PREPRINTS OF THE 1997 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 53 Treatment of sensitive skin: The diversity of the causes of a skin reaction makes the treatment of sensitive skin a fairly complex matter. It is obvious, that an efficient therapy should include various technologies which will simultaneously improve the skin's barrier function, reduce the reactivity of the skin's immune system, and finally modulate the neuro-sensory response of the skin. We intend to review in the first place, some of the technologies which strengthen the barrier function of the Stratum Corneum, resulting in a significant reduction of the skin reactivity, We will then present the different aspects of the modulation of various inflammatory mediators such as PLA2, PGE2, ILl, TNFalpha, as well as the impact of the control of leukocyte adhesions to endothelial cells. We will describe the role played by anti-oxidants in reducing the impact of lipid peroxidation on the cascade of inflammatory reactions. We will finally present some interesting technologies aimed at the control of phosphodiesterase to increase cAMP levels in monocytes. To conclude this review, we will look at the correlation between each of these variables and the clinical signs of skin sensitivity. We will review the effect of various anti-infiammatories, phodiesterase inhibitors, adhesion inhibitors, and anti-oxidants on the clinical manifestation of sensitive skin. Conclusion: Due to the complexity of the sensitive skin reactions, it becomes obvious that only a multi-faceted therapy will be able to control this condition. The understanding of the etiology of sensitive skin, as well as the development of cosmetic products based on the technologies described in this review, allows us not only to provide relief to those consumers experiencing regularly sensitive skin reactions, but in addition, to create products which are perfectly compatible with a large variety of skin conditions. EXPLORING THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FACIAL SEBUM LEVEL AND MOISTURE CONTENT Louis B. Fisher Ph.D. Mary Kay Holding Corporation A common perception is that a direct relationship exists between sebum and moisture content, implying that scbum may somehow moisturizc the skin, maybe by preventing water loss. To test the accuracy of this concept, a group of 60 women was studied aged from 20 to 60. They wcrc asked to cleanse their faces using their normal procedure prior to coming to the laboratory, but apply no other product, including moisturizcrs, facial makeup, sunscreens, etc. Two to three hours after cleansing, individuals wcrc cquilibrated to 20øC and 40% RH for 15 minutes. Four sites (forehead, cheeks, jawline and chin) on the face were evaluated for moisture (Novameter TM) and oil levels (Scbumetcr•). A notation was also made of the person's opinion as to their own skin type, showing a distribution of 35 people with normal to oily skin 12 with normal to dry skin 6 with normal skin and 7 with oily/dry combination skin. Combining data from all individuals resulted in remarkably little variation being seen across the face in terms of moisture (120.05 + 5.9), although there was some suggestion of a t-zone distribution, particularly in certain individuals. In contrast, a clear-cut t-zone distribution resulting in a large variation across the face was seen for scbum values (65.7 + 44.4). It was also apparent that the moisture level found in the different groups was very similar (fig.'s 1-4). In other words the individual's perception of dryness did not seem to be reflected by differences in instrumental measurements.

54 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ß o o o ß _ _ Fig. I Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 This supports a similar conclusion made by Laufer & Dikstein (1). The levels of sebum on the other hand, although they were similar between the dry and normal groups, showed a considerably higher level in the oily group. The sebum level of the combination skin group was intermediate between the drylnormal and oily groups. In a further study, 20 women selected at random, wexe asked to apply a light moisturizcr to just one side of the face following baseline measurements of sebum and moisture from both sides of the face. Two and six hours later (i.e. 4 and 8 hours after cleansing) panelists returned to the laboratory and following equilibration, sebum and moisture measurements were repeated. On the side of the face without moisturizcr, the skin moisture level stayed relatively constant. On the other hand, the skin surface sebum level increased somewhat during the day (fig. 5-7) at all sites measured. The t-zone pattern remained throughout the study with the forehead and chin levels being higher than those for the cheek and jawline. It was also noted, on an individual basis, that the t•rception of oiliness or dryness was not related to the actual level of sebum detected instrumentally. Indeed some subjects in the oily groups had sebum levels no higher than some subjects claiming to have dry skin. Apparently a high oil level for one l•rson would not be excessive for someone else. This might explain a certain degree of incorrect selection by consumers, when faced with an unfamiliar product. 2 Houm aftir deen-tng loo.oo Ioo.oo 14o.oo , ,,. o.oo 4 Hours eliir clelnMno 8 Hour• eftiT cleanling Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Application of a light moisturizer in the morning increased the average moisture level 2 hours later by 31% (fig.'s 8-9). Some of this increase in moisturization occurred at all facial sites. After a further 4 hours this moisture level had decreased somewhat, but was still 14% above the baseline levels (fig. 10). However, as with the untreated side, the sebum levels continued to increase throughout the day. These dala suggest that the moisturizcr effect is indei•ndent of the level of sebum. Bae•llne 2 Hounl • Hounl before rniX•lJdZer aftlr molMudzlng IMr molMudzlng lOO.oo Ioo.oo IOO.OO 1,1o.oo .... i!iil : • .... ::-i :'ii: !:i• 1: •.• .... : ß .•, 20.OO -.• mOO • [: 20.(]0 O.OO '"' O.OO O.OO Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10