j. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 175-184 (May/June 2002) Investioation of jewelry powders radiatino far-infrared rays and the biolooical effects on human skin B. H. YOO, C. M. PARK, T. J. OH, S. H. HAN, H. H. KANG, and I. S. CHANG, Skin Research Institute, Pacific Corp. / R&D Center, 314-1, Bora-ri Kiheung-eup, Yongin-si, Kyounggi-do, Korea 449-900. Accepted for publication January 31, 2002. Synopsis Far-infrared rays have certain kinds of effects on the human body, especially on skin, blood circulation, and skin cell vitalizing. Some jewelry powders radiate far-infrared rays. Jade has powerful far-infrared ray radiation, and tourmaline has pyroelectric and piezoelectric properties and radiated far-infrared rays. The jewelry powders (fine powdered jade and tourmaline powders) were screened by far-infrared rays for radiation properties and tested for the effects of far-infrared rays on the human skin by temperature observation using an infrared thermal analyzer. INTRODUCTION In recent years, jewelry powders have been applied in cosmetic formulations. Tourmaline powder has especially been a representative example, and crystalline jewelry has been used for the purpose of crystal therapy in Western countries. The main concept of this therapy has been related to oriental "ki" and "chakra," which refers to a flow of energy, and to wave energy, which has been researched for the new alternative therapy, wave therapy. Crystal therapy and wave therapy have the same concept as wave energy. Wave energy has very wide regions of wavelengths, but the most important regions are from 4 to 20 micrometers. These regions of wavelength are usually referred to as "far-infrared rays" or "biologically beneficial rays." In this study, the wavelength of far-infrared rays is in the region of 4 to 20 micrometers. Far-infrared rays have been applied in the cure of dermatologic diseases (1) such as psoriasis (2) and atopic dermatitis (3). They also have effects on living organisms and have growth-promoting effects in growing rats, sleep- modulatory effects in freely behaving rats and insomniac patients, and blood circulation- enhancing effects in human skin (4), especially in percutaneous skin blood circulation (5-7). Effects on the skin and perspiration have also been investigated (8,9). In addition, far-infrared rays affect the whole human body (10) and growth inhibition of mammary Address all correspondence to L. S. Chang. 175

176 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE tumors (11). Some kinds of jewelry radiate far-infrared rays. Representatives employed in this study are jade and tourmaline. Jade radiates far-infrared rays, and tourmaline has pyroelectric and piezoelectric properties and radiates far-infrared rays (12). Far-infrared rays radiated from these jewelry powders were estimated, and skin temperature elevation induced by these jewelry powders was estimated by infrared ray thermal analyzer, thermography. MATERIALS AND METHODS MATERIALS Jade powder (NEPHRITE ©, Jungdo Chem. Co., Korea) and tourmaline powder (Tour- maline ©, Adam Kozan Co., Japan) were used for the experiments. The jade was mined and powdered in Korea, and the tourmaline was mined in Brazil and powdered in Japan. All jewelry was powdered in Korea and Japan. The mean radius of each of the powders was 10 micrometers. Cetostearyl alcohol (Cognis Co., USA), glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate (Arlacel 165 ©, Uniquema Americas, USA), sorbitan stearate (Arlacel 60 ©, Uniquema Americas), polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 ©, Uniquema Americas), cetyl 2-eth- ylhexanoate (Nikkol CIO ©, Nikko Chemicals Co., Japan), liquid paraffin (Matsumura Chemical, Japan), meadowfoam seed oil (Crodapure MDF ©, Croda Inc., USA), glycerine (Glycerine USP ©, Lita Co., USA), and polyacrylamide-C13-14 isoparaffin-laureth- 7(0.3:0.6:0.1) (Sepigel 305 ©, SEPPIC, France) were used for the O/W emulsion. All water was purified with a reverse osmosis membrane filter. Formulario,. An O/W cream type emulsion was prepared with the jade powder and the tourmaline powder. The formulation example is shown in Table I. J-cream contained 1% Table I. Exemplified Formulation for the O/W Emulsion Concentration (w/w %) Compounds Control J-Cream T-Cream Internal oil phase Cetostearyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 Arlacel 165 0.80 0.80 0.80 Arlacel 60 0.40 0.40 0.40 Tween 60 1.20 1.20 1.20 C.E.H. 5.00 5.00 5.00 Liquid paraffin 4.00 4.00 4.00 Crodapure MDF 6.00 6.00 6.00 Aqueous phase Glycerine 5.00 5.00 5.00 Sepigel 105 1.00 1.00 1.00 Nephrite -- 1.00 Tourmaline -- -- 1.00 D.I. water To 100 To 100 To 100