ABSTRACTS 67
Influencing the Equilibrium of the Cutaneous Ecosystem to and indirect antimicrobial activity (cathelicidins, □-
Improve the Properties of Skin Prone to Acne
Catherine Lenaers, David Brunet, Katia Ladegaillerie,
Magalie Pinet, Brigitte Closs R&D Department, SILAB,
BP213, 19108 Brive Cedex, France
defensins). These natural antimicrobial peptides limit the
proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and fungi such as
Staphylococcus aureus or Candida albicans and can also
induce an indirect immune response. They are indispensable
for the homeostasis of the cutaneous ecosystem and are over-
expressed by keratinocytes in response to an inflammatory
stimulus or an infection. When these natural defenses are
The skin is colonized by a variety of microorganisms such as disturbed or overwhelmed, they must be stimulated to limit
Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and the inflammatory reactions that result in the appearance of
Malassezia furfur that are in a stable balance and form the skin imperfections such as acne. To this end, we have
resident skin flora. The homeostasis of this ecosystem is of developed an extract purified from Filipendula ulmaria
fundamental importance since it plays a barrier role by (meadowsweet) that is rich in phenolic acids. Tested at 1 %on
limiting the invasion and growth of pathogenic bacteria on
the skin surface. An internal or external change in the skin
environment, a transitory lack of hygiene, a change in
hormone status or hyperseborrhea can upset this balance at
any time and enable the proliferation of saprophytic skin
microorganisms or contamination by pathogens.
Hyperseborrhea causes retention lesions such as open
comedos and closed microcysts that can be transformed into
papulae, pustules or nodules in the case of an inflammatory
reaction caused by abnormal bacterial proliferation. These
skin disorders are particularly pronounced between the ages
of 12 and 25 but nonetheless affect all ages and cause oily
skin accompanied by unsightly imperfections that are difficult
to camouflage and live with. The skin combats microbial
infections with its natural defense system. Keratinocytes
produce and secrete a large number of peptides with direct
human keratinocytes, the F. ulmaria extract stimulated the
natural defense functions of the skin by boosting the synthesis
of cathelicidins by 130%. In addition, when tested in vivo at
4%, the F. ulmaria extract significantly reduced the lipid
index by 12% in 71 %of volunteers after 28 days of twice-
daily treatment The F. ulmaria extract stimulates the natural
defense functions of the skin, preventing the proliferation of
bacteria on the skin surface and thereby limiting
complications from acne: The number of spots and their total
occupied surface were significantly reduced by -10% and -
12%, respectively. Finally, dermatological evaluation after
28 days of twice-daily use showed the capacity of the F.
ulmaria extract to significantly improve the quality of skin
prone to acne: The homogeneity of skin grain was improved
(+21%), the number of inflammatory lesions reduced (-20%)
and the infiltration oflesions decreased (-22%).
Influencing the Equilibrium of the Cutaneous Ecosystem to and indirect antimicrobial activity (cathelicidins, □-
Improve the Properties of Skin Prone to Acne
Catherine Lenaers, David Brunet, Katia Ladegaillerie,
Magalie Pinet, Brigitte Closs R&D Department, SILAB,
BP213, 19108 Brive Cedex, France
defensins). These natural antimicrobial peptides limit the
proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and fungi such as
Staphylococcus aureus or Candida albicans and can also
induce an indirect immune response. They are indispensable
for the homeostasis of the cutaneous ecosystem and are over-
expressed by keratinocytes in response to an inflammatory
stimulus or an infection. When these natural defenses are
The skin is colonized by a variety of microorganisms such as disturbed or overwhelmed, they must be stimulated to limit
Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and the inflammatory reactions that result in the appearance of
Malassezia furfur that are in a stable balance and form the skin imperfections such as acne. To this end, we have
resident skin flora. The homeostasis of this ecosystem is of developed an extract purified from Filipendula ulmaria
fundamental importance since it plays a barrier role by (meadowsweet) that is rich in phenolic acids. Tested at 1 %on
limiting the invasion and growth of pathogenic bacteria on
the skin surface. An internal or external change in the skin
environment, a transitory lack of hygiene, a change in
hormone status or hyperseborrhea can upset this balance at
any time and enable the proliferation of saprophytic skin
microorganisms or contamination by pathogens.
Hyperseborrhea causes retention lesions such as open
comedos and closed microcysts that can be transformed into
papulae, pustules or nodules in the case of an inflammatory
reaction caused by abnormal bacterial proliferation. These
skin disorders are particularly pronounced between the ages
of 12 and 25 but nonetheless affect all ages and cause oily
skin accompanied by unsightly imperfections that are difficult
to camouflage and live with. The skin combats microbial
infections with its natural defense system. Keratinocytes
produce and secrete a large number of peptides with direct
human keratinocytes, the F. ulmaria extract stimulated the
natural defense functions of the skin by boosting the synthesis
of cathelicidins by 130%. In addition, when tested in vivo at
4%, the F. ulmaria extract significantly reduced the lipid
index by 12% in 71 %of volunteers after 28 days of twice-
daily treatment The F. ulmaria extract stimulates the natural
defense functions of the skin, preventing the proliferation of
bacteria on the skin surface and thereby limiting
complications from acne: The number of spots and their total
occupied surface were significantly reduced by -10% and -
12%, respectively. Finally, dermatological evaluation after
28 days of twice-daily use showed the capacity of the F.
ulmaria extract to significantly improve the quality of skin
prone to acne: The homogeneity of skin grain was improved
(+21%), the number of inflammatory lesions reduced (-20%)
and the infiltration oflesions decreased (-22%).
