54 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
medium chain fatty acids. Third, three dif-
ferent methods are used to cite references
(see references for Chapters 1, 18, and 25).
Fourth, in the era of electronic spell-
checking, the book contains several typo-
graphical errors.
Despite these minor shortcomings, this
book includes innovative science and will
be valuable to scientists in the area of for-
mulation development and drug delivery.
This second edition serves not only as an initial
resource to begin any percutaneous penetra-
tion research project, but also as a thought-
provoking challenge to those conducting re-
search in drug delivery .-MICHAEL
CASWELL-Fleet Laboratories

].Cosmet. Sci., 58, 55-57 Qanuary/February 2007)
Abstracts
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan
Vol. 40, No. 4, 2006*
Developing Beauty-Enhancing Makeup by Controlling came to develop a red powdered fiber with a #-shaped
Light Reflected from Skin (I) ---A Makeup Foundation cross-section. This material, with its unique cross section,
Incorporating an Optical Effect of Red Light-- demonstrated an effect of enhancing only the reflectance of
Yukari Sakazaki*, Yuka Suzuki*, Kazuhiro Nishikata**,
Kunihiko Mohri*
*R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1,
Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan
**Product Planning Division, POLA Cosmetics, Inc., 2-2-
3, Nishi-gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-8523, Japan
long wavelength light, without lowering lightness or
chroma. We verified that when this powder was formulated
into a sample foundation and applied to the skin, the skin
appeared more even in tone and looked more attractive
compared to skin to which conventional foundation was
applied
Developing Beauty-Enhancing Makeup by Controlling
Lighting can change the appearance of the skin in a major Light Reflected from Skin (IT) ---A Makeup Foundation
way. Taking notice of the fact that illumination with Producing an Optimal Reflectance Dip on Skin--
enhanced red content is often used to make skin look more
attractive, we evaluated the effect of long wavelength light Yukari Sakazaki*, Yuka Suzuki*, Kazuhiro Nishikata••,
on the appearance of the skin. We developed a light source Kunihiko Mohri"'
that could emit light in any combination of wavelengths,
and used a variety of lights against the skin to conduct a *R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1,
visual evaluation. As a result, we found that skin that was Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan
illuminated with light containing a large percentage of long **Product Planning Division, POLA Cosmetics, Inc., 2-2-
wavelength light of at least 600nm appeared even in tone, 3, Nishi-gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-8523, Japan
with skin faults such as spots and fine wrinkles rendered
less visible. Next, we evaluated the light reflected from the Spectral reflection curves of human skin generally show a
skin. As a result of an evaluation of spectral reflectance and characteristic dip in the 500 to 600 nm range. This "dip" is
skin appearance, we found that as little as a 10% increase in unique for each person, and is believed to be caused by the
the reflectance of long wavelength light contributed to the spectral absorption of blood. We investigated the spectral
enhancement of an even appearance of the skin. We reflectance of human skin and discovered a very interesting
therefore considered methods for incorporating this correlation between the area of the reflectance dip and L*
"flattering effect" to make the skin appear better than it value (lightness of the skin). The Standard Area of
actually is into the development of cosmetic products. We Reflectance Dip (Ads) is defined and calculated from the
engaged in the development of powdered material that correlation we discovered. The Actual Area of Reflectance
would generate the same kind of reflectance as would be Dip (ADa) is calculated from the spectral reflection curve.
generated by illumination with red light. As a result, we The ratio of ADa and ADs was found to be a very useful
*These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of
Cosmetic Science.
55