].Cosmet. Sci.! 58, 59-63 Qanuary/February 2007)
Abstracts
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Vol. 28, No. 3, 2006*
A New Covalently Bound Ceramide from Human Stratum
Comeum -ro-Hydroxyacylphytosphingosine.
J. Hill"', D. Paslint and P. W. Wertz•
The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum comeum,
consists of non-viable keratin-filled cells, or comeocytes,
embedded in a matrix of lipids. The boundary of the cells
consists of cross-linked proteins with covalently bound
lipids on the outer surface. The spaces between cells are
filled with a mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty
acids. The stratum comeum provides a protective barrier
against water loss through the skin and limits the
penetration of potentially harmful substances from the
environment. Among the covalently bound lipids on the
comeocyte surface are ro-hydroxyacylsphingosine and ro-
hydroxyacyl-6-hydroxysphingosine. The previously
suspected presence of ro-hydroxyacylphytosphingosine is
confirmed in this report through its specific isolation and
characterization based on chromatographic behaviour and
proton magnetic resonance spectral data.
Validation of a HPLC Method for Simultaneous
Determination of Five Sunscreens in Lotion Preparation.
E. R. M Kedor-Hackmann, M. L. De Lourdes Perez
Gonzalez, A K. Singh and M I. R M. Santoro
The aim of this research was to develop and validate a
high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method
for simultaneous determination of five sunscreens, namely
benzophenone-3 (B-3), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
(BM), octyl methoxycinnamate (OM), octyl salicylate (OS)
and homosalate (HS). The separation and quantitative
detemtination was made by HPLC at 40 ± 1 °C with a
gradient elution from 10% to 100% mobile phase B in
mobile phase A The gradient liquid chromatographic
system constituted of mobile phase A [acetonitrile :water
(10 :90 v/v)] and mobile phase B [acetonitrile :water
(90 :10 v/v)], at a flow rate of 1.0 mL min ··•·•·t and
ultraviolet detection at 310 nm The separation was
obtained with two Waters® reversed phase columns:
Novapack® C-18 and Symmetry® C-18 connected in series.
All sunscreens were efficiently separated within 17 min.
The coefficient of correlation and average recovery for B-3,
BM, OM, OS and HS were 0.9798 and 98.5%, 0.9672 and
98.8%, 0.9922 and 99.1%, 0.9961 and 98.9% and 0.9909
and 99.4% respectively. The relative standard deviations
obtained were between 1.07% and 2.44%. The excipients
did not interfere in tlte analysis. The results showed that the
proposed method could be used for rapid and simultaneous
detemtination of B-3, BM, OM, OS and HS in sunscreen
lotions with precision, accuracy and specificity.
Cellulite: Nature and Aetiopathogenesis
F. Terranova•, E. Berardescat and H Maibacht
Only a limited number of studies on cellulite have been
published in the international literature and many of them
reach somewhat antithetical conclusions. Consequently, it
is not yet possible to reconcile the extreme differences of
opinion which have lingered on for years concerning the
nature of this disorder, as well as its origin and even the
most basic aspects of its histopathological classification. It
does not even have a recognized name: in fact, the term
'cellulitis' is used in scientific English to indicate a
spreading gangrenous infection of the subcutaneous cellular
tissue. The other terms used from time to time [panniculitis,
lipodystrophy, edematofibrosclerotic panniculitis (EFP),
liposclerosis, lipoedema, etc.] have quite different
morphological and patltogenetic connotations in general.
Over the last few decades, three major conflicting theories
have emerged in relation to the ethiopathogenesis of
cellulite. These indicate, respectively, the following causes:
l. Oedema caused by excessive hydrophilia of the
intercellular matrix. 2. A homeostatic alteration on a
regional microcirculatory level this pathogenetic theory is
summarized in a synthetic and self-explanatory
denomination: EFP. 3. A peculiar anatomical conformation
of the subcutaneous tissue of women, different from male
morphology. These theories must all now be updated in the
light of recent advances on the sophisticated and composite
*These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of
Cosmetic Science.
59

60 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
physiopathology of the adipose organ -which acts not only Testing Anticellulite Products
as a control device which regulates the systematic
equilibrium of energy and modulates the food intake and c. Rona•, M. Carrerat and E. Berardescat
the metabolism of other tissue substrate through a multiple
glandular secretion of hormones and parahormones.
Cellulite Histopathology and Related Mechanobiology.
