62 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
New Antiaxillary Odour Deodorant Made With
Antimicrobial Ag-zeolite (Silver-Exchanged Zeolite)
T. Nakane•, H. Gomyot, I. Sasakil, Y. Kimoto§, N.
Hanz.awa,i, Y. Teshima§ and T. Namba§
The causative substances for axillary osmidrosis, which are
often found in apocrine sweat, are the
decomposed/denatured products of short-chain fatty acid
and other biological metabolite compounds produced by
axillary-resident bacteria. Conventional underarm
deodorants suppress the process of odour production
mostly by the following mechanism: (1) suppression of
perspiration, (2) reduction in numbers of resident bacteria,
(3) deodorization and (4) masking. The most important and
effective method to reduce odour is to suppress the growth
of resident bacteria with antimicrobials, which have several
drawbacks, especially in their safety aspect To solve these
problems, we focused on Ag-zeolite (silver-exchanged
zeolite) that hold stable Ag, an inorganic bactericidal agent,
in its structure, and therefore, poses less risk in safety. Its
bactericidal effect on skin-resident bacteria was found to be
excellent and comparable with that of triclosan, a most
frequently used organic antimicrobial in this product
category. The dose-response study of Ag-zeolite powder
spray (0--40 w/w%) using 39 volunteers revealed that 5-
40 w/w% Ag-zeolite could show a sufficient antimicrobial
effect against skin-resident bacteria. The comparison study
u. ing 0.2 w/w% triclosan as the control and IO w/w°/4 Ag-
zeolite indicated that: (1) one application of the powder
spray containing IO w/w°/4 Ag-zeolite could show a
sufficient antimicrobial effect against the resident bacteria
and its effect continued for 24 h, (2) a powder spray
containing 0.2 w/w% triclosan was unable to show a
sufficient antimicrobial effect, and (3) no adverse event
was observed. These studies show that Ag-zeolite has a
superior antimicrobial ability that is rarely found in
conventional antimicrobials used in deodorant products and
a strong antiaxillary odour deodorant ability because of its
long-lasting effect. During clinical study, patch tests with
humans and other clinical studies of this product showed no
adverse events related to the treatment with the Ag-zeolite
product.
Induction of The Skin Edogenous Potective Mitochondrial
MnSOD by Vitreoscilla Filiformis Extract
Y. F. Mahe•, R Martint, L. Aubertl, N. Billoni •, C.
Collin•, F. Pruche•, P. Bastien•, S. S. Drost§, A. T. Lane§
and A Meybeck•
Vitreoscilla filiformis (Vf), a filamentous bacteria living in
fresh water is thought to contribute to the observed
beneficial effects of Spa water on skin. An active fraction
obtained from a Vf biomass was evaluated for its ability to
modulate mRNA expression in cultured skin cells. cDNA
amy analysis was conducted first using a customized
membrane including 1176 selected and fully identified
genes involved in skin physiology and homeostasis then the
newly developed full genome Ul33 plus 2.0 GeneChip
from Affymetrix. The mitochondrial protective manganese
superoxide dismutase (MnSOD/SOD-2) was identified as a
preferentially induced mRNA target in both normal human
dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Induction at the
transcriptional level in both cell types was confirmed using
quantitative real time/polymerase chain reaction and a
kinetic analysis revealed a maximal increase in mRNA
expression 20 h after stimulation with Vf extract (Vfe).
Using immunofluorescent (fluorescent cell sorter) anal
ys is,
an induction of MnSOD protein in both normal human
dermal skin fibroblasts (xl.6 P 0.01) and epidermal
keratinocytes (xl.4 P 0.01) was confirmed. As MnSOD
is a major inducible free-radical scavenger in skin, these
results suggest that the Vfe could induce skin cells to
produce their own endogenous protective defences in vivo
against both exogenous environmental stressors such as UV
irradiation or microflora as well as to combat endogenous
sources of deleterious free radicals involved in skin ageing.
Finally, in order to confirm the in vivo potential of this
original extract in human, we evaluated its protective
activity vs. placebo on the generation of sunburn cells in
epidermis under UVB stress. As expected from in vitro
profiJing, Vfe was indeed fmmd to significantly inhibit the
appearance of sunburn cells in UVB-exposed areas, a
signature of skin alteration which has been suggested to be
linked to a defect in MnSOD protective activity.
Altogether, those data suggest that the combination of a
suitable protective UV filter together with this bioactive
Vfe might improve skin protection through complementary
pathways.
Stress and The Skin
J. Hosoi
'The skin is the mirror which reflects the state of the
mind."The skin is the window of the mind.' These have
been proverbs since ancient times. It is the topic of this
article. Our life became convenient with the information
technology these days but too much information often
drives us on. We suffer from mental stress rather than
physical stress. Since Selye advocated stress reaction,
various reactions in the body have been described. Skin is
also a target organ of the stress reaction. What the effects of
stress are and how stress affects the skin are summarized in
this review. Possible use of fragrance for the regulation of
the stress reaction is also introduced.
Artocarpus Lakoocha Heartwood Extract As a Novel
Cosmetic Ingredient Evaluation of The In Vitro Anti-
Tyrosinase and In Vivo Skin Whitening Activities
P. Tengamnua�, K Pengrungruangwong•, I. Pheansri•
and K Likhitwitayawuidt
The heartwood extract of Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. was
evaluated for the in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity and
the in vivo melanin-reducing efficacy in human volunteers.
