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J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 243 (May/June 2008) THE PERFECT SCENT: A YEAR IN SIDE THE PERFUME INDUSTRY IN PARIS AND NEW YORK, by Chandler Burr (Henry Holt, New York, 2007), 306 pp., $25. The Perfect Scent is a popular book writ ten by a professional journalist. Those seeking serious technical insights or sub stantive marketing strategies should look elsewhere. Chandler Burr, while an out sider, is an intelligent student of the fra grance industry, and he is a talented writer. Nevertheless, The Perfect Scent reads like an extended magazine article, enter taining and easily digested, but perhaps a little long for its actual content. Chandler Burr became involved in the fragrance world when he accidentally met Luca Turin, and the result was The Emperor of Scent, an account of Luca's experiences promoting the vibrational theory of odor. This book established Burr's industry cre dentials, and he subsequently became the first perfume critic for The New York Times. He is familiar with the high end of the fashion and fragrance business in New York and Paris, and his Times role keeps him abreast of the latest fine fragrance trends. The subject of The Perfect Scent is a year inside the perfume industry in New York and Paris following the development of two scents: one by actress Sarah Jessica Parker that became Lovely the other Un Book Revie"\"\' Jardin Sur Le Nil by French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, designed to capture the essence of a garden on the Nile. The book considers the creation of the fra grances from a business and perfumery prospective, interweaving the two stories. The Paris story involves the process of Hermes' installing Ellena as an in-house perfumer to become more competitive with other established design houses. The New York story covers the licensing of the Sarah Jessica Parker celebrity image by Coty, with Parker's very real involvement in every phase of the process. There are many interesting stories and insights in the book, but also too much padding. One example: "It is also a block from the Hotel Crillon on the place de la Concorde and the relentlessly, aggressively hip Buddha Bar, a restaurant that finds itself, perhaps to its surprise, increasingly barricaded behind the elaborate security measures implemented by the American Embassy directly on the other side of the rue Boissy d'Anglas." The book also misspells "linalool" more than once, a trivial criticism but indicative of the fact that this is not a scientific trea tise. As light recreational reading, this book has some value. To industry professionals it may be too short on content to justify reading 300 pages to uncover the nug gets.-STEVE HERMAN-J&E Sozio 243
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