DETERMINATION OF RETINOIDS IN COSMETICS 497 Table II Sample Descriptions Product type Labeled ingredient Anti-oxidant or stabilizer Sunscreen included or recommended Product use warning Anti-wrinkle facial serum RP Isostearic acid Vitamin E EDTA Not listed Not listed Wrinkle-corrector cream RL BHT Apply morning or evening Not listed Line defense complex RL Not listed Use SPF 15 daily Yes Liquid makeup Not listed Not listed SPF 20 Yes Anti-wrinkle cream RP Vitamin E Not listed Not listed Anti-cellulite treatment cream RL BHT EDTA Not listed Yes Anti-wrinkle cream RL EDTA Vitamin E BHT SPF 15 Yes Nightly renewal cream RL Vitamin C BHT EDTA Night-time use Yes Line eliminator RL Vitamins C and E BHT EDTA Night-time use only Yes Renew body serum RP EDTA Not listed Not listed Refi ning night cream RL BHT EDTA Use sunscreen Yes Wrinkle corrector RL Not listed Not listed Not listed Day cream RP BHT Vitamin E EDTA SPF 20 Yes Anti-wrinkle treatment cream RL Vitamin E EDTA BHT Use sunscreen Not listed Anti-wrinkle night complex RL Vitamin E EDTA Use sunscreen Yes Skin-refi ning lotion RL EDTA Not listed Yes Skin-whitening serum RL EDTA Vitamins E and C BHT Use nightly Yes Anti-wrinkle cream RL Vitamin C BHT EDTA Use nightly Not listed Anti-wrinkle cream RL/RP Vitamin E EDTA SPF 20 Yes Wrinkle treatment RL EDTA BHT Vitamins C and E Use nightly Not listed Anti-age complex RL Vitamin E BHT EDTA Nightly use Yes Smoothing serum RL Not listed Nightly use Yes Moisturizer RL/RP Vitamins E and C EDTA Nightly use Yes Clean complex RL/RP EDTA Use sunscreen Yes (Continued)

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 498 Table III Survey Results for Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate Isomers (in μg/g)a Sample no. Retinol all-trans- Retinol Retinyl palmitate 9-cis-b 11-cis-b 13-cis- all-trans- 1 139 ND 20 10 14984 2 1726 ND ND 347 ND 3 3370 15 28 31 ND 4c ND ND ND ND 563 5 ND ND ND ND 502 6 377 10 ND 58 ND 7c 1503 ND ND ND ND 8 3103 10 ND ND ND 9 3242 22 ND ND ND 10 10 ND ND ND 912 11 13949 95 ND 175 ND 12 1819 70 ND 103 ND 13c ND ND ND ND 7982 14 206 10 11 13 ND 15 6021 19 ND ND ND 16 410 10 10 10 ND 17 1681 10 ND 10 ND 18 3565 53 10 58 ND 19c ND ND ND ND 6565 20 500 10 ND 10 ND 21 5634 30 10 ND ND 22 2364 39 ND 180 ND 23 1503 46 10 41 10 24 10 10 10 10 260 25 62 ND ND 10 4160 26 21817 133 ND 177 15 27 718 17 10 155 ND 28d 2559 25 10 41 178 29 59 26 ND ND 34 ND = Not detected, i.e., below level of detection (0.6 μg/g). a 9-cis-, 13-cis-, and all-trans-retinoic acid were not detected in any of the samples. b Estimated concentrations based on calibration curve for all-trans-retinol. c Product classifi ed as both a cosmetic and a drug due to cosmetic and sunscreen claims. d Product may be classifi ed as both a cosmetic and a drug due to cosmetic and apparent anti-acne claims. Table II (Continued) Sample Descriptions Product type Labeled ingredient Anti-oxidant or stabilizer Sunscreen included or recommended Product use warning Skin care complex RP/RL Vitamin E EDTA Not listed Yes Anti-aging cream RL Vitamins E and C BHT EDTA Nightly use Not listed Skin transformation serum RL/RP Vitamin E Not listed Not listed Anti-acne rejuvenating cream RL EDTA Nightly use Yes Skin brightener RP/RL Vitamin E Use morning or evening Not listed