P. Quatresooz, E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, C. Pierard-
Franchimont and G. E. Pierard
Cellulite, sometimes called gynoid lipodystrophy, is much
more prevalent in women than in men. There are glaring
discrepancies regarding the microanatomical descriptions
of this condition in the literature. A lumpy aspect of the
dermo-hypodermal interface is often cited, but it appears to
represent a gender-linked characteristic of the thighs and
buttocks without being a specific sign of cellulite. Incipient
cellulite recognized by a discrete padded look or 'orange
peel' aspect appears correlated with the presence of a
network of focally enlarged fibrosclerotic strands
partitioning the hypodermis and serving as a physiological
buttress limiting the outpouching of fat lobules on pinching
the skin. These connective tissue structures might represent
a hormonal-dependent reactive process to sustained
mechanical tensions caused by the adipocyte lobules. Full
blown cellulite is recognized by a lumpy-bumpy and
dimpled skin surface. It likely represents subjugation of the
hypertrophic response of the hypodermal connective tissue
strands when their resistance is overcome by progressive
fat accumulation. In these cases, histological aspects
reminiscent of striae distensae are identified within the
hypodermal connective tissue strands. The mechanical
properties of skin involved by cellulite process are altered,
but may tend to resume to normal under treatment. These
functional changes influence the mechanobiology of
connective tissue cells, in particular the Factor Xllla-
po sitive dermal dendrocytes.
Determination of Optimal Cream Formulation from Long-
Term Stability Investigation Using a Surface Response
Modelling.
N. Moutai Mostefa•·t, A Hadj Sadokt, N. Sabrit and A.
Hadjit
The aim of this work was to apply an experimental design
to formulate a stable depilatory cream at ambient
temperature. A preliminary study was performed to
optimize the most accurate operating parameteni, which are
then used for the determination of the rheological
properties. Long-term stability of the emulsion
formulations was investigated to obtain the optimal region
of each factor. An experimental design using response
surface modelling was then applied and emulsion stability
was estimated by introducing new characteristic parameters
correlated with the experimental results. An optimal region
characterized with high stability was found and further
explored to verify the effectiveness and tolerance of
depilation. As part of the optimized process, the main
effects of the formulation ingredients were also
investigated.
Cellulite represents the most common lipodystrophic
disease. It affects more likely women than men and it
usually develops in particular anatomic sites such as lateral
thighs and buttocks. In these areas skin resembles 'orange
peel' surface. The pathophysiological aspects of cellulite
are still not clear. Many predisposing factors seem to
influence cellulite onset, including gender, heredity, race,
body weight and age. Hormones and impairment of both
microvascular and lymphatic circulation are considered the
most important etiological factors. The evaluation of
cellulite is based principally on clinical observation, thigh
circumference measurements, body mass index and
thermography but for testing anticellulite products, more
objective and non-invasive methods of evaluation are
requested.
Efficacy of a Multifunctional Plant Complex in the
Treatment of the So-Called 'Cellulite': Clinical and
Instrumental Evaluation.
F. Distante•, P. A Baccit and M. Carrerat
'Cellulite' or more correctly oedemateous fibrosclerotic
panniculopathy, or local lipodystrophy, is a common
aesthetic problem for many women, visually characterized
by the orange peel or dimpled look of the skin, mainly on
the buttocks and thighs. The cause of cellulite is still a
matter of debate. It is currently considered an endocrine-
metabolic microcircu]atory disorder that causes interstitial
matrix alterations and structural changes in subcutaneous
adipose tissue. The first step in cellulite treatment is
stimulation of microcirculation and the removal of
accumulated fluids and toxic elements. This can improve
the intenititial matrix basal regulation, fibroblast activity
and decrease intenititial oedema, with subsequent increase
in lipolysis and a better oxygen and nutrition of the adipose
tissue. In this paper are reported two trials aimed at
evaluating clinically and instrumentally the effects of
different orally administered multifunctional plant extracts-
based formulations in the treatment of cellulite compared
with a placebo.
Cellulite and its Treatment
A. V. Rawlings
The presence of cellulite is an aesthetically unacceptable
cosmetic problem for most post-adolescent women. It is
largely observed in the gluteal-fennoral regions with its
'orange-peel' or 'cottage cheese' appearance. It is not
specific to overweight women although increased
adipogenicity will exacerbate the condition. It is a complex
problem involving the microcirculatory system and