]. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 499-501 (November/December 2006) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 9, No. 3, 2006* Objective Evaluation of the Placebo Effect in Cosmetic Treabnentq -A Randomized Controlled Study Fernanda Distante•, Valerie Pagani•, Adriana Bonfigli•, Luigi Rigano• and Joachim Fluhr# •JSPE - Institute of Skin and Product Evaluation, Via Bruschetti, 1, 20125 Milano, Italy #De pa rtment of Dermatology, University of Jena, Germany A product's packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotion during the use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a given cosmetic treatmenl A marketed anti-aging gluconolactone-based fonnulation was selected for the study and packaged both in a fancy sophisticated jar and in an unbranded plain container. Thirty-six female volunteers (age range: 30-55 years) with facial photoaging were selected for the study and randomly assi gn ed to the fancy or plain packaged producl Pre-agr-eed messages aimed at extolling the product's cosmetic effects accompanied delivery of the fancy-packaged product to panelists. The given product was applied to the face twice a day for 8 weeks. In�trumental measurements of the skin color (a• and L• pa rameter), skin capacitance, skin tensile properties (RO, R2, R6), skin thickness and skin microrelief parameters (Ra and Rz) were taken at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks of use. Clinical and subjective evaluation were also carried out at each control visit Moreover, the amount of cream con'iumed during usage was calculated by weighing the given jars at each visit Statistica I anal )'l! is of the data obtained showed a si gn ificant improvement in all instrumental parameters for both groups ('fancy' and 'plain' packaging), although no significant differences were detected between the two groups at any time. The improvement was higher in the 'plain' group for most instrumental pa rameters except for micro-relief pa rameters where the outcome was better in the 'fancy' group. Promotion of facial muscle relaxation deriving from the application of the fancy­ packaged cream could be a possible explanation for this finding. Also the product's efficacy and sensory properties were perceived with a higher positive impact in the fancy group. The better perfonnance of the plain packaging group could be related to daily application of the 'proper' amount of cream. In fact, this group consumed a larger amount of cream than the 'fancy' group. These results show that a true placebo effect cannot be induced by pa ckaging characteristics, although they can slightly influence the degree of the expected skin benefits in different wa)'l!. Moreover, proper daily dosage of the product appea to be a key factor in improving the biophysical skin properties related to anti­ aging and restoring effects. A Non-Destructive Method for Aisessing Hair Interior and Surface Damage by Near Infrared S pec troscopy Yuta Miyamae1 ', Yumika Yamakawa1 , and Yukihiro Q7..1ki2l I) POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 560 Kashi0ho, Tot�uka­ ku, Yokohama 244-0812, Japan 2 ' School of Science and Technology, Kwan1ei-Gakuin University, Sanda 669-1337, Japan This paper reports a non-destructive method for evaluating hair interior and surface damage based on near-infrared (NIR) diffuse reflectance (DR) spectroscopy. It is important to know the extent of chemical damage in the interior and surface proteins of the hair in order to choose an appropriate restoration agent or chemical treatment. Unfortunately, though there are many simple and non-destructive methods for evaluating the hair surface, the existing evaluation methods for monitoring chemical changes in the interior proteins are very complicated and destructive. Therefore, we have attempted to develop a new non-destructive method to evaluate the damage of the hair interior and surface simultaneously by using NIR-DR spectroscopy. The key to this study was the combined application of NIR-DR spectroscopy and principal component anal )'l! is to development of a method for the evaluation of hair damage and finding the most suitable wavenumber region (5060- 4500 cm- I) for thii evaluation. In this study, we developed a new evaluation method that can indicate hair interior and surface damage condition.'! induced by chemical treatment in a simple, rapid, non-destructive manner based on NIR-DR using a fiber probe on hair. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 499

500 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Fonnation of Lipid Emulsions and Clear Gels by Liquid Crystal Emulsification Toshiyuki Suzuki, Hidetaka Jwai Kao Corporation, Global R&D, 2-1-3 Bunka, Sumid.a-ku, Tokyo 131, Japan Recentlv developed emulsion technolo�es for the formation of fine emulsions, lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crvstal emulsification were reviewed. As a basic information o liquid crystal emulsification, the structures and characteristic behaviors of lyotropic liquid crystals were summarized. Fonnation of a liquid crystalline phase was often seen in emulsions and biologic.a I systems. The si gn ificance of liquid crystal fonnation during emulsification was analyzed by comparing the states and stabilities of emulsions prepared by different processes. Then uses of liquid crystals for fonnation of the characteristic emulsion and gels were also discussed. In liquid crystal emulsification, an oil phase is dispersed directly into the lamellar liquid­ crysta Hine phase composed of surfactant, glycerol and water to prepare a gel-like oil-in-liquid crystal