CHEMISTRY OF ACETOGLYCERIDES AND THEIR USES IN COSMETICS 47 PHYSIOLOGICAL •EFFECTS Intensive investigation of the dermatological and physiological properties of acetoglycerides have shown that they are entirely harmless and non-toxica,•,*. APPLICATIONS OF ACETOGLYCERIDES IN COSMETICS The manner in which the novel properties of acetoglycerides are reflected in the final preparations can be illustrated best by considering their use in particular types of cosmetic formulations. (A) LIPSTICKS One of the most striking applications of acetoglycerides is in the formulation of lipsticks, in which field they have been enthusiastically adopted. They are not substitutes for materials which have been used in lipstick manufacture hitherto, but are of outstanding value by virtue of the unique properties which they impart.

48 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The thixotropic properties of acetoglyceride/wax blends allow the production of non-greasy lipsticks of good appearance and texture which are firm, but not brittle, over a wide temperature range, and which may be applied evenly and smoothly to the lips. Properly formulated lipsticks containing acetoglycerides will not only have a good initial appearance, but will not bloom on storage. They will neither fracture easily in cold conditions, nor will they buckle and become deformed under tropical conditions. A further property of acetoglycerides which is worthy of attention is that, although they are not themselves solvents for eosin dyes, they are compatible with the normal solvents used for this purpose. In the experience of the author, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate has proved extremely efficient as an eosin solvent in lipsticks containing acetoglycerides. Below are given a number of formulae for lipsticks containing aceto- glycerides. If lipsticks made in accordance with these formula• are com- pared with similar products containing no acetoglycerides, the advantages of the former will be readily apparent. LIPSTICK FORMULAE Parts by weight 1 2 3 Acetoglyceride S/C ......... -- 8 Acetoglyceride S/C/1 ......... 20 20 10 Acetoglyceride L/C ......... 12 10 10 Lanolin ............... 6 6 7 Castor oil (first quality) ......... 22 24 26 Ozokerite ............... 5 8 9 Beeswax ............ -9 9 10 Carnauba wax ............ 3 4 4 Di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate ...... 5 5 5 Colour (lake colours and acid eosin) ... q.s. q.s. q.s. Perfume ............ q.s. q.s. q.s. Method Mix together the castor oil and Acetoglyceride L/C. Add sufficient of this mixture to the lake colours to form a stiff paste, and pass through a triple roll mill. Disperse the acid eosin in the di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, add this dispersion to the blend of lake colours in oil, and pass again through the triple roll mill--this time with the nip finely adjusted. Heat together the waxes (including Acetoglyceride S/C and/or S/C/l) and remainder oi