792 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 2. For flyaway, static charge is the determining factor. 3. Body depends on static friction, fiber diameter, fiber stiffness and curvature, while limpness is too little body. For most products, except permanent waves and straighteners, changes in fiber curvature are not relevant and changes in fiber diameter and stiffness are negligible. 4. Manageability depends on frictional effects, static charge and fiber curvature. For most products except permanent waves and straighteners, fiber curvature is unchanged, leaving static friction, kinetic friction and static charge as the determining factors. Increasing static friction makes hair more manageable, while increasing kinetic friction makes it less manageable. 5. For style retention, static friction (including cohesive forces) and fiber curvature are the determining factors and for most products, except permanent waves and straighteners, static friction is the determining factor. Equations as depicted in this manuscript can provide guidance for developing and documenting different hair products. Improvement in single fiber methods should permit the equations to approach more quantitative forms. With Hough et al. (1), we recommend further discussions and definitions of important cosmetic terms. REFERENCES (1) P.S. Hough, J. E. Huey and W. S. Tolgyesi, Hair body, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 27,571 (1976). (2) M. Harris, "Handbook of Textile Fibers," 1st Ed., Harris Research Laboratories, Inc. Washington, D.C. (1954). (3) "Modern Beauty Shop Magazine," December 1957. (4) N. E. Yin, R. H. Kissinger, W. S. Tolgyesi and E. M. Cottington, The effect of fiber diameter on the cosmetic aspects of hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 139 (1977). (5) A. Schwartz and D. Knowles, Frictional effects in human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 14, 455 (1%3). (6) G. Scott and C. Robbins, A convenient method for measuring fiber stiffness, Text. Res. J., 39, 975 (1%9). (7) G. Scott and C. Robbins, Stiffness of human hair fibers, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., in press. (8) S. Hersh, Static Electrification of Fibrous Materials, Ph.D. Thesis, Princeton University (April 1954). (9) N. Barnard and H. White, The swelling of hair and a viscose rayon monofil in aqueous solution, Text. Res. J., 24, 695 (1954). (10) D. Montgomery and W. Milloway, The vibrascopic method for determination of fiber cross-sectional area, Text. Res. J., 22, 729 (1952). (11) M. Garcia and J. Diary, Combability measurements on human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 379 (1976). (12) W. Newman et al., A quantitative characterization of combing force, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 24 773 (1973). (13) C. Mills et al., Measurement of static charge on hair, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 7, 466 (1956). (14) R. Barber and A. Posner, A method for studying the static electricity produced by hair on combing,J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 10, 236 (1959). (15) A. Lunn and R. Euano, The electrostatic properties of human hair, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 549 (1977). (16) N. Gralen and B. Olofsson, Measurement of friction between single fibers, Text. Res. J., 17, 488 (1947).
Book Reviews RECENT ADVANCES IN DERMATO-PHARMA- COLOG¾, Edited by Phillip Frost, M.D., Edward C. Gomez, M.D., Ph.D., and Nardo Zaias, M.D., Spectrum Publications, Inc., New York, 1978, 259 pages. Price $17.50. The book compiled presentations that were made at a meeting held at Mt. Sinai Medical Center of Greater Miami in August of 1975. As such, some of the information is not "recent," nor are some of the chapters. However the book will provide a review for the practicing derma- tologist about some recent breakthroughs in the areas of dermatology therapeutics the researcher will have known about these advances some time ago. Among the materials presented that are of recent nature are: the immunological transfer factor involved in candidrasis and other infectious diseases the management of pemphigus with gold compound, as well as the use of thalidomide for polymorphous light-like eruptions in American Indians. Chapters on evaluating new potent topi- cal steroids, as well as the adrenal effect of the same, should round out and update the practicing dermatologist in the area of steroid potency. Discussion on topical nonsteroidal antiinflammatory agents is quite limited as dictated by the limited knowledge in this field of the usefulness of these agents in diseased conditions. Chap- ters on mycophenolic acid, puva therapy, coal tar gel therapy and management of hyperkeratosis with alphahydroxy acid and salicylic acid may be new to the practicing dermatologist who has not kept up with the Journals, but does provide a repository of information which has appeared in Jour- nals. The information provided in these subjects cannot be considered of recent vintage, but is informative in updating the practicing practicioner. The chapters on Delivery System, bio- availability of griseofulvin in the recent ultra microsize form, are somewhat out- dated and could have been enhanced by the review of topical griseofulvin therapy and its potential. Similarly information on new antifungal agents of the imadazole variety are limited in value since they do not provide comparisons with other known antifungal agents which have been on the market for a longer period of time. The chapters on cortical steroid/anti- biotic combination pros and cons make for interesting reading and the problem is still being debated by the FDA and Antimicro- bial II panel. The discussion of pharmacdynamics of silver sulfurdiazine is quite old. It first appeared in the literature in the 60's and truly does not fit into the category of recent advances, although we may better under- stand the mechanism of action of these agents now than we did a decade ago. 793
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