]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 245-247 (May/June 2008) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 42, No. 1, 2008* Self-aggregates of Hydrophobic Phospholipid Polymer as a one treated with PMS was hydrophobic, like healthy hair. Novel Material in Hair Treatment PMS treatment has decreased the surface friction and Nobuyuki Yamamoto•,**, Hiroki Fukui*, Tada-aki Yamagishi**, Yoshiaki Nakamoto** *Section II, Tsukuba Corporate Research Laboratory, Life Science Products Division, NOF Corporation, 5-10, Tokodai, Tsukuba 300-2635, Japan **Graduate School of Natural Science and Technology, Kanazawa University, Kakuma-machi, Kanazawa 920-1192, Japan In this study, a hydrophobic phospholipid polymer nano­ dispersion was formed by self-aggregating poly(2- methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-co-stearyl methacrylate) (PMS). Self-aggregation was carried out by diluting a PMS/polyol solution with hot water. The zeta potential of the PMS particles was changed by complexation with anionic or cationic surfactants, the addition of which did not affect the average diameter of the PMS particles, which was always less than 50 nm. The cationized PMS nano-dispersion was used for treating artificially damaged hair. An X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic analysis showed uniform adsorption of the PMS onto the surface of the hair specimens. The PMS nano-dispersion was not only adsorbed on the surface but also permeated into the hair, as shown by a fluorescence microscopic observation of the damaged hair treated with the PMS nano-dispersion that also contained Nile Red. From a scanning electron microscope observation, the PMS was also found to suppress the lift-ups of the hair cuticle. The surface of damaged hair was hydrophilic, whereas the electrostatic decay of damaged hair, and also prevented the discoloration of colored hair. Overview of Cosmetic Dermatological Approach for Photoaging Yoko Funasaka Division of Dermatology, Kobe University Graduate School of Medicine, 7-5-1, Kusunoki-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe 650-0017, Japan Photoaging could be induced by accumulated DNA damage on skin cells. Photoaged skin has such characteristics as a nodular leathery surface with fine and coarse wrinkles, blotches and yellowing, dryness, and teleangiectasia, and finally skin cancer formation. For this condition, chemical peeling, iontophoresis, laser and phototherapy are used with some improvement, especially in wrinkles and pigmentary uniformity. Now the mechanisms of these treatments on photoaging have been studied. Glycolic acid may act on skin cells via keratinocytes and activate the cytokine network, which results in the remodeling of tissue construct and elimination of pigment. Heat generated by non-ablative laser or phototherapy might induce heat shock proteins which induce new collagen fonnation, and eliminate oxidized abnormal materials. This type of research is expected to disclose the cellular and molecular mechanisms of photoaging, and to lead to the establishment of further effective photoaging treatment. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 245

246 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Decrease in the Skin Transparency Induced by Protein Carbonylation in the Stratum Comeum lchiro lwai, Tomohiro Kuwahara, Tetsuji Hirao standard by using an ultrasonic bath. The centrifuged and filtrated methanol extracts were analyzed by GC on an InertCap 624 capillary column. The recoveries of DEG from toothpaste fortified at the levels of 0.1, 0.5 and 1.0%, SHISEIDO Life Science Research Center, 2-2-1, were 103.6, 99.9, 99.4%, respectively. The quantitation Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan limit of DEG in toothpaste was 0.05 %. The proposed It has been reported in recent years that the carbonyl modification of protein plays a part in various diseases. The existence of the protein carbonylation in the stratum comeum also came to be known in the last few years, but the effect on the properties of the stratum comeum including the skin appearance was not clarified. In this study, we examined the influence of protein carbonylation in the stratum comeum to provide helpful information for skin care products focusing on transparency of the stratum corneum. Firstly, we developed a method to assess the protein carbonylation level numerically by the image analysis of tape-stripped stratum corneum reacted with a fluorescent hydrazide. The level of stratum comeum carbonylation of the sun-exposed site (face) was higher than that of unexposed site (upper arm), and the surface method could be applied to other cosmetics on the market without any interference. By using this method, DEG was detected the presence in 2 out of IO toothpaste samples set to the hotel. This analytical method should be useful for quality control for manufacturers and importers of cosmetics. White Blood Cell Fractions, Oxidation Index and Level of Stress in Acne Patients and Healthy Volunteers Motohiko Takahashi*, Mika Tan*, Satoshi Kimura*, Hiroshi Ikeno** *R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, INC., 27- 1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan **Ikeno Clinic, Dermatology & Dennatological Surgery, l-14-4-3F, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061, part of the stratum comeum showed a higher level of Japan carbonylation compared with the deeper layer. Stratum corneum carbonylation was induced by in vitro UV irradiation. In addition, it was shown that the skin transparency score was significantly low in the woman with high level of protein carbonylation in the stratum comeum of the cheek. An experimentally carbonylated stratum corneum sheet in vitro became opaque. Among the amino acids investigated, L-lysine was the most effective to prevent carbonylation of the stratum comeum ex vivo. Moreover, L-lysine inhibited the decrease in the skin transparency caused by experimental carbonylation of the stratum comeum in the human skin. These results suggest that preventing the carbonylation of the stratum corneum due to adverse effects from the environment by I-lysine could improve the skin transparency, Determination of Diethylene Glycol in Toothpaste Mitsuko Kamimura, Kumiko Mizuno, Koichi Kuromi, Chie Ueno, Hiroyuki Kurita, Kazuhiro Owada, Masatoshi Yamamoto Department of Drug and Food Science, Shizuoka Institute of Environment and Hygiene, 4-27-2, Kita-Ando, Aoi-ku, Shizuoka 420-8637, Japan A rapid and simple method using gas chromatography (GC) for the determination of diethylene glycol (DEG) in toothpaste was developed. DEG in toothpaste was extracted with methanol containing 1,4-butanediol as the internal In recent years, a lot of people have suffered physical and mental stress. It makes sympathetic nerves dominant, and autonomic nerves unbalanced. Disruption of the balance in autonomic nerves leads to the increase of granulocyte, and causes various undesirable physical conditions. We investigated the relationship between stress and acne in order to confirm the influence of stress on skin conditions. The degree of subjective stress, and the ratio of neutrophils or lymphocytes in leukocytes were measured in acne patients and healthy volunteers. As it is suggested that the increase of the neutrophil ratio by stress makes reactive oxygen, and raises the degree of oxidation in the blood, we also measured the antioxidant action and the degree of oxidative stress by FRAS4. Additionally, the lifestyle characteristics in each group was investigated in order to confirm the relationship with stress by a questionnaire survey. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, acne patients find themselves readily suffering from acne anytime. Compared with healthy volunteers, acne patients have more undesirable lifestyles and higher stress degrees than healthy volunteers. Further, the Biological Antioxidant Potential (BAP), an antioxidant index measured in acne patients, was significantly lower (p0.0001) than that of healthy volunteers. The acne patients had a higher ratio of neutrophils and a lower ratio of lymphocytes compared to the healthy volunteers. Among the acne patients, the neutrophil ratio was higher in those with high stress (p0.05). These results suggest that acne patients easily feel