520 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS soap. We do not know what exactly would have been considered the "active" ingredient. Our protocol was to do the following (1) make BEFORE replica (2) wash with experimental soap (3) rinse off soapy water (4) wait 30 min. (for maximum chapping effects to occur) and (5) make AFTER replica. In the BEFORE, we can see all of the manifestations of "bad" skin name- ly the uplifting layers, (see arrows) which are general and cover the area. After one washing, the subject felt better, the original chapped appearance xvas nowhere near as prevalent, but most important, there was a dramatic reduction in the number of uplifting layers. Whenever we run this particular protocol, we generally run Ivory soap* as a control on the other hand, and we have never seen an improvement of this type •vith Ivory soap. Hence, we can be confident the effect is due to the soap used and is not caused by some other parameter. Furthermore, the Ivory soap control acts as proof that any smoothing effects cannot be explained in ternas of a cleansing effect of the replicating material. B. Abradent Cleanser It is well accepted that the skin clinically feels smoother after the applica- tion of an abradent facial cleanser. Figure 5 shows the uplifting layers present in the BEFORE, but, which are removed in the AFTER. Hence, again we see a process which results in a beneficial clinical effect once the uplifting layers are removed. Surely no one would call this "Moisturization," but we have "improved" the skin by removing the uplifting material. For a control, on the opposite side, we apply soap and water only. Soap and water does have an effect, but certainly nowhere even approaching the effect of the abradent cleanser. Hence, in this instance, not only can we demon- strate the efficacy of an abradent product, but we can demonstrate superiority. C. Moisturizing Hand Lotion Certainly, it is recognized that the application of many of the common lotions and creams presently available will improve and bring relief to suffer- ers of dry or chapped skin. Are these "moisturizing" products really adding moisture to the stratum corncure? Or are their beneficial effects obtained by some other mechanism? Figure 6 gives an excellent insight into the mecha- nism of what really happens. Initially, there is a complete coverage and, even though the product is rubbed in, at these magnifications, we very clearly see the covering. Water alone will not cause this effect and as previously pointed out, water alone shows virtually no change whatsoever. Is this moisturization? *Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH.

SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPY 521 • .•% ::..:•-•:4:.• :•'•: •',•':• ß :..':. • ß ' 4 • i ..:'... •.:' •:• •:•"" '•'::'::•' '"':•'•" / •. '•.-'St:. (.' :[-: .• ... •'.' • •: "% ß ,:.. E'?:? ........ :" ..... '%....: .:.,,::..:. . .... :.:L• •j .'.- : :.•::.•? . .:'.•. ...'_ .. :... '•':•'*i'""' .'."'%.. ?: ' "::::•)'" [• ::,?? :: ß . :: ... . ..-:•.::.:: ..,.....:': •4•..:'• .......: %....'.'.:. • (a) (b) Figure 5. SEM montages of dry facial (female subject, upper 40's): (a) before and (b) after cleansing with abradent facial cleanser. Uplifting layers present originally (arrow A) are removed during treatment. To lower right is small comedon that has been partially cleaned during process (arrow B). Fiber appearing material is facial hair (arrow C). Scale bars represent 50/•m Maybe it is and maybe it is not depending on how one defines moisturization, but clearly the total effect is far beyond what water alone will do. In any case, we can define a definite improvcment as measured by the reduction of the uplifting layers of stratum corneum, even if their absence is due to their being covered up. During the time of the experiment, the subject certainly experienced a beneficial clinical effect, the skin felt softer, and in general, the subject would have perceived the skin was moisturized. D. Active Ingredients: (soluble collagen, protein, and special cellulosic-type polymers) In the last several years, much attention has been focused on the efficacy of certain active raw ingredients when incorporated into skin care products. We have examined many of them, and some do seem to have an effect, and we can follow the changes brought about by these materials through replica studies. One such study was performed in collaboration with Kurt Neulinger (14) utilizing the following protocol on a chapped skin subject. 1. The back of the hand was soaked for 10 min. in 5 per cent sodium lauryl sulfate solution to further roughen the skin. After waiting 20 min, the BE- FORE replica was made (Figure 7(a)).