3.31 338.45 1.78 20°C 31.54 5.85 5.89 354.17 1.99 37°C 27.40 2.99 3.19 339.29 1.97 37°C 30.18 4.28 4.40 346.65 2.80 45°C 27.99 1.94 2.29 328.24 1.27 45°C 28.82 4.52 4.57 351.43 2.36 Purple carrot Red grape Temperature L* a* c* h° ΔE* Temperature L* a* c* h° ΔE* Initial 33.63 7.97 8.01 354.44 0.00 Initial 35.30 9.66 9.66 1.42 0.00 -20°/20°C 33.95 7.55 7.61 353.27 0.93 -20°/20°C 34.85 9.47 9.47 0.59 0.41 20°/37°C 33.76 7.22 7.28 352.53 0.44 20°/37°C 34.88 9.16 9.16 0.81 0.33 20°C 32.85 9.25 9.27 356.63 1.28 20°C 36.88 9.25 9.27 3.33 0.89 37°C 33.93 8.87 8.92 355.25 1.07 37°C 33.00 8.94 8.96 2.79 1.65 45°C 32.09 6.29 6.45 347.25 3.21 45°C 32.82 6.95 6.96 0.19 3.95 Purple corn Red radish Temperature L* a* c* h° ΔE* Temperature L* a* c* h° ΔE* Initial 28.65 3.72 3.77 350.45 0.00 Initial 29.37 13.75 14.20 14.34 0.00 -20°/20°C 29.54 4.08 4.13 350.72 0.81 -20°/20°C 30.54 13.07 13.45 13.51 0.68 20°/37°C 28.83 3.67 3.73 350.34 0.38 20°/37°C 29.97 12.15 12.35 10.26 1.76 20°C 27.42 4.81 4.83 355.92 1.65 20°C 29.47 11.62 11.82 10.42 1.80 37°C 26.75 3.77 3.83 354.52 1.68 37°C 28.48 9.57 9.66 7.68 3.83 45°C 27.09 3.90 3.94 352.35 1.18 45°C 28.75 9.22 9.30 7.36 4.22 Measurements presented for cycling conditions (-20°/20°C and 20°/37°C) are after six 48-h cycles. Measure- ments shown for constant accelerated conditions (20°, 37°, and 45°C) are after 12 weeks incubation. All re- sults shown are means (n = 9).