The IC,0 of the extract and oxyresveratrol, its major active
ingredient, against mushroom tyrosinase was determined to
be 0.76 and 0.83 J,lg mL .,.,_.',respectively. The extract
dissolved in propylene glycol was subsequently tested in
female volunteeB using a parallel clinical trial with self-
control (n =20 per group). The first group received the

ABSTRACTS 63
0.25% w/v A lakoocha solution as the test solution,
whereas the second and the third group, respectively,
received 0.25% licorice extract and 3% kojic acid as the
reference solutions in the same solvent. The subjects in
each group twice daily applied the test (or reference)
solution in one of her upper ann, whereas the remaining
arm was treated with only propylene glycol (self-control)
for 12 ffl:Cks. The melanin content of each application site
was measured using Mexameter every week and calculated
as %reduction in melanin content relative to the initial
melanin value (%whitening). The value of %whitening
was then compared between the product-treated and the
propylene glycol-treated arms within the same subject
using paired t-test (a ""0.05). The A lakoocha extract was
the most effective agent, giving the shortest onset of
significant whitening effect after only 4 weeks of
application (P 0.05), followed by 3% kojic acid (6 weeks)
and 0.25% licorice extract (10 weeks). The effect also
increased with time with maximum whitening observed at
week 12 for A. lakoocha extract. When the extract was
formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, its whitening
efficacy was further enhanced. Daily application of 0.1%
w/w A lakoocha lotion to the upper arms (n =25) and
cheeks (n =15) of volunteers produced significant
whitening over the lotion base after 2 and 3 weeks,
respectively (P 0.05). Thus, the preliminary study
suggested that the heartwood extract of A lakoocha may
have a promising potential for use as an effective and
economical skin-whitening agent.
Heat Shock Proteins In The Skin
C. Jonak. G. Klosner and F. Trautinger
Heat shock proteins (hsp) are expressed in all cells and
organisms. Their expression is induced by heat shock
(temperatures above 42°C) and other forms of
pathophysiological stress. Elevated levels of hsp protect
cells from further stress exposure. Hsp are expressed
intracellularly. They are highly conserved throughout
evolution indicating hsp being necessary for survival under
potentially harmful environmental conditions. Hsp are
divided into families according to their molecular weight.
The majority of hsp function as molecular chaperones.
Chaperone function is characterized by binding to other
proteins and mediating their folding, transport and
interaction with other molecules. In human epidermis hsp
are abundantly expressed and have been linked with
functions in cell differentiation and photobiology. Recent
research has mainly focused on the 27 and 72 kD hsp that
are constitutively expressed in human keratinocytes.
ultraviolet radiation (UV)-induced cell death and sunburn
cell formation can be inhibited by previous heat shock
exposure and UV itself can induce hsp expression. The
expression of the 27 kD hsp (hsp27) in epidermal
keratinocytes in situ and in culture correlates with
differentiation. Expression of hsp27 increases
simultaneously with keratinocyte differentiation. For that
reason, hsp27 is described as a marker of epidermal
differentiation. Changes in the expression and inducibility
of hsp have been linked with ageing. In the skin, recent
data indicate that hsp72 expression remains remarkably
stable with intrinsic ageing. In contrast, levels of hsp27
have been found to be elevated in sun-protected aged skin
indicating a link between hsp27 expression and age-
dependent epidermal alterations. Regulation of hsp can be
modified by pharmacological intervention and the
development of safe topical and systemic treatments for the
prevention of skin damage and disorders of keratinocyte
differentiation can be expected for the future.
Histological Evaluation of Hyperpigmentation on Female
Filipino Axillary Skin
A G. James, J. E. Pople, W. E. Parish, A. E. Moore and N.
Dunbar
Females in South East Asia (Thailand, Indonesia and the
Philippines) show concern about dark areas of skin which
develop in their underarms, but little is known about the
features differentiating pale and hyperpigmented axillary
skin in the general population. To investigate this, a
histology study was undertaken in the Philippines to define
the aetiology of underarm darkening, which is postulated to
be a mild form of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
(PIHP). Punch biopsies were taken from dark and light
axillary skin sites of 20 female subjects, of whom seven
had hyperpigmented underarms, based on an instrumental
(Mexameter MX-18, Courage and Kha?.aka Electronic
GmbH. Cologne, Germany) measure, and 13 had not.
Histological and immunohistochemical analyses were
undertaken using a range of stains and antibodies, including
haematoxylin-eosin for general histopa-thology, Masson-
Fontana for melanin, anti-CD68 for monocytes and
macrophages, Van Gieson's technique for fibrosis, anti-
proliferating cell nuclear antigen for cell mitosis, and the
melanocyte-specific immunostains, anti-tyrnsinase and
anti-tyrosinase-related protein 1. In most cases, dark skin
sites from hyperpigmented panellists had increased
intensity of Masson-Fontana, anti-tyrosinase and/or anti-
TRPl staining, indicative of melanocyte stimulation and
increased melanin production. Furthermore, hair plucking
emerged as a key stimulus to increased pigmentation. The
trauma of hair plucking slightly increased the number of
infiltrating mononuclear cells and macrophages that
ingested melanosomes leaking from the damaged
epidermis, more so in the skin of hyperpigmented
panellists this, in tum, potentially increases pigmentation.
However, cell infiltration was focal, mainly near the
plucked follicles, and not indicative of diffuse
inflammation. The results from this study support the
hypothesis that axillary darkening is mild PIHP,
characterized by increased epidermal melanin, following
stimulation or mild irritation of skin, with hair plucking as
a key factor in this process.