].Cosrnet. Sci., 58, 65-67 Qanuary/February 2007)
Abstracts
IFSCC Magazine
Vol. 9, No. 4, 2006*
Supplementation with Nutritional ('.,artilage Extract
Positively Influences Skin Hydration, Skin Barrier and Skin
Structure: A Double Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled
Study
Ulrike Heinrich•, Birgit Garbe•, Hagen Tronnier", Marie
Bejot••, Jean Marc Maurette•• • DennaTronnier, Institute
for Experimental Dennatology, University Witten/Herdecke,
Alfred-Herrhausen-Str. 44 (FEZ), 58455 Witten/Ruhr,
Gennany •• Laboratoire Oenobiol, Paris, France
increase in the skin density in the verum group (cartilage
extract). No or minor improvements could be detected in the
placebo group.
A Novel Water-Repellent O/W Emulsion Using a New
Water-Soluble Amphiphilic Pol
ym er
Eri Akiyama•), Akio Kashimotoj, Hajime Hotta.•), Tomohito
Kitsuki b )
a) Kao Corporation, Tokyo Research Lab., 2-1-3, Bunka,
The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of
Sumida, 131-8501 Japan 'j Kao Co
rpo ration, Wakayama
polysaccharides from fish cartilage with regard to their skin
aging properties. An application test was carried out during
Research Lab., 1334, Minato, Wakayama, 640-8580 Japan
the intake of cartilage tablets as a nutritional supplement The A novel O/W (oil-in-water) emulsion cosmetic that has strong
study was desi
gn ed as a monocentric, double-blind, water repellency and a »water-splash feel« was prepared
randomized, placebo-controlled application test 28 healthy using the amphiphilic polymer hydrophilic-hydrophobic
female volunteers (35-60 years) with dry skin were included modified pol
ys accharide (INCi/Sodium Stearoxy PG-
in the study. They were divided into two groups. Group 1 Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate). This emulsion is
received tablets containing placebo and group 2 the verum composed of a hydrophobic-hydrophilic modified
treatment (cartilage hydrolysate combined with vitamin C). pol
ys accharide/water/oil system with a small amount of
The duration of the study was 12 weeks. The focus of interest lipophilic non-ionic surfactant (hydrophilic-lipophilic
was to find out about the hydration properties, and to see balance5) added to obtain finely emulsified oil particles.
whether the skin barrier and structure were influenced by the Hydrophilic-hydrophobic modified polysaccharide was used
test formulation compared with placebo. Hydration
measurements were made before and during the study, and
the transepidermal water loss (barrierer function of the skin)
was measured. The thickness and density of the skin of all
volunteers were determined by means of ultrasound
measurements during of the study. Statistical analysis was
based on the Wilcoxon si
gn ed rank test The following
results were obtained in this study: There was a si
gn ificant
improvement in the hydration properties, a si
gn ificant
decrease in transepidermal water loss and a si
gn ificant
as a thickener and polymer surfactant, and it produced a
stable O/W emulsion without the addition of a hydrophilic
surfactant. Several types of oil droplets decrease in size upon
addition of various kinds of lipophilic surfactant due to the
lowering of tension at the water/oil interface. Rheological
measurements revealed that the strong network structure of
hydrophilic-hydrophobic modified pol
ys accharide retained oil
droplets without occurrence of phase inversion. Such an
emulsion is very different from those made using
conventional hydrophilic surfactants, and it is water repellent.
*These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of
Cosmetic Science.
65

66 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
This system was characterized by the presence of hydrophilic- environmental conditions at a Q-Lab weathering station in
hydrophobic modified polysaccharide, and the state of the Arizona. The appearance of hair fibers changed dramatically
emulsion could be controlled by the ratio of due to thinning and fusion of scales as well as fusion of
hydrophobic/hydrophilic moieties introduced into the individual hair fibers with each other (inter-fiber fusion) to
pol
ys accharide. form rod-like structures stuck together by solubilized, oozed
out, gelled and finally hardened proteins. The hair became
extremely rigid and brittle with radial cracks forming mostly
Compatibility Testing In Vitro: A Comparison with Jn Vivo smooth radial fractures and occasionally step fractures. There
Patch Test Data was also internal fusion of the cellular structure of the fiber.
Hair fibers were characterized by scanning electron
Thomas Welss1, Wolfgang Matthies2, Klaus Rudolf microscopy (SEM) and IN-visible microspectrophotometry.
Schroeder1 IN-visible spectra showed that natural hair color (melanin)
plays an important role in protecting hair proteins, mostly by
1 VfB Skin Hair Phyiology, Henkel KGaA, Building z33, a sacrificial mechanism. Indian and Chinese black hair,
Henkelstra 67, 40191 Dusseldorf: Germany 2 VTD which are rich in melanin, resist photochemical degradation
BioServices, Henkel KGaA, 40191 Dusseldor( Germany
3 Phenion GmbH& Co. KG, 60439 Frankfurt am Main,
Germany
much better than hair of European origin with moderate, low
or no melanin content
For safety reasons cosmetic formulations have to be assessed
How Cosmetic Science Can Contribute to the Improvement
for putative side effects like skin irritation. The human patch
of Society
test is an appropriate method for this type of assessment, but
it cannot be used for the higher throughput needed for Megan Jones
screening innovative formulations and a distinct assessment is
often difficult. The aim of this study was therefore to Sales Professional Health and Personal Care, Uniquema,
investigate the feasibility of using an in vitro approach for South Africa
compatibility testing to determine the irritancy of surfactants.
Test samples were provided by the German Society of The only constant in life is change and living in South Africa
Cosmetic Chemists (DGK), which conducted a human patch I certainly have witnessed major change during my life,
test study with the same set of samples in parallel. This gave
us the unique opportunity to correlate in vitro with in vivo
data. To assess irritant effects in vitro, reconstructed human
epidermis was exposed to seven coded test samples consisting
of individual anionic surfactants, blends of surfactants, and
controls. A multiple endpoint anal
ys is was established
comprising the viability, cytotoxicity, histology, cytokine
release and differential gene expression. Using this test
strategy, a very good correlation was determined for our in
vitro assessment of compatibility with a theoretical ranking
and the human patch test data.
particularly as our country was transformed from being
governed by the Apartheid regime to a democratically elected
government In order to share my ideas of how cosmetic
science can contribute to the improvement of society, I would
like to address three issues. The first part of my essay will
discuss some of the recent changes in the society we live in
and how these changes have affected our need for cosmetics.
Secondly I will discuss the development'! in cosmetic science
that will be necessary to cope with these changes and finally,
the kind of developments in cosmetic science will be
necessa
ry in order for them to improve our society. Of course,
not all people in our world share the same norms and values
and I will therefore consider a global acceptance of and
Photodegradation of Hair of Different Ethnicity after 1 Year adherence to the Declaration of Human Rights as the ultimate
of Exposure to Natural Weathering in Arizona
Yash K Karnath and Sigrid B. Ruetsch
TRI/Princeton, 601 Prospect Ave., Princeton, NJ 08542,
USA
Natural weathering of hair in a relatively dry hot climate was
carried out by exposing hair of different ethnicity to natural
improvement. On such a level, it should be realized from the
beginning that the influence cosmetic science can have on
society is very limited compared to that of, for instance,
political leaders of our world. Cosmetic science, however,
does make a contribution, although it is only a small step in
the process of improving the world we live i
n, but according
to Confucius the longest journey begins with the first step.
Therefore, let the journey begin ...