388 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE only in Japan but also in IFSCC and many studies have received prizes. I would like to describe the advance of foundation makeup technology by explaining some research which has been reported. Mechanism and Regulation of Body Mal odor Generation - Development of a Novel Deodorant Powder and Application to Antiperspirants- Masatsugu Miyazaki, Kenichiro Fujihira, Megumi Sadaie, Naoki Nishikawa, Ryo Kon, Keikichi Sugiyama acid dyes generally can not be removed easily. There is no established method for removing stains caused by acid dyes completely and easily. Nishizawa and his colleagues reported the development of acid dyes that do not easily adhere to the skin. However, there is still a great need for new dye removal methods. Therefore, we evaluated solvents and activators of removers by assessing skin permeability and elution from the skin, in order to develop a remover that can easily and safely remove acidic stains from skin. Beauty-Care Research Laboratories, Analytical Research Mechanism and Regulation of Body Malodor Generation Center, Lion Corporation -Effect of Iron on Axillary Malodor and of Anti - Oxidant It is well known that short-chain fatty acids, amines and steroids generated by microbial metabolism are the principal compounds responsible for body malodor. We newly identified vinyl ketones ( 1-octen-3-one, cis-1,5-octadien-3-one) in body odor and found those ketones are also key compounds in axillary malodor. The purpose of this study was to develop a high performance powder, which has quenching efficacy not only for the short-chain fatty acids and amines, but also vinyl ketones. By investigating various powders known to have quenching efficacy, we finally developed a highly porous silica bead containing magnesium oxide. We found that the superior deodorant effect performed by this powder was the result of the multiple effects of both an excellent physical adsorption capability due to its high porosity and a specific adsorption of vinyl ketones to the magnesium in the powder. An antiperspirant formulation containing both the powder and Morus alba extract showed good efficacy as a deodorant. Development of New Acid Dye Remover Based on Solvent Characteristics Tsutomu Kamata, Yoko Ishikawa, Nobuhiro Iwasaki R&D Department of Totalcare Products, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. As evidenced by the current prevalence of brown hair among Japanese, the number of people using hair coloring is increasing. The reason for this is that it is becoming more socially acceptable to color one's hair to match mood or clothing or to hide gray hair. The number of people using acid dyes is on the rise, due to their convenience of use. However, the number of complaints of skin staining caused by acid dyes is also increasing. Stains on skin caused by on Deodorant- Satoru Iida, Noboru Ichinose, Tetsuo Gomi, Keita Someya, Koji Hirano, Miharu Ogura, Sadahiko Yamazaki, Kazutoshi Sakurai Aromatic & Perfumery Center, Biological Science Research Center, Lion Corporation Takasago International Corporation We evaluated axillary malodor extracted from 66 adult men to identify their key compounds so that deodorants can be formulated to be more effective against them. Using sensory evaluation, we classified the malodors into five groups. Using GC/MS and Ge/Olfactory analysis, we identified two key compounds: the vinyl ketonesl-octen-3-one (OEO) and cis-1,5-octadien-3-one (ODO) . Both have a very strong metallic odor and a very low odor threshold. Examination of their generation mechanism revealed that the iron and the unsaturated fatty acids in the living body were related. Morus alba was found to repress the generation of these vinyl ketones due to its remarkable anti-oxidization effect A New Dermatological Availability of the Flavonoid Fraction from Licorice Roots -Effect on Acne- Toshimitsu Kambara , Yanyang Zhou , Yoshihito Kawashima, Naoko Kishida, Kenji Mizutani, Takao Ikeda, Koichiro Kameyama Research & Development Division, Research Center, Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd. Aoyama Dermatological Clinic In the course of our studies on the further application of licorice as a cosmetic ingredient, we studied a new
