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J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 25 33-48 (1974) ¸ 1974 Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain Specialized techniques for the analysis of cosmetics and toiletries D. M. GABRIEL* Presented on the 7th December 1972 at the Royal Society of Arts to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain. Synopsis--It is only during the last century that scientific principles have been applied to the development of cosmetics and toiletries, but during the same span of time there have been dramatic advances in ANALYTICAL TECHNIQUES, many of which have been applied to solve particular analytical problems associated with this industry. Modern analysis is generally a two stage procedure--first the SEPARATION and ISOLA- TION of the various components of interest followed by CHARACTERIZATION, IDENTI- FICATION and ESTIMATION. Examples illustrate the use of a wide range of techniques which have been applied to the analysis of SHAMPOOS, AEROSOL HAIRSPRAYS, HAIRDRESSINGS, TOOTHPASTES, ANTIPERSPIRANT/DEODORANTS and TALCUM POWDERS. A suggested reading list is appended. INTRODUCTION The origins of the cosmetics and toiletries industry lie way back in history before the 5th century s.c. when aromatics and unguents were used for the religious purposes of anointing and embalming. These odorous and oily substances were derived from natural sources but the cornpounders and users were unaware of their complexity. All that mattered was the skill of the cornpounder and the functionality of these highly valued products. It is only during the last century that science has been applied to the development of products for the hygienic care and embellishment of the * Unilever Research, Isleworth Laboratory, Unilever Ltd, 455 London Road, Isleworth, Middlesex. 33