336 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS

HAIR OILINESS 337 GLC-conditions for FFA-Me separation: column: 3% Silar 5CP on Gaschrom Q length: 5 m •J: 2 mm temperature: column: 1OO-220øC 4ø/rain, 16 rain hold injector: 3OOøC detector: (FID): 3OOøC 25 ml N2/min gas flow: ISOLATION AND DETERMINATION OF SURFACE-BOUND FATTY ACIDS AND OF Ca 2+, Mg 2+ (EXTRACT D) After extraction with ether according to reference 41, treatment of the hair samples with a 1% solution of gaseous HC1 in ether with subsequent determination of fatty acids and Ca 2+, Mg 2+ in the extracts C and D took place as described in reference 41. DETERMINATION OF LIPIDS REMOVED BY A SIMULATED SHAMPOOING PROCEDURE 60 g of Na-lauryl sulphate (Merck no. 2969) was extracted with 250 ml CHC13 by stirring and refluxing for 30 min, filtered-off and dried at 110øC/min. A 0.2 N aqueous solution of this material was used as detergent solution. Table VI Details of Lipid Composition of Dry and Oily Hair Variable No? 38 39 40 41 Ratio Ratio Ratio Ratio Sample (C•20-C•6 o) (C•4 ,-C•6 ,) (C,2-C,6) FFA No. (C,7 0-C24 o) (C17 1-C20 1) (C17-C24) TO 45/2 229/1 58/1 114/2 37/1 264/1 110/1 163/1 149/1 148/1 62/1 171/2 189/1 14/1 127/1 183/2 155/2 257/3 120/2 239/2 3.87 1.07 2.05 2.48 4.14 1.47 2.37 2.24 3.77 1.58 2.38 7.73 3.86 1.29 2.14 4.09 4.79 1.96 2.88 10.24 3.78 1.12 1.83 1.09 4.19 1.33 2.25 7.55 2.13 1.26 1.63 4.63 4.12 1.42 2.37 2.61 4.31 1.08 2.00 6.21 3.58 1.16 2.02 3.48 3.84 1.30 2.25 2.83 4.23 1.51 2.62 5.56 2.48 0.81 1.51 1.87 3.24 1.09 1.74 18.58 5.17 1.50 2.68 9.26 2.95 1.30 1.90 4.32 2.74 1.42 1.92 1.47 2.23 0.50 0.96 8.15 3.22 1.39 2.12 5.59 'acf. footnote, bTable I