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]. Cosmet. Sci.J 57, 495-498 (November/December 2006) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 40, No. 2, 2006* Optical Properties of Skin Gloss and Development of Mizumizushii-Looking Makeup Foundation Hirochika Nishimura, Yutaka Takasuka, Megumi Yamamoto Makeup Products R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan In Japan, the term mizumizushii is used to express beauty. This term mizumizushii is an adjective involving factors for a variety of "beauties full of the feeling of vitality" such as youthful, fresh, watery, dewy and the like. The exact choice of words depends on the circumstances. Mizumizushii-looking skin represents the skin that looks wet with the moisture contained in it and that has a good gloss. However, according to our research carried out using a Corneometer, almost no relationship was found between skin actually including a large amount of moisture in the stratum comeum and mizumizushii­ looking skin. We elucidated the "apparently mizumizushii-looking skin," and tried to develop makeup products having the function of making the skin look mizumizushii, which is to be one of the factors of beauty. For this purpose, what makes skin mizumizushii-looking or not had to be defined. Hence, sensory evaluations on 100 women were performed. As a result, these panelists could be classified into two groups of those having mizumizushii-looking skin (25 women) and those having the skin without a mizumizushii look (75 women). Further, it was revealed that the skin without a mizumizushii look could be classified into two groups of dry-looking skin and excessively oily-looking skin. We succeeded in qualitatively classifying the appearance of the skin of these three groups through using a value for optical properties analyzed under specified conditions. Moreover, as a result of investigation of the grounds for possible qualitative classification of these groups with the value for optical properties of the skin, an evident relationship was clarified with the surface morphology (homogeneity on a µm scale) . From the findings of the optical properties of the mizumizushii-looking skin, we designed a makeup film incorporating a function for the mizumizushii look, leading to the development of a foundation. Resolving the Conflict of a Simultaneously Highly Moisturizing and Occlusive Emulsion Film Yuji Sakai, Masashi Suzuki, Yasuhiro Ohara Skin Care Products R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan Two basic functions of emulsion-based cosmetic products are moisturization and occlusion, which are markedly affected by the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic parts in the emulsions. However, due to their conflicting requirements, it is difficult to simultaneously improve both functions. Therefore, we developed new emulsion that has simultaneously higher moisturizing and occlusive functions than those of po lyoxyethelene-type emulsions, by using po lyglycerin-type surfactants, cetyl alcohol, po lyglycerin-13-polyoxybutylene-14-stearyl ether and the D-phase emulsification method, because of dispersing a large quantity of water into the lipophilic part of the applied emulsion film and of strengthening the hydrophilic part of the emulsion film We confirmed through microscopic study with a laser microscope that in po lyoxyethelene-type emulsions, droplets disappear quickly after the film is fonned and dried, whereas in our experimental emulsions, the droplets' shape is evenly retained. Furthermore, after one month of continuous use, stratum comeum removal and comeocyte arrangement also improved significantly. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 495