326 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (8) K. V. Curry and S. Golding, Hair lipids I. The extraction of fatty materials from hair clippings,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 681 (1971). (9) A. W. Weitkamp, A.M. Smiljanic, and S. Rothman, The free fatty acids of human hair fat, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 69, 1936 (1947). (10) B. Krotoszynski, L. L. Gershbein, and S. B. Needleman, Properties of hair fat from adult males according to race and hair condition,J. Invest. DermatoL, 26, 311 (1956). (11) N. Nicolaides and S. Rothman, Studies on the chemical composition of human hair fat I. The squalene-cholesterol relationship in children and adults,J. Invest. DermatoL, 19, 389 (1952). (12) M. Gloor, J. RietkiStter, and H. C. Friederich, Entfettung und Nachfetten der Kopfhaut und der Haare nach Kopfwiische mit verschiedenen Tensiden, ..Fette, Seifen, Anstrichm., 75, 200 (1973). (13) M. Gloor, C. Fichtler, and H. C. Friederich, Uber den Einfiufi alkoholischer Haarwiisser auf das Nachfetten der Haare nach der Kopfwiische, Kosmetologie, 1973, 2. (14) D. A. Shaw, The extraction, quantification and nature of hair lipid,J. Cosmet. Sci., 1,291 (1979). (15) J. Koch, K. Aitzetmiiller, G. Bittorf, andJ. Waibel, Hair lipids and their contribution to the perception of hair oiliness, Part II: Correlation between subjective assessment of hair oiliness and quantity and composition of hair surface lipids,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33 (1982). (16) N. Nicolaides, Skin lipids: their biochemical uniqueness, Science, 19, 186 (1974). (17) O. Sakamoto, Y. Fujinuma, and T. Ozawa, Studies on the chemical composition of internal human hair lipid,J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 54, 143 A (1977). (18) N. Nicolaides, Skin lipids IV. Biochemistry and function,J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 42, 708 (1965). (19) R. E. Kellum, Human sebaceous gland lipids, Arch. DermatoL, 95, 218 (1967). (20) G. Peter, F. Schr Spl, R. Lippross, and G. Weiss, Gaschromatographische Untersuchung der Talgdrilsenlipide I. Bestimmung der Gesamtlipide, Arch. K/in. Exp. Derm.a. toL, 239, 12 (1970). (21) J. Koch and K. Figge, Anderung der Zusammensetzung von Fetten beim Ubertritt in Kunststoffe und ihr Einfiufi auf die Genauigkeit von Gesamtmigrat-Bestimmungsmethoden, Dtsch. Lebensm. Rundsch., 71,170 (1975). PART II: CORRELATION BETWEEN SUBJECTIVE ASSESSMENT OF HAIR OILINESS AND QUANTITY AND COMPOSITION OF HAIR SURFACE LIPIDS Synopsis Hair samples of 20 dry and oily-haired subjects have been assessed with respect to their degree of oiliness 3 days after shampooing. Subsequently they have been analysed for composition and quantity of surface lipids. The results have been evaluated statistically for possible correlations. The computer analysis of collected data suggests that increasing oiliness is correlated with: -- an increasing percentage of wax esters in the lipid, -- a decreasing ratio of saturated/unsaturated fatty acids, -- an increasing amount of monoglyceride on the hair, -- a decreasing percentage of cholesterol ester in the lipid. Neither the quantity of total lipids nor the proportion of free fatty acids/unhydrolysed triglycerides were among the main causes for hair oiliness. INTRODUCTION The composition of human skin surface lipids and possible correlations with various pathological and cosmetic phenomena have been reported extensively in literature. In comparison to this, only a few reports on analytical investigations of hair lipids have been published. They are mainly concerned with correlations between the quantity of

326 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (8) K. V. Curry and S. Golding, Hair lipids I. The extraction of fatty materials from hair clippings,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 681 (1971). (9) A. W. Weitkamp, A.M. Smiljanic, and S. Rothman, The free fatty acids of human hair fat, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 69, 1936 (1947). (10) B. Krotoszynski, L. L. Gershbein, and S. B. Needleman, Properties of hair fat from adult males according to race and hair condition,J. Invest. DermatoL, 26, 311 (1956). (11) N. Nicolaides and S. Rothman, Studies on the chemical composition of human hair fat I. The squalene-cholesterol relationship in children and adults,J. Invest. DermatoL, 19, 389 (1952). (12) M. Gloor, J. RietkiStter, and H. C. Friederich, Entfettung und Nachfetten der Kopfhaut und der Haare nach Kopfwiische mit verschiedenen Tensiden, ..Fette, Seifen, Anstrichm., 75, 200 (1973). (13) M. Gloor, C. Fichtler, and H. C. Friederich, Uber den Einfiufi alkoholischer Haarwiisser auf das Nachfetten der Haare nach der Kopfwiische, Kosmetologie, 1973, 2. (14) D. A. Shaw, The extraction, quantification and nature of hair lipid,J. Cosmet. Sci., 1,291 (1979). (15) J. Koch, K. Aitzetmiiller, G. Bittorf, andJ. Waibel, Hair lipids and their contribution to the perception of hair oiliness, Part II: Correlation between subjective assessment of hair oiliness and quantity and composition of hair surface lipids,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33 (1982). (16) N. Nicolaides, Skin lipids: their biochemical uniqueness, Science, 19, 186 (1974). (17) O. Sakamoto, Y. Fujinuma, and T. Ozawa, Studies on the chemical composition of internal human hair lipid,J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 54, 143 A (1977). (18) N. Nicolaides, Skin lipids IV. Biochemistry and function,J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 42, 708 (1965). (19) R. E. Kellum, Human sebaceous gland lipids, Arch. DermatoL, 95, 218 (1967). (20) G. Peter, F. Schr Spl, R. Lippross, and G. Weiss, Gaschromatographische Untersuchung der Talgdrilsenlipide I. Bestimmung der Gesamtlipide, Arch. K/in. Exp. Derm.a. toL, 239, 12 (1970). (21) J. Koch and K. Figge, Anderung der Zusammensetzung von Fetten beim Ubertritt in Kunststoffe und ihr Einfiufi auf die Genauigkeit von Gesamtmigrat-Bestimmungsmethoden, Dtsch. Lebensm. Rundsch., 71,170 (1975). PART II: CORRELATION BETWEEN SUBJECTIVE ASSESSMENT OF HAIR OILINESS AND QUANTITY AND COMPOSITION OF HAIR SURFACE LIPIDS Synopsis Hair samples of 20 dry and oily-haired subjects have been assessed with respect to their degree of oiliness 3 days after shampooing. Subsequently they have been analysed for composition and quantity of surface lipids. The results have been evaluated statistically for possible correlations. The computer analysis of collected data suggests that increasing oiliness is correlated with: -- an increasing percentage of wax esters in the lipid, -- a decreasing ratio of saturated/unsaturated fatty acids, -- an increasing amount of monoglyceride on the hair, -- a decreasing percentage of cholesterol ester in the lipid. Neither the quantity of total lipids nor the proportion of free fatty acids/unhydrolysed triglycerides were among the main causes for hair oiliness. INTRODUCTION The composition of human skin surface lipids and possible correlations with various pathological and cosmetic phenomena have been reported extensively in literature. In comparison to this, only a few reports on analytical investigations of hair lipids have been published. They are mainly concerned with correlations between the quantity of