emulsion. This is followed by dilution with the remaining water lo produce an emulsion. From the phase behavior during emulsification and analysis of the local motion of the liquid crystal membrane by fluorometry, it was confirmed that the interaction between surfactant and a polyol molecule such as glycerol promotes hydrogen bonding and enhances the strength of the lamellar liquid crystal membranes, which results in the formation of oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions. The interaction between the liquid crystal and oil was analyz.ed from the changes in molecular motion of the membrane at the oil-liquid crystal interface using the spin label technique of electron spin resonance (ESR). The fluidity of the liquid crystal membrane did not change when oil was added, and therefore oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions of various oils were prepared by the identical process. This lack of dependence of the liquid crystal membrane on oil results in the unique properties of liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used for oil of various polarity and different molecular corn,tituents. When a self-organizjng artificial stratum comeum lipid containing pseud�amide was used as a principal component of the oil, a multilamellar emulsion of concentric lamellar structure was fonned. The multilamellar emulsion supplement the physiological function of stratum comeum by the identical mechanism as natural intercellular lipid'i. High pressure treatment of the lipid emulsion produced a gel-like emulsion crystal, in which the homogeneous nanoemulsion droplets were arranged in a hexagonal array. Hydroxy Dimethoxybenzyl Malonate: A Novel Anti­ (Photo )aging Concept Thomas Rudolph, Philipp Biihle, Jorn Beck, Frank Pflocker, Karl-August Reiffen, and Herwig Buchholz Merck KGaA, Frankfurter Strasse 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany Ideally, anti-(photo)aging concepts should provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The need for high efficacy paired with excellent stability appeared contradictive but was resolved by designing complete redox systems rather than antioxidants alone. We here introduce a new class of cosmetic redox pairs, each comprising the initial antioxidant plus its oxidation product. The chemical properties of the oxidation product are the key to enabling the system to maintain or even increase its initial efficacy. A series of antioxidant tests were used to carefully characterize single redox pair components for comparison with traditional antioxidants such as vitamin C and E derivatives (DPPH, lipid and TEAC assays). Kinetic studies on the photobehavior of a selected redox pair were carried out in cosmetic emulsions with solar simulation and monitored by UV spectroscopy and high performance liquid chromatography. Hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate (HDBM) is a pure transparent cosmetic oil. It shows excellent cosmetic stability coupled with extraordinary antioxidant properties. This controlled activity can be explained well by the presence of its oxidation product hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidene malonate (HDBMox), which provides ongoing antioxidant activity plus excellent UV A absorbing properties. The redox pair described here provides the advanced on-demand benefit of a non-UV-absorbing photoprotector that is converted into its UV-absorbing equivalent upon light exposure. Prebiotic Cosmetics: An Alternative to Antibacterial Product' Dirk Bockmuhl, Claudia Jassoy, Silke Nieveler, Regine Scholtyssek, Armin Wadle, and :Marianne Waldmann-Laue Henkel KGaA, 40191 Diisseldorf: Germany The concept of prebiotics is well known from food product'!, where several ingredients are used to stimulate the beneficial gut microflora. However, prebiotic substances can in principle be applied to balance almost any microbial community to achieve advantageous effects. Since many cosmetic products target skin bacteria as a cause for undesirable conditions like inflammation or body odor, prebiotic actives can help to cope with these problems in a very effective way. To ensure a focused and successful mode of action we demonstrated that it is essential to analyze the microflora and the interactions between different bacterial species carefully. These analyzes were made using a molecular method, fluorescence in situ hybridization (FISH), allowing a precise determination of a bacterial community without the drawbacks of classical culture methods. In a further step it was then possible to identify new actives tha1 inhibit harmful or unwanted bacterial species while protecting the beneficial flora. Using a quick and reliable in vitro screening method we found several plant extracts (e.g. Ginseng or Black currant) which inhibit the inflammation­ causing bacterium Propionibacterium acnes, but do not affec1 beneficial species like coagulase-negative staphylococci. In addition, it could also be demonstrated that a prebiotic product line for treatment of inflamed (or acne prone) skin showed the predicted effects on the microflora composition in a first in vivo trial, i.e. decrease of Propionibacterium acnes a1 a constant level of total bacteria. After three weeks, th� microtlora of 91 % of the volunteers had been rebalanced in this way. Furthermore, these formulations have been shown to exhibit excellent skin compatibility compared to an antibacterial product. Thus, prebiotic substances have thf potential to provide a gentle and sustainable alternative tc undirected antibacterial ingredients which can causf irritation, and frequently only show short time effects.