CHEMISTRY OF ACETOGLYCERIDES AND THEIR USES IN COSMETICS 51 Method Heat a solution of the preservative in water to a temperature of about 80 ø C. and add it, with rapid stirring, to a mixture of the oils and waxes-- also heated to the same temperature. Continue stirring until the tempera- ture has dropped to about 35-40 ø C. add the pertume, and homogenise the crearrf. (c) SHaYINC CREAMS For preparations such as shaving creams, liquid acetoglycerides are recommended as, apart from improving the appearance and feel of the product, they leave the skin softer after shaving. (Acetoglycerides are not normally used as replacements for glycerol.) A shaving cream prepared in accordance with the formula given below dried only very slightly on the face, and gave an effective soft feel to the skin, leaving the latter entirely free from soreness. Parts by weight { Acetoglyceride L/C ......... 5 A • Stearic acid ......... 32 / Olive oil ............ 5 (Glycerol ............ 8 ]Triethanolamine ..... . ... 2 B tCaustic potash (solid) ..... 6 WateI (softened or distilled) ... 44 \Preservative ........... 0.1 Perfume ............ q.s. Method Dissolve the triethanolamine, glycerol, ca ustic potash and preservative in the water (part B), and heat to a'temperature of about 75 ø C. Mix together the constituents of part A, and heat these also to the same temperature. When a uniform mixture has been obtained, add part B to part A an d stir thoroughly until an even cream is produced. Cool, and incorporate the perfume. Allow to stand overnight, and stir again for about 20 minutes. (d) ANTI-SUNBURN CREAMS AND LOTIONS Acetoglycerides are of particular interest for the formulation of creams and lotions which yield a continuous non-greasy film. (e) HaND CREAMS aNI) LOTIONS In hand creams and lotions, acetoglycerides are of special value as they can be used in the formulation of non-greasy products which have a desirable emollient and softening effect on the skin. A typical formula
52 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS for a hand lotion incorporating acetoglycerides is given under the section headed "Lotions." (f) MEDICATED CREAMS AND OINTMENT BASES By virtue of the ease with which oil-in-water creams and lotions con- taining acetoglycerides are absorbed by the skin, such preparations are especially suitable for use as bases for ointments and medicated creams and lotions. The acetoglycerides are compatible with most of the active constituents of such preparations, and their use ensures close contact of the medicament with the tissues. (c) LOTIONS (a) EMU•.SIFIEr) LOTIONS Solid grades of acetoglycerides can be used in emulsified lotions, but liquid grades are normally preferred. Here the most important property is a high rate of absorption by the skin and the ability to yield not only lotions of desirable consistency, but also ones which will remain stable over long periods of storage and throughout marked temperature variations. In hand lotions and anti-sunburn lotions, the desirable emollient and softening effects which acetoglycerides have on the skin, coupled with the ability to yield continuous non-greasy films, are of considerable importance. The following formula for a hand lotion is typical of preparations of this type: Parts by weight i Acetoglyceride L/C ......... 10 Methyl Stearate ...... 3 Cosmetic paraffin oil ...... 5 Propylene glycol ......... 10 Polyethylene glycol monostearate ... 6 ! Sodium carboxymethylcellulose ... 0.5 [Water (softened or distilled) ... 64 Method Heat the constituents of part A to a temperature of about 75 ø C., and stir until evenly mixed. Stir together the constituents of part B at a similar temperature, and then add part A to part B with thorough stirring. Homogenise, cool, and incorporate the perfume. Allow to stand overnight, and stir again for about 20 minutes. (b) ALCOHOLIC LOTIONS The compatibility of acetoglycerides with a wide variety of materials, coupled with their excellent solvent power and absence of greasiness, has
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