ABSTRACTS 389 dermatological availability in the licorice extract containing licochalcone-A as a main principle, Polyol Soluble Licorice Extract P-U,-prepared from the roots of Glycyrrhiza inflata Batalin. As a result, this extract showed several activities such as inhibitory actions of testosterone 5 a: -reductase, lipase and phospholipase A2, as well as androgen receptor antagonist, antimicrobial and SOD-like actions, which relate to skin care, especially the suppression of acne formation and development. On basis of this evidence, a trial of Polyol Soluble Licorice Extract P-U with acne patients was carried out and the efficacy was demonstrated clinically. Vol. 37, No. 4, 2003 Mechanisms of the Immune System We Want to Understand Toru Abo Department of Immunology and Medical Zoology, Niigata University Graduate School of Medicine How was the immune system generated in living beings? What pathways were present to reach the developed immune system seen in mammals in phylogeny? If we could answer the above-mentioned questions appropriately, we would easily understand the complex immune system in our body. A Natural Moisturizing Factor, L-2-Pyrrolidone-5- Carboxylic Acid (L-PCA) Enhances Blood Circulation by Modulating Constitutive NO Generation Kazuko Ogasahara, Y oshinobu Takino, Manabu Kitazawa, Kazutami Sakamoto, Yuri Okano, Hitoshi Masaki, Hiroyuki Yasui, Hiromu Sakurai AminoScience Laboratories, Ajinomoto Co., Inc. Department of Analytical and Bioinorganic Chemistry, Kyoto Pharmaceutical University This study revealed a new physiological function of 2- pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (L-PCA), which enhanced blood circulation by modulating constitutive nitric oxide (NO) generation. It is well know that NO, generated from L-arginine (L-Arg) by catalysis of NO synthase (NOS), plays a key role in the control of vascular tone and peripheral blood flow. We found a dose-dependent enhancement of constitutive NO generation by L-PCA in the human aortic endothelial cells (HAECs). In contrast, D-PCA had no influence on NO generation. Furthermore, L-PCA stimulated Arg uptake into HAECs dose-dependently, while D _PCA had no effect as same as NO generation. The L-Arg uptake and its stimulation by L-PCA to HAECs were suppressed with additional of L-NMMA, an inhibitor for the cationic amino acid transporter (CAT). These results indicated that enhancement of NO generation by L-PCA is due to the increase of L-Arg uptake via the CAT pathway. In conclusion, L-PCA was found to enhance blood circulation by modulating constitutive NO generation. Then we confirmed that the occlusive patch test of L-PCA to the volar forearm skin led the redness of skin, and which in tum enhanced the blood flow temporarily. This new function of PCA suggests development of innovative cosmetic products to care for such problematic skin as dark circles under the eyes. Age and Menopause-Related Changes in the Fluorescence of Human Skin Tsutomu Fujimura, Tomoko Hanamoto, Tetsuya Tsugita, Kayoko Iwata Shigeru Moriwaki, Michihiro Hattori, Y oshinori Takema Biological Science Laboratories, Skin Care Laboratories, Kao Corporation The ratio of 390 nm/430 nm fluorescence in the skin induced by 325 nm-excitation light has been used as a marker of photoaging, because that fluorescence ratio in sun-exposed skin decreases with aging. Here, we investigated age and menopause-related changes in the fluorescence of human skin. Test subjects in this study included a juvenile group (age 20-39 yr median 30.1 yr, n=lO), a pre-menopausal group (age 40-59 yr median 50.1 yr, n=l9), and a post-menopausal group (age 40-59 yr median 54.3 yr, n=23). The ratio of 390 nm/430 nm fluorescence intensity was determined from the emission spectra obtained from skin ( cheek and upper inner arm) exposed to 325 nm excitation light. In the check skin, the ratio of fluorescence intensity decreased with age, while no significant change was observed in upper inner arm skin, which is considered a non-solar area. The ratio of fluorescence intensity of the cheek skin in the post-menopausal group was significantly lower than that of the juvenile group, while no significant difference was observed between the juvenile group and the pre-menopausal group. No significant difference was observed in upper inner arm skin. The difference of average age between the pre­ menopausal group and the post-menopausal group was only 4.2 yr. These results suggest that the decrease in female hormones followed by menopause accelerate photoaging of the skin.
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