EFFECT OF ANTEISO-BRANCH MOIETY OF 18-MEA 517 CONCLUSIONS The following conclusions are based on the fi ndings reported in this paper: 1. The surface of alkaline-color-treated weathered hair treated with 18-MEA/SPDA complex can maintain its hydrophobicity even after one instance of shampooing with a plain shampoo, while the hair treated with n-HEA/SPDA or 19-MEA/SPDA complex cannot create a hydrophobic surface. The results indicate that the anteiso-branch moiety of 18-MEA is vital for providing persistent hydrophobicity to alkaline-color-treated weathered hair. 2. Characterization of adsorbed layers of 18-MEA/SPDA on a mica surface, as a possible hydrophilic surface model, was performed using AFM, although it might be open to question whether these surfaces behave differently due to the different compositions of these surfaces. The results reveal that the mechanism of the sustainable hydrophobicity of the hair surfaces generated by the anteiso-branch moiety of 18-MEA is that the anteiso- branch moiety of 18-MEA in 18-MEA/SPDA can produce higher fl uidity to the upper region of the 18-MEA/SPDA layer compared to the straight chain of n-HEA in n-HEA/ SPDA or the iso-branch moiety of 19-MEA in 19-MEA/SPDA. Table II Formulation of Conditioners 1 2 3 4 5 6 (control) Stearoxypropyldimethylamine 2 — — — — 2 Dimethylaminopropylstearamide — 2 — — — — Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride — — 2 — — — Docosyldimethylamine — — — 2 — — Stearoxyhydroxypropyldimethelamine — — — — 2 — Benzyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Stearyl alcohol 3 3 3 3 3 3 18-MEA 1 1 1 1 1 — Lactic acid 0.3 0.3 — 0.3 0.3 0.6 Water Balance APPENDIX ERRATUM A previous paper (14) by the present authors [H. Tanamachi et al., Deposition of 18-MEA onto alkaline-color-treated weathered hair to form a persistent hydrophobicity, J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 31–44 (2009)] contained an incorrect representation of Table II. The corrected table is reprinted below: REFERENCES (1) D. J. Evans, J. D. Leeder, J. A. Rippon, and D. E. Rivett, Separation and analysis of the surface lipids of the wool fi ber, Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf., Tokyo, Japan, I, 135–142 (1985). (2) P. W. Wertz and D. T. Dowing, Integral lipids of human hair, Lipids, 23, 878–881 (1988). (3) P. W. Wertz and D. T. Dowing, Integral lipids of mammalian hair, Comp. Biochem. Physiol., 92B, 759– 761 (1989).
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 518 (4) A. P. Negri, H. J. Cornell, and D. E. Rivett, The nature of covalently bound fatty acids in wool fi bers, Aust. J. Agric. Res., 42, 1285–1292 (1991). (5) A. P. Negri, H. J. Cornell, and D. E. Rivett, Effects of proceeding on the bound and free fatty acid levels in wool, Text. Res. J., 62, 381–387 (1992). (6) S. Naito, M. Ooshika, N. Yorimoto, and Y. Kuroda, The structure of bound lipids of human hair fi bers and its physical properties, Proc. 9th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf., Biella, Italy, I, 367–374 (1996). (7) D. J. Evans and M. Lanczki, Cleavage of integral surface lipids of wool by aminolysis, Textile Res. J., 67, 435–444 (1997). (8) U. Kalkbrenner, H. Koener, H. Hoecker, and D. E. Rivett, Studies on the composition of the wool cu- ticle, Proc. 8th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf., Christchurch, New Zealand, I, 398 (1990). (9) C. M. Carr, I. H. Leaver, and A. E. Hughes, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic study of the wool fi ber surface, Textile Res. J., 56, 457 (1986). (10) S. Breakspear, J. R. Smith, and G. Luengo, Effect of the covalently linked fatty acid 18-MEA on the nanotribology of hair’s outermost surface, J. Struct. Biol., 149, 235–242 (2005). (11) C. A. Torre, B. Bhusham, J.-Z. Yang, and P. M. Torgerson, Nanotribological effects of silicone type, silicone deposition level, and surfactant type on human hair using atomic force microscopy, J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 37–56 (2006). (12) M. Yasuda, J. Hair Sci., 95, 7–12 (2004). (13) M. L. Tate, Y. K. Kamath, S. B. Ruetsch, and H.-D. Weigmann, Quantifi cation and prevention of hair damage, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 347–371 (1993). (14) H. Tanamachi, S. Inoue, N. Tanji, H. Tsujimura, M. Oguri, M. Ishita, S. Tokunaga, and F. Sazanami, Deposition of 18-MEA onto alkaline-color-treated weathered hair to form a persistent hydrophobicity, J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 31–44 (2009). (15) S. Inoue, N. Tanji, T. Habe, M. Okamoto, M. Oguri, H. Tsujimura, H. Tanamachi, and S. Tokunaga, Mechanism for generation of a persistent hydrophobic hair surface by 18-MEA/SPDA, Proceedings of 25th IFSCC Congress, 2008. (16) Kao Corporation patents, JP1925274, EP0483689, US5476649. (17) Kao Corporation patent, US6576794 B2. (18) C. Ton-That, A. G. Shard, and R. H. Bradley, Thickness of spin-cast polymer thin fi lms determined by angle-resolved XPS and AFM tip-scratch methods, Langmuir, 16, 2281–2284 (2000). (19) D. Devecchio, P. Schmutz, and G. Frankel, A new approach for the study of chemical mechanical polish- ing, Electrochem. Solid State Lett., 3, 90–92 (2000). (20) P. Schmutz and G. S. Frankel, Infl uence of dichromate ions on corrosion of pure aluminum and AA2024-T3 in NaCl solution studied by AFM scratching, J. Electronchem. Soc., 146, 4461–4472 (1999). (21) P. Leblanc and G. S. Frankel, A study of corrosion and pitting initiation of AA2024-T3 using atomic force microscopy, J. Electronchem. Soc., 149, B239–247 (2002). (22) L. N. Jones and D. E. Rivett, The role of 18-methyleicosanic acid in the structure and formation of mammalian hair fi bre, Micron, 28, 469–485 (1997). (23) J. A. Swift, Human hair cuticle: Biologically conspired to the owner’s advantage, J. Cosmet. Sci., 50, 23–47 (1999). (24) S. Naito, “Structure of Keratin Fibers and Its Relation to Chemical and Physical Properties,” Doctoral Thesis of Tokyo Institute of Technology, p. 31 (1995).
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)